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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2000 zx3 with 2l zetec and have the following mods. Ford racing cnc ported head, comp cams stage 2 cams, aem adjustable cam gears, shorty intake tube, shorty header (may change to svt header), full 2.25" exhaust with low restriction cat and muffler, 65mm throttle body and ported intake, and tuning. I went from a stock 97 WHP to a stunning 111whp as measured on a dynojet dyno. This is a disappointing gain and expected far more. I understand numbers are different on a mustang dyno, but is irrevelent as I'm measuring overall gain here. I'm hoping for around 150-160 WHP as this is a group 2 rally car! Any input is hugely appreciated. What I'm thinking is this, shaved head (40 thou?), svt header, and I've been investigating a multi throttle body setup from Europe ( they seem to be way ahead getting power from these zetecs, and their kits come with ecu and tuning software, basemaps etc).
 

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go with SVT header, SVT intake, and SVT head oor shave your heal like 60-70ths.
Europe uses the shaved head stock.

I have a buddie trying to sell his SVT intake mani setup. and go with stage 3 cams

Contact sobe-it I beleive he just pulled like a 189WHP outta one of these zetecs. non turboed
 

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I <3 my SVT
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First off, is your car an automatic or manual?

Why do you have both gears at -5? you want overlap, meaning advancing intake and retarding exhaust. Retarding intake means that the intake valves are closed longer during the intake stroke.

It sounds like you need an svt intake with hi flow filter, svt header, NO cat, 2.5-3" exhaust, flex included. That would net you a healthy gain. Bigger cams will certainly help. I'd do crower 2's or comp 3's.

For the cylinder head, do you have the oversized valves/ high lift springs? compression will certainly help, but lets get the current setup making power and see where you land.

How many miles are on the bottom end?

Matt
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Posted via FF Mobile Regardless of what you need to add you should be making way more power then that, and again regardless if its an automatic. What tune do you have? Theres gotta be something up with the tuning thats killing your power. What octane gas are you running? 91 or 87? What intake do you have, all you said was short tube....maybe you need to let your engine breath better, maybe a CAI or FSwerks intake.
 

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I <3 my SVT
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I agree, I'm guessing its the combination of the tuning, intake, header and cat back small diameter exhaust. The fr head alone should have far exceeded the gains you have now.

However, he probably doesn't want a full cold air intake on a rally car. I think they deliberately design the course to go through mud, snow and water. svt intake or volant will still keep filter in the engine bay, with no heat soak and little to no chance of hydrolock.

Matt
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R.I.P Kona
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Well getting rid of shorty header and replacing with SVT will improve flow dramatically. Can you run an orp instead of a hi flow cat? As for heads if you swapped to the SVT head(if rules allow) you'd be making around 150+ whp easy. Now if you p&p'd the svt head and added bigger valves and changed cams you'd gain more. X2 on a 2.5"-3" will help breathing but may not be needed if you don't get into and stay in the upper rpm range. CAI would be better than a short ram. Better tune with datalogging to maximize it all.
 

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Unless you adjusted the cam gears on a dyno then you could be down 20+HP just with the cam gear adjustment alone

You need a tune on that car before you try WOT or you could loose the engine

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
whoa, thread ran away from me there...read my post guys. Aside from the shorty header which id like to change to an svt or long-tube race header the exhaust is a full 2.25" all the way which is good for waaay more power than im aiming for anyway. I have a high-flow cat because i have to according to the rules. The car has been tuned on the dyno. We didnt mess with the cam timing much. Most of the info in this regard says -5 degrees on both (didnt make much sense to me cause that doesnt allow the valves to be open any longer, just later. Can't seem to find any reliable info on that. Intake is a ported early 2000 stock intake. Shorty headers although not the best must be a great deal better than the stock manifold. I have identified underhood heat may be an issue because of the skid plate. Will probably install a couple of scoops on the hood, one to get cold air in and one to vent it out.
 

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Id really look at the cam timing! usually straight up 0,0 yields pretty decent results!

Check compression because you should be in the 130-140whp range. Also, what altitude are you at?
 

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Shot me 3 deer!!!
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if you are a newb to rally, stay where your at, don't add more power, add more money to your brakes/suspension. there is a reason poeple in the vw rabbits win all the time. and they have 85 whp. i've rallied a bit, (yes, a group 2 car) and i get smoked by people who have a much slower car. don't add power, add the driver mod!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I am the guy beating others with low power. I regularly get lower times than guys in AWD turbo'd Sti's. I'm held back by the car.
 

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Shot me 3 deer!!!
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you may want to check motor health. cause that does seem low. you can deck the head about .050" run some aggressive cams and you will get a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Compression checked recently shows 152 psi across all cylinders. I'll be decking the head and maybe svt pistons/rods. I'm thinking around .40 decking. Lots off chatter about what a good shave would be and most seems to be that 40 thou is probably the best.
 

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i went alot farther. i had 164 whp in my NA build. you don't have the most aggressive cams, so you can deck pretty good. don't waste your time on the SVT pistons. if you're going to tear into the block, might as well do it right and go big or go home w/ 12.5:1 CR pistons. the SVT pistons won't do you anything more than what a decking of the head will do. if ur gonna run RA, you can run 116 as long as its not oxygenated. so might wanna make the best of that.

if you want to maximize power NA, I can help for sure. i've done that route and i've had one of the higher NA powered foci out there. (may it RIP, lol)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
By all means help, I'm looking for 150-170 NA I'll probably do a build this winter. If you have a step by step list of addons and methods you can pm me and I can get to work. I have a line on a couple of low mileage blocks and can build from there.
 

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if u want to do a build from the ground up, it should be like this.

FR head, or overported proven head like my old one and decked appropriately
Crower stage 3 cams,
valvetrain to match
cam gears
SVT header setup, egr delete
ORP or HFC
FR IM and TB
CAI such as volant (none that go by the front bumper)
ram air
3.0" exhaust all the way back.

this w/ an aggressive tune will net you between 150-165 whp NA on 93, seeing as you can run 116, you would be in the mid t0 upper 170's. if you bump compression w/ a fully built bottom end, maybe around 180+
 

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R.I.P Kona
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All the above or for a bit less $ you can swap over a stock SVT head and get.the same power and could go to 200 instead of topping out at 180ish. Cold air is cold air no matter where it comes in. Just a matter of flow meeting/exceeding demand. Lower bumper cai's just have to be careful of hydrlocking. Ram air only " sorta" helps with large intake area going to sealed chamber housing filter element. Also need to go from larger diameter to smaller diameter piping to help increase air velocity. That being said the "ram air" effect is only beneficial at high speeds above 60+ mph. Tune, tune, tune.
 
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