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Discussion Starter #1
I know you're gonna tell me to compression test it before i do anything with it...as Tom said.....but I got issues with my issues major major vibration at 70 if it's missing wheel weights wouldnt I notice a vibebration at all speeds? I need shocks struts brakes tires I'm putting 4 quarts into it like every 2 or so weeks I need a new head #4 is stripped it has an insert in it. I have 4 more years to pay for it at 266 a month...So I cant trade it in.....really ...oh and I'm one of those guys who actually drive their car.
 

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missing balancing wheel weights will cause vibration at highway speeds. Only severely warped wheels will cause vibration at low speeds. Get the wheel balancing sorted first. Only replace shocks and struts if you are getting severe bouncing or you can actually see the shocks leaking. A four year old car should not need strut replacement unless it has been severely abused on very bad road surfaces. Consider replacing the head before selling off that car, it is not too expensive, can be had for under $300USD
 

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Cheaper to repair your car then to take a dump & get another vehicle.
 

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Gotta figure out possible problems one at a time, and the vibration could easily be cheap as a missing wheel weight.

Insert repair to a plug hole isn't tragic by itself either, as long as it was done right & is working.

Oil consumption is the first worry, and needs figuring out. Start with telling us how & when you add oil - don't want to put words in your mouth by guessing.

How it's running in General would be a good start as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok A little more backround my shocks and struts have been blown out I'm lowered, I thought aluminum doesnt bend it just shatters? I add oil whenever I get gas.......well almost whenever i have steam or something coming from the fill cap the oil isn't milky just dirty. Tom said I should make my own pcv bypass but that's gonna be a bitch because the pcv I'm sure you know is behind the intake manifold.
 

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Bad tire is certainly possible (you said they were shot), but that wouldn't show at a certain speed like out of balance does.

Old oil will burn a LOT more than fresher, and I'm wondering about possible overfill causing MORE trouble - just pull the stick for a quick check & it'll look a quart low, add a quart & you're a quart HIGH - and you'll tend to blow that out.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
when i pull the stick it's empty sometimes there's a little oil on the sides of the stick, I can smell oil also I have some emissions problems p0455 p0451 as well
 

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Moved this to general Tech Chat for a better fit.

Do you know where to look up codes in this section?

Gotta pull, wipe & reinsert to make sure you're getting a good measurement - mine shows a quart down every time if I just pull it for a check. That's why I asked, didn't know how you were checking & it's been a problem for others before.

First comment about doing a Compression test you made is correct, best way to get an initial read on overall mechanical condition of the engine.

How many miles on the thing by now?
 

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Evap/tank pressure codes, wouldn't relate to oil consumption.
 

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Swap your rear wheels with the fronts, and you'll know it's a wheel issue if the vibration travels with them. I had mud buildup on the inside of a wheel, and it threw off the balance so badly that I thought a belt had separated to cause that much vibration.

If it seems to be the wheels, you might have gotten a bad balancing job on your new fronts, or if the rears are the problem, you said the tires are shot anyway, so it would be time for new ones...hell, put used on if you're short on cash, but something that's round and has some tread life left.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So I figured out a major portion of my vibebration issue was a seperated left rear tire nice and smooth at all speeds but now I think I have a engine motor mount problem I however pulled the e brake and brake torqued it and I really dont have that much movement. I don't think that it could be a bearing........if it was a bearing wouldn't it set off a ABS light?
 

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Brake torqueing it shows mostly rear motor mount (dogbone) problems, your model in particular would need a BADLY damaged passenger side mount before showing excessive movement there.

Vibrations from that mount show up first at idle, and worse when the engine is first started & the mount is cold. When bad it vibrates all the time & is coordinated with RPM.

Wheels/drivetrain vibes go along with speed as opposed to RPM - you've got to separate the two to have an idea where to think about looking. ABS code isn't likely for a bearing issue until (and only maybe) when it's falling apart and the wheel is really wobbling

If you don't post symptoms & when they occur there isn't much anyone can do to guess the cause.


BTW - what about the engine? That was the major concern when you first posted.
 
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