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Tom, I'm having a little dilemma. Engine is coming out of my car tonight for clutch/flywheel/diff changing... and I want to change the HG back to stock (I'm currently using a 0.060" on a JRSCed car for no reason at all.)
I remember tightening one or two of the ARP head stud nuts with a 6-point socket (they are 12-point). They rounded a little bit, so we went and bought the right socket to do the rest. Anyway, I want to replace the nuts, and just called ARP today to find out the thread pitch (10x1.25). THE PROBLEM is that I also found out they are made of 8740 alloy, which is ridiculously strong, and expands very slowly. I was planning to use Grade 8 nuts from a hardware store... will I be okay to do that?
Should I just swap the 2-3 that are damaged, and then swap them back when the ARP nut kit could get here (next week sometime)? Or maybe swap all of them so the head will be torqued evenly? Or should I use the messed up ARP nuts, then replace the nuts with new nuts and re-torque? Can our heads be re-torqued without replacing the HG again?
Thanks for the help.
I remember tightening one or two of the ARP head stud nuts with a 6-point socket (they are 12-point). They rounded a little bit, so we went and bought the right socket to do the rest. Anyway, I want to replace the nuts, and just called ARP today to find out the thread pitch (10x1.25). THE PROBLEM is that I also found out they are made of 8740 alloy, which is ridiculously strong, and expands very slowly. I was planning to use Grade 8 nuts from a hardware store... will I be okay to do that?
Should I just swap the 2-3 that are damaged, and then swap them back when the ARP nut kit could get here (next week sometime)? Or maybe swap all of them so the head will be torqued evenly? Or should I use the messed up ARP nuts, then replace the nuts with new nuts and re-torque? Can our heads be re-torqued without replacing the HG again?
Thanks for the help.
