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Discussion Starter #1
So I have a 02 svt focus with 101k miles on it.

Here is what i know is wrong right now. The DSI clip is broken. The little push button thing on top of the valve is broken.

My car runs fine but only above 6k rpm. you have to hold the gas all the way down till you get there which takes about 1.5s. Below that rpm it is as if i am dragging a pile of bricks behind me

I haven't replaced my head gasket which i suspect is leaking, nor my timing belt.

Should i look for a new head for my car or replace the whole motor.
 

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wow, wow, wow, jumping to conclusions pretty quickly i see.

what push button on which valve? have you visually looked at the timing belt to see if it has jumped a tooth? Just because it has does not indicate that you need a head. The engine would not run much if the valves made contact with the pistons. what makes you think the head gasket is leaking? MORE INFORMATION IS NEEDED.
 

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The head gasket is suspect to leaking because when it drives off i see white smoke, Also I am leaking coolant and on my last oil change the oil appeared more "Milky" then usual.

The reason I am jumping the gun a bit, is because if i know i need a timing belt, possibly a head gasket, the DSI Clip, I won't be near the car until friday to give pictures.
 

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White smoke is oil or built up carbon in the catalytic converter. Head gaskets usually emit steam not smoke, so be sure you're seeing steam and not smoke. You'd also have to refill coolant frequently if you were steaming out of the tail pipe. Oil on the other hand, it takes very little oil to make smoke, but that can come from the valve seals and not the head gasket. The milky oil is a sign of a bad head gasket though.

Coolant leaks in this car are typically the thermostat housing. It cracks. Head gaskets don't usually leak outside the vehicle if you're seeing puddles under the engine. That could be a separate issue.

If the timing belt breaks, you will be getting a new engine or a new cylinder head. You should replace the belt and the head gasket now. If you can do the work yourself, then it's not that expensive- most of the expense is labor.
 

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If the tail pipe is putting out white steam/smoke and your oil is milky then it's most likely a head gasket or cracked head. Hopefully it's not though.

Oil is whitish blue smoke and you would really be able to smell the oil burning if it's smoking pretty bad.

like whynotthinkwhynot mentioned, are you adding coolant?
 

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The head gasket is suspect to leaking because when it drives off i see white smoke, Also I am leaking coolant and on my last oil change the oil appeared more "Milky" then usual.
ok boss, either the head gasket is cracked/head is warped or NOT.

there's no in between. if no good, your oil will be WHITE milky everywhere all around.

ok if this is a problem, your car wont even drive. you wont even barely be able to start it up. youll see a lot of thick white smoke at first, then dont even try to start it up. you cant drive the car, period.

if this is the case, you probably dont even need to buy a new head let alone a motor. hold your horses boss, all you need to do it take off the head and replace the gasket. check with a straight edge to see if any light is coming through gaps on the head or if there are any obvious cracks. if not, you're good. put everything back.

if you see a gap(s) with light coming through/cracks, then just take the head to a machine shop and have them redo it. 50 dollars max for the head shave, about 50 dollars for the gasket. remember to use gasket maker on the head AND the block. when changing the gasket.

to flush the milk out, diesel fuel works well.

like the other guys said, hold your horses, no need to jump into conclusions (or big purchases in this case)

edit: just wanted to stress. DONT DRIVE THE CAR PERIOD if coolant is mixing with out (aka head gasket leak/problem)

if you do, the head itself will warp/crack and then you will not only have to change the gasket, but also shave the head.
 

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Make sure to get some clean oil in there. Coolant in your oil is no good for bearings.
 

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Make sure to get some clean oil in there. Coolant in your oil is no good for bearings.
no boss, read my post above yours.
dont drive the car at all, period.
you will crack/waft the head. then you will have to take it to a machine shop to shave it, instead of just change the gasket.
 

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Im thinking about buying svt car drove fine. perfect. but the engine light was on. dealer said they replaced the best, and belt pully. then mechanic told me he let enigne run with out the belt on to see how engine would run? is that good or possible? then dealer told me the engine code was oxygen sensor. and they cleared it. car has new timing belt and pully 2 differnt parts to the pully. how can you tell if valves are bent? will compression test show that the engine is good? and if i drive the car long enough will the engine light come back on. if they didnt install it right? they said they replaced the belt with a slighlty looser belt. due to the fact they belt that was on there they said was to tight? all help would greatly be appreciated. is a slightly looser belt better than a tighter belt? the car has 69,000 miles on it.
 

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then mechanic told me he let enigne run with out the belt on to see how engine would run? is that good or possible?
It will run without the serpentine belt for a short time. This is not something I've even heard of being done since the age of sprung tensioners. It is unnecessary.

then dealer told me the engine code was oxygen sensor. and they cleared it.
+1 for dealer
how can you tell if valves are bent?
Engine won't start, won't run. You'll crank but not start, and eventually you might get a big boom out the tail pipe- or worse, out the intake. Gasoline does that after a while when you keep throwing sparks at it.

they said they replaced the belt with a slighlty looser belt. due to the fact they belt that was on there they said was to tight?
OK, that's totally wack. If I had someone work on my car, and they told me that BS, I'd probably come unglued, maybe even have a high speed come-apart. It is possible that someone routed the belt incorrectly, and that made it loose. I can see that happening. I cannot see someone putting a much shorter belt on any new vehicle with a sprung tensioner. It is possible, but the worst thing that would happen is that the belt was tighter on the tensioner arm- not on the accessories. I'm suspect that I'm either not getting the correct information, or something awful screwy is going on around here.
 
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