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So I ordered a new control arm due to a curb incident about a week ago? beside that fact, I didn't want to pay $450 at a shop so I decided to take matters into my own hands? which brought me to this issue...

Now taking off the control arm consists of 4 bolts; 3 hex heads and 1 T-50 Star bit. I had the car lifted and the 3 hex bolts off within minutes. When I went for the star bit it was instantly stripped. That POS did not want to budge. 1 grinder and a couple swings of the sledge hammer later I was victorious...but I was out a bolt.

My question to you FocusFanatics, where can I find another one of these bolts? I looked online and the only place I can find them is on ebay being sold out of the UK! I don't want to have to wait a month to drive my baby again. If you know any info on this matter please share your knowledge. Until then I will continue dwelling through the internet for my answer. Thanks
 

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Try a dealership (including the dealers featured here at Focus Fanatics), Fordparts.com, or a local auto parts yard. Any of those should be useful in finding that bolt.
 

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Just did this a couple months ago.

You need a hardware store that has a good selection of grade bolts like I have here. Pick a 7/16" normal hex head grade 8 bolt (6 lines in a circle on the head) in correct length and a grade 8 self locking nut for it. You MUST use the higher grade there! Grade 5 (3 lines) if you find it is not high enough. You may well need a 7/16" drill bit as well if the bolt does not slip or LIGHTLY tap through the hole. The drill bit opens the hole about .005" or virtually nothing so no harm done there. Mine barely cut anything at all there. Make sure the ball joint notch is lined up or out of the hole so you don't damage it while drilling, the notch is what holds the bolt in place and keeps control arm from falling off the joint in operation. Safety feature and you certainly don't want to mess with that. Install bolt from the front and the nut on back like before and torque that sucker way up tight, at least to the torque number there, I went slightly past it.

Bulletproof and you'll never break it I guarantee..............cost maybe $3 for the bolt/nut. Screw those overpriced understrength OEM parts............
 

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I personally prefer the other bolt I used, I went there when the stocker refused to take 40 ft.lbs. instead beginning to shear in two, stretched like made of bubblegum.
 

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I just replaced my lca's with moogs and they came with new pinch bolts in the bag. Good thing as I had to grind, then cut, then drill them out. That was after cutting the ball joint off to get better access to drill it.
 

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Just did this a couple months ago.

You need a hardware store that has a good selection of grade bolts like I have here. Pick a 7/16" normal hex head grade 8 bolt (6 lines in a circle on the head) in correct length and a grade 8 self locking nut for it. You MUST use the higher grade there! Grade 5 (3 lines) if you find it is not high enough. You may well need a 7/16" drill bit as well if the bolt does not slip or LIGHTLY tap through the hole. The drill bit opens the hole about .005" or virtually nothing so no harm done there. Mine barely cut anything at all there. Make sure the ball joint notch is lined up or out of the hole so you don't damage it while drilling, the notch is what holds the bolt in place and keeps control arm from falling off the joint in operation. Safety feature and you certainly don't want to mess with that. Install bolt from the front and the nut on back like before and torque that sucker way up tight, at least to the torque number there, I went slightly past it.

Bulletproof and you'll never break it I guarantee..............cost maybe $3 for the bolt/nut. Screw those overpriced understrength OEM parts............
Good idea, I will be doing this repair very soon and want to be prepared with some 7/16" bolt and nut combos, but what I'm wondering is what length 7/16" bolts will I need?
 

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You can get away with a bit longer than the OEM bolt, make sure at full wheel turn it clears striking anything.
 
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