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Discussion Starter #1
Guys please be patient and read all of my long post.

02 focus wgn se zetec 16v 2.0l, 120km auto
Car is stock
Driving style, gentle, car load two persons about 360lb
No CEL, no DTC

Problems:
Low mpg - 20 mpg 50/50 city/hwy.(100 mls hgwy test drive doing 65 and it did28mpg)
Hesitation on acceleration, unresponsive power.
Tried to burn tires, it can’t do it at all, not even if you are charging it by keeping a foot on the brake and increase the engine rev, it needs to take its sweet long time.

If I tap the gas faster it doesn’t go in fact acts almost like an engine brake, then if I lift my foot it goes, if I floor it hesitates couple of seconds then it goes like a rocket

Engine vibrates at idle and at higher rpm, you can feel it through the body, at idle mirrors are doing like a Harley.
Idle rpm fluctuate around 760-800 without ac

Car has new timing belt, new pulley, new accessories belt and pulley
New thermostat and new thermostat housing
New water pump
New brakes
New tires falken 912 standard size inflated at 36psi
4 wheel alignment done
New torque motor mount

New oem air filter
New fuel filter
Used an in tank injector cleaner
Cleaned the maf sensor
No vacuum leaks
New spark wires
New motorcraft oem spark plugs
Had the fuel pump gauged and does ok
New synthetic oil
Checked the dpfe sensor and egr valve and they work properly
Car passed emission test
Checked the spark plugs after 300mls and they are clean and dry
The transmission shifts in the speed ranges specified.
Did a transmission stall test and the engine revs up to 2400 rpm, it never dies but doesn’t go higher then 2500 rpm (with the foot on the brake and the transmission in drive), it acts like the electronic limiter cuts the gas

Any pertinent help appreciated
If anybody knows a good mechanical shop in Houston let me know.
 

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Have you thought about checking the brakes?

Also, what you've read about increasing tire pressure to increase fuel economy is slightly true, however, as far as the odometer goes- it will appear to do nothing or decrease the fuel economy. The reason is that your vehicle will be traveling sightly further than the odometer is reading. Over inflating the tires is a minimal way to increase fuel economy anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
did checked the brakes- no problem

I'm thinking injectors but they suppose to be good for 150k
maybe the coil pack but my spark plugs looked ok
maybe the torque convertor but that doesn't explain the engine vibration

I wonder if the fuel pump doesn't output the correct psi will the pcm compensate by opening the injectors longer?

does anybody knows if a stall test should actualy stop the engine at the specified rpm ( I think is just a little over 2400rpm for the zetec)

any other good ideea how to test the torque convertor's proper operation?
 

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how much fuel injector clean did you put in the tank? My buddy f-ed up his truck by putting to much in his and it never ran right after that.
 

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I'd think a bad coil would throw DTC's like the O2 sensor was malfunctioning- too rich bank 1 etc.

You had this problem before you changed plugs, air filter, and things so I'd assume that the gap is correct. I have noticed that pre-gapped plugs are sometimes not gapped correctly.

A fuel pump that was causing a running problem like your describing would be going out very soon, and would also throw codes in the lean direction.

If the injectors were bad, they would be most likely to leak, which means you'd also get a rich code, and likely misfire codes also. Any damage to the injector seals would cause a misfire- it's unlikely in any case. I don't think I've ever seen a broken injector seal- though it is possible.


Have you done a visual inspection of the timing belt? The best way to do this is to remove the upper timing cover. I use a Sharpie to mark the center of all the belt I can see, then bump the engine with the starter to move the timing belt. Look for exposed cotton webbing, any cotton protruding from the rubber, and look at the teeth on the belt. You should be able to twist the belt between the two cam gears to look at the bottom of the belt where the teeth are. Look for missing ribs or ribs that have been rubbed to near gone. Use the mark to make sure you've looked at all the belt. At 120k, you're nearing both fuel pump and timing belt end of lifetime.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I mentioned that the timing belt is new, done by a Ford dealer

I used a smal bottle of fuel system cleaner for a full tank, the car was acting like this before the fuel treatment

in fact was acting worst but fuel filter and new sparks and new wires helped from 15 mpg to 20 mpg
 

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OK, time to do a compression test. Compression testers are inexpensive. That's one thought.

The only other thing I can think of is exhaust pressure. It could be that the cat is clogged. The car would likely still pass emissions, but it would run terribly. See if the cat glows red after driving around the block a few times. Exhaust pressure should be enough to push your foot off the pipe if you try to hold it over the end. You might be able to stall the car while it idles, but it should be difficult to do. If you can easily stall the car with your foot over the exhaust pipe- then something is wrong. It could be the cat, or the internal parts of the muffler.

You've already replaced a lot of parts that generally cause these kinds of problems. But I don't see where you've replaced the O2 sensors. Those do go bad, and if I were you I'd get the OEM replacement.

I really can't guess further than that. I generally test things to figure it out, and this problem is a bugger to solve from a distance.
 

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I'd be very cautious of the "cleaned" MAF sensor. That can F stuff up pretty easily.
If you can't breath properly how well do you respond....at any RPM. Just a thought.
Can you get a video of what's happening? get a shot of it idling then rev it w/out load, then get some driving it.

off topic.....whynotthinkwhynot: my buddy had a aerostar, we called it the ghettovan. OMG we surprised the $hit out of ppl when we roasted em w/ that thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you guys

I'll check the cat convertor
I'll try to make a video
O2 sensor should get an error code, shouldn't it?
the exhaust flow looked normal and clean to me but I'd look in to it
 

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Complete failure, no data reading, or failure of the heat circuit- yes.

