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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok, first my focus was dieing at idle in park or netural. then it started dieing in drive at stop signs and stop lights. I changed out the fuel filter yesterday and put some gas treatment and extra strength stp fuel injector cleaner today with a full tank of gas. Right now i am sitting about a hair above a 1/2 tank of gas and it's dieing in park and netural but not drive. As soon as i got home i tried some different things. I turned on the head lights, a/c, and the heater to see if it would drain down the motor and kill it's self again. nope it just kept running. then not even after me turning it all off it was about 10 seconds later it died. what is goin on?

If you need to know i have a 2003 focus zts 2.0L DOHC auto with over drive. and it has about 108 to 109,000 miles on it.

Please help me!
 

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I have had the same problem i got a 2003 SE standard. Mine would go up and down at an idle finally it just would not idle at all. I replaced the Atoumatic Idle Control Valve AIC Valve) Their is a link here that tells you were it is here the link
http://web.archive.org/web/20070814095829/www.teamfocus.us/intakemanifold.htm
You can do this yourself from underneath the car i did its not that bad to do just need to be patient with it Make sure that you put the rubber o ring back in?
That solved some of the problem. The other was a collasped PVC Valve hose at the back of the engine close to the fire wall and wraps around to the drivers side to the valve in front the engine. Mine was collapsed right at the back thei or 3 parts to this hose the one i need came rright off the engine here is a link for it. Someone has pics in this link.
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28249&highlight=pvc+valve+hose
I also had a bad battery connection corroted i guess cleaned them up and that also improved it.
These part here in Canada are a lot more than you will pay for them in the states so i won't even bother with the costs.
Hope that helped you out some?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i went to auto zone and they put it on the machine to see if any codes was comming up. nope not one of them. i talked with them and they said that i could be the egr valve or something in the plugs or wires. the egr is goin to run me about 78 bucks. i hope this works. also they said that it could be the fuel pump. that will wait untill last since it's goin to run me about 180 bucks, and would be the most time consuming to replace. It's driving me nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ok, got my oil changed today and bought some plugs, wires, and air filter. driving home check engine light comes on. well i turn around where i am at and go to autozone and have them put it in the computer and see what codes it's pumping out. it says it's the o2 senser. well there goes 54 bucks. i bought it went home. put on the o2, plug wires (not plugs yet i lost my gapper.), and air filter. started it up still doing it. so i unhooked the battery to see if that would rest the engine light and it did. but still running like before. went to the gas station to buy a coke and what do ya know. check engine light back on. wow and how come i am not surprised? what could be goin on with this. i mean really. come on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok i ended up going back to autozone and they finaly did a print off on the troubleshooting code: P2195. this what the print out says. also i just changed my plugs cause i bought a gapper and it seems to make it better.

Definition
Lack of H02S-11 switch- Sensor indicates lean
Explanation
Ecm tried to correct for lean condition
ecm make a rich correction but was unable to bring with in specs
Probable Causes
1. Failed H02S sensor - I just changed it and upt a new one in.
2. Open or shirt circuit condition
3. Failed fuel pump or blocked fuel filter - i just changed the filter.
4. MAF sensor failure - i have the type i can't clean so i have to replace it
5. Vacuum leak


what do you think i should go with next?
 

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You can clean your MAF, look for the holes in the sides, use a Q-tip and alcohol carefully to wipe the resistors.

I don't think that's the problem. I think the problem is the IAC, and it's just closing off when it should be going to a lower flow state.

I would still do a very close inspection of every vacuum line, even to the point of removing each to see if the rubber was falling apart. Fortunately, there aren't that many compared to 80's cars.
 

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Welcome to FF !!![welcome]

I am 90% sure that this is a vaccuum leak.

Check underneathe the throttle body and in/around the PCV valve for the smaller vaccuum lines.

They tend to rest agains metal bits theat wear holes in them.
 

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You can clean your MAF, look for the holes in the sides, use a Q-tip and alcohol carefully to wipe the resistors.

I don't think that's the problem. I think the problem is the IAC, and it's just closing off when it should be going to a lower flow state.

I would still do a very close inspection of every vacuum line, even to the point of removing each to see if the rubber was falling apart. Fortunately, there aren't that many compared to 80's cars.
GREAT MINDS THINK ALIKE !!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
i tried looking over all of the vac lines. from what i could find (cause of it getting dark and a crappy flash light) was no holes from what i could feel, no cracks, they all looked good. but then i looked in the back of the motor. and i found this little hose looking thing. it's not rubber. it feels like a hard plastic or something like that.

 
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Mine was dying at idle and while driving along. Eventually got it to my Ford Dealer and it was confirmed, the COILPACK was cracked in 5 places. I had it replaced and the car drives sooo much better now, better mpg too.
 

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Posted via FF MobileFWIW - that plasticy thingy is a wire harness. ribbed plastic protector over wiring. Plenty of good suggestions from why.. and asp... alone. spend time checking, saves $ throwing parts at it.
 

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ok i ended up going back to autozone and they finaly did a print off on the troubleshooting code: P2195. this what the print out says. also i just changed my plugs cause i bought a gapper and it seems to make it better.

Definition
Lack of H02S-11 switch- Sensor indicates lean
Explanation
Ecm tried to correct for lean condition
ecm make a rich correction but was unable to bring with in specs
Probable Causes
1. Failed H02S sensor - I just changed it and upt a new one in.
2. Open or shirt circuit condition
3. Failed fuel pump or blocked fuel filter - i just changed the filter.
4. MAF sensor failure - i have the type i can't clean so i have to replace it
5. Vacuum leak


what do you think i should go with next?
6. Decent exhaust leak before the 02 sensor.

I just started having this issue (terrible idle, p2195, ect...) and i also just started hearing an exhaust leak (mainly at startup, it gets quiet after a few sec). Cant see or feel the leak do to header wrap, but can deffinetly hear it. Back to the mani-cat. Just another idea that everyone overlooked...
 
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