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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys,

Need some help.

I recently bought a 2002 Ford Focus 1.6 (Petrol) - with the heater not working on any settings.

I bought and changed the resistor in the hope that would fix it.. No luck there
Changed the blown fuse ... still no luck.

Now if I turn the settings up to speed 4 the fuse, under the bonnet, just blows.

I pulled the whole glove-box covers off to look at the motor and wiring. The motor, although not blowing, still responds to the air circulating feature by opening and closing.

Where do I go now with this problem? Is it the motor? the switches? short wire? How can I eliminate things as I don't want to buy a new motor and switches without needing too.

Any help would be great... Thanks Chris
 

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2004 Focus Wagon, Zetec DOHC, Auto
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Problems with the resistor block would affect speeds 1, 2, and 3. In speed 4, the power goes directly to the fan. If the fan is bad (shorted out) it will blow the fuse in position 4.

Unplug the fan connector and measure the voltage on the plug with the blower switch in position 4. If you are getting full battery voltage at the connector then the blower is most likely bad because you already know that if it is plugged in it blows the fuse.

This is a typical blower wiring diagram for the Focus. Yours may vary slightly.
 

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If you don't want to pony up the $100+ for a new blower motor, they can be had cheaply at a junkyard. I just paid $5 for one and it works like a charm.
 

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Battery voltage goes direct to motor thru the main 30Amp fuse. The fan switch provides a variable ground thru the use of resistors. Good news bad blower or shorted wire between fuse and blower motor. Bets on motor as you stated fuse blows when you turn on fan switch. Unplug blower motor if a new fuse does not blow bad motor if still blows shorted wire. Now for bad news shorted blower motor may have damaged new blower motor resistor you will know once replace motor. You can test with multi-meter or test light, with meter set to d/c voltage probe two lead of motor take care not to touch leads together as this will blow fuse,as you turn fan switch you should see a variance in voltage.If using a test light brightness will vary #1 dim-#4 bright. You should see a change in all switch positions. Note fan speed issue is normally the resistor but occasionally a switch will go bad to test switch connect clip end of test light to power unplug resistor ang gently probe each wire with the test light will be checking for ground and position of ground(where test light lights up) should move to different wire with the change of fan switch speed. Hope you have already resolved by time this posts.
 

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^^^Yes, that.

There is thermal fuse on the resistor block. If during your tests (after you put in the new block) you left the fan switch in position 1, 2, or 3 very long, it will pop the thermal fuse. Hopefully you did not ruin it and all you need is a new blower.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you all very much. Some great ideas and things to try. Will let you know how I get on.

Thanks

Chris
 

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I'm having issues with my blower too.

When A/C Fan/Blower switch is in 1st position, and A/C button is on, A/C Compressor kicks on, but fan doesn't blow.

When I turn A/C Fan/Blower switch to 2nd, 3rd, or 4th position, the fan blows like it should in each position, but it shuts the A/C Compressor off.
I replaced ALL the A/C / Heater controls on the dash, but it's still doing the same thing.

I'm going to try replacing the Blower Motor Resistor Pack.
I'm hoping this will fix the problem.

If anyone else has ever had this problem and was able to fix it, please let me know how I can fix it.

Thanks!
 

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Sorry you didn't get an answer DMCH82BL8. For some reason I didn't get a notification of your post to this thread. I just saw this and you may have already fixed it by now.

You are correct. Your problem would be a bad resistor pack. The position 1 resistor is burned out. That would explain the A/C clutch on and blower off in position 1. The opposite would happen in positions 2, 3, and 4. In the circuit diagram above, the wire going off to the right of the resistor block is what tells the A/C circuit that the blower fan is on and allows the compressor clutch to engage.
 

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Thanks.
I did replace the resistor pack, and it fixed the problem.
 

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I have a 2005 Focus ZX4 S, the fan blower does not work in speeds 1 or 2 but work perfect in speeds 3 & 4.

Seems like the most common solution for a problem like this was to replace the resistor, (I tried that & nothing changed). In hindsight I should of did more diagnosis as it sounds like the resistor usually affect speeds 1, 2 & 3.

I am next going to try a new Fan Blower Switch.

Can anyone @FocusKnot describe how to remove the HVAC control cover to get at the switch? Or perhaps a video link. I'm think you probably just carefully pry the cover from the corners, but it's nice to hear it from someone who's already done this before.

Thanks in advance.
 

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2006 ZX5 2.0, 2004 ZX3 SVT EE. 2004 ZX3 SVT
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I have a 2005 Focus ZX4 S, the fan blower does not work in speeds 1 or 2 but work perfect in speeds 3 & 4.

Seems like the most common solution for a problem like this was to replace the resistor, (I tried that & nothing changed). In hindsight I should of did more diagnosis as it sounds like the resistor usually affect speeds 1, 2 & 3.

I am next going to try a new Fan Blower Switch.

Can anyone @FocusKnot describe how to remove the HVAC control cover to get at the switch? Or perhaps a video link. I'm think you probably just carefully pry the cover from the corners, but it's nice to hear it from someone who's already done this before.

Thanks in advance.
Yep. Use a plastic trim tool and it pries right out.
 

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Yep. Use a plastic trim tool and it pries right out.
In case anyone runs into a similar problem, I'll let you know what the issues was on my 2005 Focus, as it wasn't the usual resistor.

Symptoms: Blower Fan & A/C light did not function in speeds 1 or 2, but work fin on speed 3 & 4.

At first I thought it was the resistor, I changed it, nothing changed.

I then bought a Blower Fan Switch & changed that out & that fixed the problem.

I probably should of did a better diagnosis, (rather than just throw parts are it) but at first I was unsure how to remove the HVAC bezel to get at the switch so I went with the easy route by trying a new resistor. I later found out the switch was very easy to access by gently prying the HVAC bezel with a trim tool or putty knife.

The hardest part was just unplugging the harness from the old switch as Pin# 3 showed signs of being over heated (Slight melting a base of pin). It took a fair but of force, but I managed to remove the plug without doing any damage.

The new switch seemd to fix the issue, however I'm a bit concerned why the switch showed sins of being over heated. The fan blower seems to work fine, so I hope I didn't miss something that may cause the switch to over heat agan down the road.

Cheers
 
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