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Discussion Starter #1
2006 Focus ZX4 SES 2.0L Automatic ABS

So my sons brakes were pulling to the left and shaking. So without looking he went and bought rotors, pads, etc., Yes I taught him to always look before buying but our children don't always listen to us do they. Well he went to put his brakes on tonight and found his pads and rotors looked great, but the wires on the harness where the wheel speed sensor plugs in to were broken. This is the plug where the ABS cord plugs in to, not the ABS wheel speed sensor itself which would be an easy fix to just go out and buy a new one. I am having a hard time finding this pigtail/harness/connector/terminal anywhere for sale. Would any of you have a link to one you would share?
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Moral of the story: Always look before buying parts.
 

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You can spend the typical $30 most connectors like that go for or replace it with something not the same that works as well for $2. You got a simple two wire connector there.

Uh, that likely will have zero effect on the brake pulling issues as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I haven't found anything that would plug right in to the abs sensor, I don't want to cut the sensor and add a matching pigtail if I don't have to. I was hoping for a matching pigtail to what is already there that would plug right in to the abs sensor.

What would be causing it to pull to the left and shake the steering wheel if the pads and rotors look good?
 

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Brake calipers could be sticking. Spin the wheel assembly and see if you notice a drag. Just because the brake rotors look good doesn't mean they are.
If the steering wheel shakes when hitting the brakes the number one issue is a uneven build up of brake pad material on the rotors. Most say the brake rotors are warped but they're not actually warped it's just pad material that has built up unevenly.

Junk yard would be the best for the connector you want. I can't find it either.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Brake calipers could be sticking. Spin the wheel assembly and see if you notice a drag. Just because the brake rotors look good doesn't mean they are.
If the steering wheel shakes when hitting the brakes the number one issue is a uneven build up of brake pad material on the rotors. Most say the brake rotors are warped but they're not actually warped it's just pad material that has built up unevenly.

Junk yard would be the best for the connector you want. I can't find it either.


I repaired the connector myself, i used a needle to pry back the little clip that holds the metal fitting, pulled it out from the back. I unbent the metal holding the rubber grommets. Then bent the wire back and forth until it broke off where it is crimped and soldered two new wires on top of the crimp and put the rubber pieces back on the wires and put it all back together. I only had white wire that size so I had to use a sharpie to color the black wire. I will add a dab of dielectric to the poles before I put the connectors together too. Not sure if I will use butt connectors or solders the pigtail back to the harness.

I will help him install the new rotors and pads as well as clean up and lubricate the places where the pads slide on. I will report back when we have it all done. I found a really nice guide on doing the brakes and rotors and thought I might share it too 2005-2007 Ford Focus Front Brake & Rotors Replacement




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This is cool stuff @Digital Dad!!

Did you have to replace the black clip that snugs onto the back of the light grey ABS connector that secures the ABS connector to the inner fender well?

If so, where did you find a new one of those new black clips?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This is cool stuff @Digital Dad!!

Did you have to replace the black clip that snugs onto the back of the light grey ABS connector that secures the ABS connector to the inner fender well?

If so, where did you find a new one of those new black clips?
No the black clip was still there when I put it back on today. The ABS light went off for the first time since he bought the car.

We did all the basic troubleshooting steps, jacked up the car, put it on stands and tried to wiggle the tire right to left then up and down, the right tire did move right to left just ever so lightly 1/8" maybe?(tie rod?). Then we spun both tires to check for drag and both wouldn't spin for more than two full turns or less, tried to put the car in neutral and got same results. Then we tried to turn the wheels while holding the brake down and couldn't spin either side.

