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Discussion Starter #1
Put Silverstars in both high and low beam, and am generally pretty happy with the lights. Wouldn't mind raising them a little, and there's the problem.

Page 127 of the Focus Owner's Guide ('FOG' for short...) gives a clear diagram of the vertical adjuster, showing it with a hex head and a center Phillips slot.

At the location shown, in my car, there is no such thing. Instead, there is an empty hole with the edge of what looks like a toothed wheel visible at the bottom. It appears that an extra-long Torx driver might engage this wheel, meshing with the Torx like a gear, but none of mine seem long enough to reach.

Any suggestions or personal experience?
Thnx,
Moon
 

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Yes, a #2 phillips goes in this slot and it takes several turns to be really obvious. I used a water heater piece of cardboard when aiming the Ti lights I installed:

 

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Discussion Starter #4
5.0, thanks for the comeback, but I must be missing something. Pics show what a sanitary job you did changing out the lights, but only briefly mentions adjustment.
Moon
ETA- I suspect there is a lateral adjustment as well, tho' that's not a concern right now.
M
 

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No lateral adjustments on the light. You just turn the screwdriver to get the lights at the right height you need. I did one at a time so I had a baseline for stock adjustment (Which was adequte, but not confirmed by me...)
 

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From 2nd printing:

AIMING THE HEADLAMPS
The headlamps on your vehicle are properly aimed at the assembly plant.
If your vehicle has been in an accident, the alignment of your headlamps
should be checked by your authorized dealer.
Vertical aim adjustment
1. Park the vehicle directly in front of a wall or screen on a level surface,
approximately 25 feet (7.6 meters) away.
• (1) 8 feet (2.4 meters)
• (2) Center height of lamp to
ground
• (3) 25 feet (7.6 meters)
• (4) Horizontal reference line
2. Measure the height of the
headlamp bulb center from the
ground and mark an 8 foot
(2.4 meter) horizontal reference line
on the vertical wall or screen at this
height.
3. Turn on the low beam headlamps to illuminate the wall or screen and
open the hood.
To see a clearer light pattern for adjusting, you may want to block the
light from one headlamp while adjusting the other.
observe a flat zone of high intensity
light located at the top of the right
hand portion of the beam pattern. If
the top edge of the high intensity
light zone is not at the horizontal
reference line, the headlamp will
need to be adjusted.
4. Locate the vertical adjuster on
each headlamp. Using a Phillips #2
screwdriver or 13 mm
wrench/socket, turn the adjuster
either clockwise (to adjust down) or
counterclockwise (to adjust up).
The horizontal edge of the brighter
light should touch the horizontal
reference line.
5. Close the hood and turn off the lamps.
HORIZONTAL AIM IS NOT REQUIRED FOR THIS VEHICLE AND IS​
NON-ADJUSTABLE.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes, a #2 phillips goes in this slot and it takes several turns to be really obvious. I used a water heater piece of cardboard when aiming the Ti lights I installed:

Okay, went for an actual Phillips screwdriver rather than a snap-on driver, and it feels like it might actually engage something. Don't have time to experiment right this instant.
Have a look on 127 in the FOG; it shows a Phillips slotted 13mm hex bolt in the diagram, so something changed.
Thnx again
Moon
 

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Yes, it must have changed. When I get home I can take a pic of my SE lights I removed if you haven't figured it out by then. Like I said, a lot of turns are needed to make a change. Following the manual as mentioned with a mark (make sure its dark) you will be able to see the change you make.

EDIT, yes you're right about the 13mm. I don't recall seeing that or anything that would resemble on the light to adjust.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes, it must have changed. When I get home I can take a pic of my SE lights I removed if you haven't figured it out by then. Like I said, a lot of turns are needed to make a change. Following the manual as mentioned with a mark (make sure its dark) you will be able to see the change you make.

EDIT, yes you're right about the 13mm. I don't recall seeing that or anything that would resemble on the light to adjust.
5.0, not my first rodeo with lights. There are 100W H-4s in my Wrangler running thru' relays, and I've been sticking Eurospec lights in things for years until the advent of aerolights.
Current cutoff is about 26.5-27", tho' that's only 4' in front of the car (did you notice that dimension # 2 has no value in the diagram? :D )
Gotta get my walk, but I'll try using the Phillips; it might engage that geared wheel.
Moon
 

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5.0, not my first rodeo with lights. There are 100W H-4s in my Wrangler running thru' relays, and I've been sticking Eurospec lights in things for years until the advent of aerolights.
Current cutoff is about 26.5-27", tho' that's only 4' in front of the car (did you notice that dimension # 2 has no value in the diagram? :D )
Gotta get my walk, but I'll try using the Phillips; it might engage that geared wheel.
Moon
Sorry, didn't want to insult you - seems like there are a large amount of new to working on car types on here so assumed (Poorly!) that was the case.

Yes, the Ford manuals suck. When you mentioned the socket driver I was unsure what they were referring to so looked at the manual. I didn't really mess with how the left the factory; just matched what they had as it seems perfect so far for us. But no left right adjustment. Seems that's the trend as the same was the case on my F150.

Either way, let me know if you need a picture, but I think you're more than capable if you need to remove the light. 5 mins tops and T30 is all that's needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Not to worry, 5.0. No offense taken. And I had the lamp assemblies out to install the Silverstars; it was easy. If the Focus lights degrade as many aero lights do, I hope replacements are available down the road.

It appears that the #2 Phillips is the answer to the question; the Phillips ribs engage the geared wheel in the bottom of the hole on the back of the light. It is necessary to use a dedicated Phillips rather than snap-on bits, as the holder is too bulky to fit correctly.

Thanks for the comeback.
Moon

ETA- I was looking at the owner's manual, not the FSM. I wouldn't mind an FSM; do you have a good source?
M
 

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Good to know about the bit drivers to large but makes sense.

No sadly I dont have access to any FSMs.
 
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