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Discussion Starter #1
I've only had the car aBout 2 weeks but it seems to have a problem getting hot air into the car. The engine warms pretty quick and even when it heats to the normal temp it takes an additional 5 minutes to really start blowing hot air. My old 08 focus would blow hot air before it even got to the normal running temp. This one blows Luke warm air at half temp and even at full running g temp until it's been running for at least 5 minutes at normal temp. I have never had an issue like this but was thinking of brining it to the dealer just wondered if anyone else has had a problem like this?
 

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My '04 is more like your '12.

With the cyl. head temp sensor it sees the engine warm on the gauge before the coolant heats up enough to get good cabin heating.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I just don't understand why a new car would be doing this. Older cars tend to do this when the radiator needs flushed because of gunk build up in the heater core but my 12' only has 19k miles on it. I wouldn't think that would be an issue with this low of miles.

Also my 14' fusion blows hot air within a minute or two of starting and within 5 minutes you have to turn the heat off cause its like an oven. The focus on the other hand takes a good 15 minutes to even be warm on cold days.

I have to take the car back to the dealer anyways to get a spare key made because they apparently lost the other set. I'll ask them about it but the sales people like to BS about everything which gets annoying.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm bringing in Friday to have them make the new key and they are going to check it then. Something isn't right with it.
 

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I'm bringing in Friday to have them make the new key and they are going to check it then. Something isn't right with it.
Hi n8 dawg,

I want to look into this further. Can you please let me know your mileage?

Meagan
 

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Squad-G's times are in the ballpark I was thinking of when you mentioned 5 min. after initial warm up on the gauge.

15 min. 'till it's warm is another story.
 

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You do realize that the temp gauge is more like an idiot gauge...

this has been mentioned plenty of time here on this forum.

Gauge read full temp (half-way) well below 90C/ 180F more around 50-60C / 120-130F.

That's why you don't have heat...

I takes 5 minutes after reaching "normal" temp from the gauge to have heat for me.

Computer calculate every value between 50C to 105C to be normal and show on the gauge half-way


Also my 14' fusion blows hot air within a minute or two of starting and within 5 minutes you have to turn the heat off cause its like an oven. The focus on the other hand takes a good 15 minutes to even be warm on cold days.
GDI GDI GDI....

Guess what .... the more efficient the engine is ... the more it takes time to develop heat!
 

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It has about 19,200 miles right now. The dealership is going to be looking at it Friday afternoon.

I'll bet 20 bucks with you that they are gonna say "Normal Operation" [grinking]
 

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Gauge read full temp (half-way) well below 90C/ 180F more around 50-60C / 120-130F.
Yup, Ford deserves a bunch of warranty repair requests for this injustice. It's one of my top 3 complaints about the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Def not normal considering my 14 fusion has more heat within 2 minutes when the temp gauge has barely moved than my focus when it's at normal operating temp after almost 10 minutes of driving not just ideling. This is also on days when its been 40 degrees. The morning it was 15 degrees the car never even blew warm air when i dropped my daughter off at school which is about a 10 minute drive. My old focus would have been like a sauna.
 

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my 14 fusion has more heat within 2 minutes

Cannot compare apples to oranges...

Fusion have the old duratec 2.5L or 2.0L turbo (ecoboost)...


Neither use the same technologies like the mk3 focus...



Get it checked...also check your coolant bottle since some 2012-2013 focus have issues with coolant level.
 

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Yup, Ford deserves a bunch of warranty repair requests for this injustice. It's one of my top 3 complaints about the car.
Sorry but the masses don't want an actual temperature gauge that reads in real time, they would freak out over the slightest movement of the needle. Which is why the manufacturers went to the idiot light, and then later to damped gauges that tend to display right around 50% of the scale after the car starts to warm up until it's at or slightly over operating temperatures. Only once damage is about to be done does the car issue a stern warning with a sudden and rapid rise into the hot region of the gauge. This is done so that the masses do not freak out and go to the dealership every single time the gauge moved in a way they were not expecting.

