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Hey everyone. I installed my frpp suspension today[wrenchin] , turned out pretty good. Drives nice and strait and handles MUCH better; i'll get an alignment in a few weeks after it settles in. I measured it before and after and it was only like a half inch difference [dunno] so I really hope it drops more.





carwash[bath]


threw in the gf's fusion:

NO HUBBIES! ftw!

Man I need rims[burnout]
 

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Hey everyone. I installed my frpp suspension today[wrenchin] , turned out pretty good. Drives nice and strait and handles MUCH better; i'll get an alignment in a few weeks after it settles in. I measured it before and after and it was only like a half inch difference [dunno] so I really hope it drops more.
Did you do all the final torquing while there was weight on the suspension (not while drooping)? Too many people tighten everything when drooping and that binds up the bushings and doesn't let the car settle as it should.
 

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damn looks real good. It's crazy how much the lack of the side "vents" help the flow of the car. love the second picture of it dropped.

I'm partial cause I have that kit on my silver 07, and i'm rockin the steelies as well
 

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Did you do all the final torquing while there was weight on the suspension (not while drooping)? Too many people tighten everything when drooping and that binds up the bushings and doesn't let the car settle as it should.
Yup. What he says is true. Basically what you can do is torque down all your connections with load on the suspension. Tighten everything finger tight and then use a jack with a wood board or something as an insulator under the rotor or drum to put load on the suspension. I go till it barely lifts that side of the car off the supporting jack stand. Then torque everything down to spec. This is especially important with how the front struts mount into the main wheel assembly. The little tab on the inside of the strut rests on top of the bolt that tightens the clamp around the strut. If this is tightened prematurely without the strut being seated against this bolt first and then tightened, you are basically negating any lowering effect of the spring as the strut itself is mounted higher in its mount. Hope this all makes sense. lol. Kinda rambled...
 

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Everything they are saying is true i worked for ford for 5 years and im going back to another dealer the 21st.... but to let you in on a secrete for anyone who reads this if for some reason you have it done at a dealership watch them cause techs don't do it that way they tighten everything up while in the air ...cause the more work they get done in a day the more money they make... well for exception of me im on a salary not flat rate not enough work out there right now to want to bust my ass. so that means i can do everything right and take me time to a certain extent
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
damn looks real good. It's crazy how much the lack of the side "vents" help the flow of the car. love the second picture of it dropped.

I'm partial cause I have that kit on my silver 07, and i'm rockin the steelies as well
Thanks bud!



Its settled more over the past few days. i put a load on the front with the floorjack and then torqued but i'll be sure to re-check with the car's weight on the suspension. Thanks guys[:D]
 

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how u like it man?... i love mine
 

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well some one plase PM me and let me know where to get that
 

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no it's not... you really don't notice the stiffness until you hit the corners... and it feels way better then.
 

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Tried to install my FRPP yesterday and everything is so corroded thanks to 56k Michigan miles, I can't do it. Got a quote of $735 to do the install including an alignment today including the anti-sway bars, too. I was willing to spend $630 to lower the car 1.5" and get a better handling car, but NOT $1,365.

This better be damn good, that's all I've got to say.
 

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WD40 and impact tools can help. I rather buy tools then pay for labor. Just my opinon.
 

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WD40 and impact tools can help. I rather buy tools then pay for labor. Just my opinon.
Did the WD40 AND Sea Foam. Car was dripping on the driveway for three days from getting sprayed like mad under there. Bought an impact motor and 15mm socket ... couldn't budge it.

Then, took the car to the local muffler shop where they finally loosed the rear strut bolt. Since I had to take the bolt out of the lower control arm to remove the OEM spring, I tried to remove that bolt, and the bushing is froze on the bolt itself so it actually spread the area where the bushing is and ruined the lower control arm. Part of the $735 quote is for a new left rear lower control arm.

With a lift, a big-ass air compressor, and a full compliment of air tools, I might tackle this job. As it is having none of that and with a five-year-old car that's seen plenty of corrosive salt spray, I'm letting a pro do it.

I'm much better working on a my newer car unhampered by adversity. [shhh]
 

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Usually the rear lower control arms need to have the bolts cut off with a saw and new control arms put back on. Add ~150 dollars if you do it yourself.
 

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Boy sounds like I got lucky on mine.
 
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