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Drive it like a manual

As one of the other replies said, drive it like a manual. I have 110,000 miles on my '13 Titanium hatch. I love everything about this vehicle EXCEPT the PS 6-speed. I bought the extended powertrain warranty from the dealer when i bought the car new, and it's paid for itself many times over. First time in was for clutch pack failure and TCM replacement. 2nd time in was for shift motor failure. 3rd time in was leaking seals and another clutch failure. Never really left me on the side of the road as I was able to limp it into the dealer each time and the dealer arranged for covered rental each time. Apparently there have been some engineering improvements on some of the components and the dealer used these for my repairs. No problems in the last 30k mi. I attribute the newfound longevity to the improved components and the changes I've made to my driving habits. When in stop-and-go traffic put it in neutral. Shift into drive when you can maintain a steady speed of at least 5-7mph then when you stop put it back into neutral, rinse and repeat. Don't drop the hammer off the line. Ease into it, These trannys CAN NOT be driven like e fluid-coupled unit.
 

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If you got a pretty good shudder, take it in. My recent clutch job was covered under the 5 year/60,000 mile powertrain warranty. Since you got a 14 with 33,000 miles, you should be golden. Sounds like you might still be under your bumper to bumper warranty too. If so, have them fix anything that might be messed up while it's free. For example, my grill shudders basically fell apart and my dome light was being stupid due to a BCM issue. Expensive repairs that cost me $100 (I've got a Ford Extended Service Plan) but would have been free under a bumper to bumper.
 

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As one of the other replies said, drive it like a manual. I have 110,000 miles on my '13 Titanium hatch. I love everything about this vehicle EXCEPT the PS 6-speed. I bought the extended powertrain warranty from the dealer when i bought the car new, and it's paid for itself many times over. First time in was for clutch pack failure and TCM replacement. 2nd time in was for shift motor failure. 3rd time in was leaking seals and another clutch failure. Never really left me on the side of the road as I was able to limp it into the dealer each time and the dealer arranged for covered rental each time. Apparently there have been some engineering improvements on some of the components and the dealer used these for my repairs. No problems in the last 30k mi. I attribute the newfound longevity to the improved components and the changes I've made to my driving habits. When in stop-and-go traffic put it in neutral. Shift into drive when you can maintain a steady speed of at least 5-7mph then when you stop put it back into neutral, rinse and repeat. Don't drop the hammer off the line. Ease into it, These trannys CAN NOT be driven like e fluid-coupled unit.


Well, almost 2 years since this post and all is still well. Got 143,000 miles on the clock and still going strong. Got CEL last week with P0456 DTC. Cleared it once and it came back three days later. Ordered new purge valve. Hoping that will do the trick.


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Good to hear you still have it! It's a pretty great car, aside from a couple of known issues. Thankfully the community is always there to help out when you have something "weird" going on. You get it sorted out, and return to business as usual, right?
 

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This thread is kinda surreal. I had the exact same problem as the OP... driving my ‘14 up to Dodger stadium and receiving the same warning. Since then I’ve learned to drive the car more like a manual and never feather the brake.


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I hate bumping an older thread however I need some help please with my 2012 Ford Focus.
Went out tonight and stopped at McDonalds for about 30 minutes then got back on the interstate and suddenly felt a lurch like in the car and then the transmission overheating warning came on.
Pulled over and let it rest for a few minutes and turned it on and tried to go and the engine will rev but it acts like it is transferring very little power so was only able to creep under 20 mph and thus triggers the overheat msg again.
So, transmission bad or is it more likely the TCM decided to die again? Car has over 230k miles so its seen alot of action.
My brother checked the computer and the codes he pulled were

Shift Error
P07A4 - Transmission Code

Transmission Friction Element "B" Apply
P2701 - Transmission Code

(PATS) Key
B10D7
 

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That pats code is more than likely negligible dive it's been noted that many people get it for literally no reason, including myself
 

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I hate bumping an older thread however I need some help please with my 2012 Ford Focus.
Went out tonight and stopped at McDonalds for about 30 minutes then got back on the interstate and suddenly felt a lurch like in the car and then the transmission overheating warning came on.
Pulled over and let it rest for a few minutes and turned it on and tried to go and the engine will rev but it acts like it is transferring very little power so was only able to creep under 20 mph and thus triggers the overheat msg again.
So, transmission bad or is it more likely the TCM decided to die again? Car has over 230k miles so its seen alot of action.
My brother checked the computer and the codes he pulled were

Shift Error
P07A4 - Transmission Code

Transmission Friction Element "B" Apply
P2701 - Transmission Code

(PATS) Key
B10D7
Probably need to change clutch pack ....



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Ballpark, $500-$2000 and a couple hours, need to check with the shop beforehand if they can or are familiar with how to repair, speciality tools are needed to get the old one out and to get the new one in, then software magic needs to be done
 

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What did you ever figure out on your car kyn1972? My 203k mile 2012 threw this code today after acting like the clutch was not engaged all the way. Threw a warning message for failed hill assist as well...but that code didn’t show up on the code reader.
305692
 

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So update on the price, it was $2213.85 and the clutches are on 3 month backorder

Also may be related, clutch fork A was rusted engaged so I lost 1,3, and 5 on clutch A, clutch fork B was rusted as well but not stuck, 3 servos were fried, and in the process of getting it home (135 miles) clutch B got burnt out.


So the code is for friction element B (apply time range/performance)

The TCM keeps track of the thickness of the friction surface within 0.01mm based on slip detection and engagement feedback from the servo

My initial guess would be it hasn't been shifting right (imagine that lol) and has caused excess wear on clutch B

Or it could have a similar case of the brown death like mine did lol

And for the hill assist, it operates through the ABS module and I've found will disable itself if any slight issue is detected with the drivetrain


To save yourself on additional forks, servos, and a full clutch, I would park it until you can get it to the dealer for a diagnosis which price varies from place to place, the dealer here is $150, the dealer 40 miles away is $100
 

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So the code is for friction element B (apply time range/performance)

The TCM keeps track of the thickness of the friction surface within 0.01mm based on slip detection and engagement feedback from the servo

My initial guess would be it hasn't been shifting right (imagine that lol) and has caused excess wear on clutch B

Or it could have a similar case of the brown death like mine did lol

And for the hill assist, it operates through the ABS module and I've found will disable itself if any slight issue is detected with the drivetrain
To update this, on mine car it ended up being the Control module. $900 with a two year unlimited mile warranty from the local dealership. The sad part, that was the second module put in the car. The original was replace in October 2015 with 85k on the car; Ford paid for that one.
 
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