Trying to rack up bogus repair claims for something that is working as intended seems petty and childish.

Some people have enough trouble as it is trying to get Ford or any other manufacturer to repair actual defects let alone deal with this bogus claim.

Speaking of heat however both my SE and ST seem to have no shortage of heat available. Even turning the manual hvac down a lot it's still too warm sometimes in this cold weather.
 

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Trying to rack up bogus repair claims for something that is working as intended seems petty and childish.
It may well be working as designed, but it isn't working as advertised. I was promised a car with a functioning temperature gauge:

gauge
ɡāj/
noun
an instrument or device for measuring the magnitude, amount, or contents of something
synonyms: measuring device, measuring instrument

That was the very first result that google gave me.

Or to put it another way, it takes longer for my oil to heat up than my coolant. I know that because I am an educated consumer. I also know that I shouldn't romp on the engine until after the oil is up to temperature. And then Ford goes and lies to me about the engine/coolant being up to temperature?
 

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It has about 19,200 miles right now. The dealership is going to be looking at it Friday afternoon.
Thanks for the reply!

I want to dig a little deeper on this. Please send me a PM with your VIN, best daytime phone number, full name, and dealer name/location.

I'll be out of the office on Thanksgiving (and over the weekend, as usual), but I will be here on Friday.

Meagan
 

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Ah, but you GOT a "gauge" which functions.

It's exact function & accuracy isn't part of the deal other than as a gross indicator of a condition. It shows cold, normal & too hot - all the situations it's designed to display. It even shows some transition between those conditions.

Lack of indication on the gauge face of anything more than that is a tip off to the "accuracy" guaranteed, no better than half of the divisions shown. Even highly accurate gauges have an error % specified.

To give an example, absent a particular rule or law specifying otherwise any measurement of an item for sale needs only be accurate to one half of the smallest measuring unit specified. If you ask for a 5' board, 4 1/2' to 5 1/2' falls into the common law margin of accuracy. Better ask for a 60" board if you want one closer to that length. (one place trip computers fail, as their digital displays show data below significant figures - good thing they aren't guaranteed accurate)

As far as "up to temp" is concerned for operation, the cyl. head temp of the metal is the important value as it reflects the metal temps of the operating components. Head/pistons/cylinders up to temp & normal operation is OK. Oil & coolant temps aren't a concern for that, close enough by the time the head is up to temp.

Oil doesn't come up to temp until later as you noted, when a "gauge" is provided for that it'll show the delay.

Personally, I prefer "real" gauges as I can draw more info. from them. Current ones are more for show than use, giving little more than a rough idea what's happening.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Cannot compare apples to oranges...

Fusion have the old duratec 2.5L or 2.0L turbo (ecoboost)...


Neither use the same technologies like the mk3 focus...

The fusion is a 1.5L turbo, different technology but my old 08 focus ran the same way. Granted when it started getting some miles on it the car took longer to heat up it seemed but it still would blow hot air when the gausge was about half way to normal operating temp.

It would make sense if the gauge wasn't completely accurate but to be at whats considered normal operating temperature and then continue to blow luke warm air for a few more minutes is not just off by a small percentage. A small percentage would be it running around 180* when the gauge reads full temp around 200* or so, which at 180* it would still blow hot air. The gauge would have to be WAY off like it running at 100* and it showing its at the full temp.

Today however it was blowing hot air before the gauge even reached the normal operating temp. I know the days I have noticed the issue it has been below 20*, but why would it work fine above 20* and not after is just confusing to me. It may be nothing but since I am bringing the car in to get the spare key made I might as well have them check it.
 

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Doesn't hurt at ALL to get it checked, there have been some with HVAC control problems on the MkIII. Some as simple as a loose connector to the dash control, some needed new dash control unit & I'm sure there are other possibilities I haven't noticed reported.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
That's what I was wondering, if anyone else has noticed anything similar to this. It may very well be nothing and I wouldn't even take it to the dealer for this alone, but figured I'd at least have them check since I am going to be there anyways.
 
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