So we tore it all apart and that is when I found out that he had bought rotors and pads from the salvage yard. Luckily He knew enough to get what looked like almost new rotors and pads(I got to admit they really did look pretty new).
When I inspected the old rotors and pads I noted some unevenness in the rotor on the right side and the pads on both sides that doesn't have the metal bracket that snaps in to the caliper cylinder were worn noticeably thinner than the pads with the clip.
I also noted worn groves in the caliper bracket, now I could see this causing some issues.
So I got my die grinder with a wire brush and another one with a stone and went to work cleaning the brackets up and getting them as nice and smooth without taking much material off(the most important part, bare minimum).
I also spent time wire brushing the caliper pins/bolts, the "new" rotors, the hubs on the car, I even did the pads where they ride the brackets.
Then I lubed the bracket pad tracks with a quality synthetic brake grease, the edges of the pads & the caliper pins/bolts.
I put a thin coat of copper anti seize on the bracket bolt threads, the back of the rotor that touches the hub and the studs.
We put it all back together and test drove it.
Brakes work flawless now.
No pull to the left or right & no more shaking of the steering wheel when braking.
SUCCESS
 

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No the black clip was still there when I put it back on today. The ABS light went off for the first time since he bought the car.

We did all the basic troubleshooting steps, jacked up the car, put it on stands and tried to wiggle the tire right to left then up and down, the right tire did move right to left just ever so lightly 1/8" maybe?(tie rod?). Then we spun both tires to check for drag and both wouldn't spin for more than two full turns or less, tried to put the car in neutral and got same results. Then we tried to turn the wheels while holding the brake down and couldn't spin either side.

So we tore it all apart and that is when I found out that he had bought rotors and pads from the salvage yard. Luckily He knew enough to get what looked like almost new rotors and pads(I got to admit they really did look pretty new).
When I inspected the old rotors and pads I noted some unevenness in the rotor on the right side and the pads on both sides that doesn't have the metal bracket that snaps in to the caliper cylinder were worn noticeably thinner than the pads with the clip.
I also noted worn groves in the caliper bracket, now I could see this causing some issues.
So I got my die grinder with a wire brush and another one with a stone and went to work cleaning the brackets up and getting them as nice and smooth without taking much material off(the most important part, bare minimum).
I also spent time wire brushing the caliper pins/bolts, the "new" rotors, the hubs on the car, I even did the pads where they ride the brackets.
Then I lubed the bracket pad tracks with a quality synthetic brake grease, the edges of the pads & the caliper pins/bolts.
I put a thin coat of copper anti seize on the bracket bolt threads, the back of the rotor that touches the hub and the studs.
We put it all back together and test drove it.
Brakes work flawless now.
No pull to the left or right & no more shaking of the steering wheel when braking.
SUCCESS
Nice work. I'm sure you and your son learned a lot, and also saved a bundle by troubleshooting and repairing this yourself vs. taking to a dealer. (y)
 

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You can try TE connectivity, they are a major OEM supplier of automotive connectors.
You can call them and show your picture and get a part number. I buy my automotive electrical connectors from them.
TE Connectivity: Connectors & Sensors for Harsh Environments

Deutsch was a major supplier as well, had a friend that worked for them in sales
DEUTSCH

It's not that hard to extract the wire and pin, and reinsert it back into a new module.
And they should come with water resistant gaskets.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
You can spend the typical $30 most connectors like that go for or replace it with something not the same that works as well for $2. You got a simple two wire connector there.

Uh, that likely will have zero effect on the brake pulling issues as well.

Brake calipers could be sticking. Spin the wheel assembly and see if you notice a drag. Just because the brake rotors look good doesn't mean they are.
If the steering wheel shakes when hitting the brakes the number one issue is a uneven build up of brake pad material on the rotors. Most say the brake rotors are warped but they're not actually warped it's just pad material that has built up unevenly.

Junk yard would be the best for the connector you want. I can't find it either.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

Thank you both, if it wasn't for your posts I would have fixed the ABS plug and put it back on and not known why it didn't fix the issue. If it weren't for you two I wouldn't have researched further and learned the troubleshooting steps to do in order to fix the real problem! I am just amazed the salvage yard rotors and pads fixed the problem, and all for $14 for rotors and $4 for the pads, so $18! not bad!
 
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