Aged O2 sensors merely read the exhaust as being leaner than it is. These work off an electrochemical reaction to produce voltage up to 1v. The more voltage, the less oxygen in the exhaust, and the leaner the mixture. As the sensor gets old, it gradually produces less voltage, giving the computer the signal that it is running leaner than it actually is. You should be able to smell some fuel, and see sooty exhaust (use your hand or some paper to be sure). You'll likely have to replace both sensors, but I would start with the sensor closest to the exhaust manifold.
 

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You don't have to replace the 2nd O2 sensor unless you are getting the code for it. The 2nd O2 doesn't do anything with regards to fuel/air mixture. It is used to look for a functioning cat only. The ECU takes a look at the output of the 2nd O2 sensor and checks for rapid crossing points (going from high to low and low to high states) because of the cat the 2nd O2 shouldn't have very many of these and if it detects them then it throws the code.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
took it for a spin tonight and checked if the cat convertor turns red or glows and is not doing so

I did couple of videos too, but need time to download them

anyway tranny in drive,wide open throttle all the time, from 0 to 60mls/h needs 13 sec
if cruising at 60mls/h and push the gas to the floor needs about 4 sec to reach 70mls/h
the hesitation is about 2 sec then goes
when shifts from second to third rpm reaches 6000
 

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So your saying fuel pumps life is about 120k? I have over 140k mi and I'm having the same problems. I've ruled out everything except the fuel pump it was replaced under warranty back in the day when they wre having problems for them. Last time I checked I was at 30psi 29psi or was it 39psi? I forget it was a while ago I do know that it was at the lower of the accepted limit for fule pressure and I have thrown codes for runnning lean. My car runs so lean that my headers glow. I have no exhaust restrictions. I bet it is my fuel pump. All weel another thing to check out.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Can anyone make a pertinent argument about the fuel pump?
Is a low pressure fuel pump going to increase the fuel consumption decreasing your average mpg?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
first video uploaded here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fpqzFm6Suso
you can see that if it is accelerated fast the engine hesitates, is loosing power for a moment almost like an engine brake, but if you do it slow revs ok.
I think that is either getting too much gas or not enough, but no codes are triggered and the car mpg is low like 20mpg so I'm inclined to think that I have leaking injectors, what do you guys think?
 

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Sounds like timing belt may be off by a tooth. I had a civic with the 1.5 that normally gets 31mpg no matter how I drove it and when I had my timing belt replaced they missed it by a tooth and it ran fine, revved fine, but when I would hit the gas it acted like nothing happened and all of a sudden jumped up in rpm's and would take off. I drove 100 miles in half a tank.(about half the normal mpg) Maybe just a coincidence but it wouldh't hurt to check.
 

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ok im curious about something that intake of his why does it differ from mine, mine has this weird boxy thing that hangs over the rocker cover..

(2001 Ford Focus Wagon SE Zetec)

as for the engine lag when you pop the throttle thats somewhat normal mine's been doin that since day 1 ( I do notice a little bit of an improvement though when I replaced my TPS/throttlebody do me a favor look at your tps and tell me if the body of the tps is as thick as the connector or is it slimmer then the connector.. I do know Ive seen some 02's with a TSB TPS that act up yet throw no cel codes)
if its the old one I will give you instructions on how to test the TPS
(2001 Ford Focus Wagon SE Zetec)

if the fuel pump was an issue miles per gallon wouldn't be effected.. when pumps start to fail and or lose pressure the "majority" of the time when you attempt a brake stand your engine will cut out/sputter

as for a brake stand Ive never attempted that (yet that is) but when I take off from a rear roll or stand still I can chirp the tires

check the forums ( search function) someone had a similar problem and he checked his timing himself with a gauge he printed ( basically a degree wheel) for the main the cams have locking clips that will set the cams in alignment when installing/replacing a timing belt ( Goes and finds the post himself and prints off a wheel of his own
 

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Can anyone make a pertinent argument about the fuel pump?
Is a low pressure fuel pump going to increase the fuel consumption decreasing your average mpg?
Theorizing here

Low fuel rail pressure (what the fuel pump actually reads to vary the duty cycle of the fuel pump, via voltage) should make the short term fuel trims longer (higher SRTFT, greater than 0) and also add to the long term fuel trims (LNGFT, greater than 0). Zero is basically the amount of compensation of the fuel injector has to do to hit the target Lambda, "+" being longer and "-" being shorter.
As rail pressure diminishes the injector has to stay open for a longer duration to inject the same amount of fuel, in doing so putting a greater demand on the fuel pump (read: higher voltages for a longer duration). Also fuel sprayed at a diminished pressure will not atomize as well as it higher counterpart. To add to that the fuel sprayed at the end of the open time can hit the incoming intake air as it is slowing, thus not mixing it properly and creating hot spots in the burn cycle (too large a variation from rich to lean, lack of homogeneity).

Short answer is yes the fuel pump sound like it could very well be to blame. One way to test it is to log the short term and long term trims and the duty cycle of the fuel pump. If the duty cycle is always high and the trims are always positive then poor pressure is more than likely to blame.


Just kinda thinking out loud here ...
 
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