[sgtsmasher]

aight so.....ive been doing the car audio thing for quite some time now AND im actually stumped...i just bought a DVC 4000W max sub the PYLE DRYVER...and i have a 4000W PYLE POWER amp and also a farad 5 PYLE cap...they make good stuff, what can i say...ANYWAYS...with everything hooked up correctly meaning going from battery threw a 100 amp fuse to the cap then to the amp and then to the sub i HAD a SVC 1000W max sub before the new one and no problems...when i hooked up the dryver the way it should be it sucks a lot of power...enough to kill the batt...twice...with the head unit barely even turned up so whats going on

 

[freemind]

Big 3?

You need an high output Alt.

I assume that the amp is putting out about 1500 RMS. The stock alt puts out 110 amps period. You have a supply problem. The cap is doing you zero good.

 

[sgtsmasher]

...hmm kinda doesnt help but thanks, i would like to do the BIG 3 and high out put alts are not cheap...has anyone ever hooked up two batteries???

 

[memphiscbrider]

maybe get an optima battery??? ive had a few and they are very hard to drain power completely

 

[magikarp!]

personally i think 2 batteries would just be more of a headache.i had 2 batteries in my old nissan and they just made my alt work harder til it was fried. didnt stop the headlight dim i had either. instead of buying a second battery I'd put that money toward a HO alt and big 3 upgrade.

 

[freemind]

You will need a battery isolator in order to run 2 batteries.
I figured that you are on a pretty hard core budget when you posted that you run Pyle.

 

[alaskanzx5]

get 2 yellow tops one under the hood and one in the trunk from the one in the trunk run power and ground to you cap then from you cap to your amp. hook up a volt meter to the battery in the trunk turn it up and watch the volts for about 5 mins, make sure thaty atleast stay above 13v if not srry but big 3 and ho alt might be the only option. if it stays above 13v then it will do while you put some wires together for a big 3 and proplem will be should be solved. you realy dont want anything under 14v, but if it doesnt drop below 13v and you do a big 3 shortly after then it would be fine.
got a buddy runnning a rockford 2500bd birth sheet says 3360w rms 2 yellow tops, 10farad rockford digital cap and 4 t2 15s and never dropped below 13.5v. dont remember the truck he was using but the stock alt was a 90amp alt and he didnt even do a big 3.

 

[mikebontoft]

you realize the max amperage you could potentially pull from that is 333 amps right? That's at 4000w, but still possible. You're gonna need to improve it somewhere.... if you can't afford to I'd hold off on the system for a bit.

your 1000w system worked fine before because it only drew a max of 83 amps.

 

[sgtsmasher]

actually (freemind) i dont have a strict bugdet just cause you waste your money on (top named brand shit) doesnt mean that its the best and going to blow everything else away...trust me...granted yes the more expensive shit works good but the lower priced stuff works just as good and i know cause ive been using the stuff for a while with no problems other then the entire system being under powered by the alt and batt

 

[Mother Focus]

Replace the battery, starter and alt wires for 1/0, do the big 3 make sure those grounds are solid. If interested I have a Bosch HO alt with 400 miles on it, (have 2 of them using the other) already replaced the regulator for a Motorcraft on both. You can buy it BNIB but the regulators won't work with our ECU, learned it the hard way. PM for details.

 

[mitchv]

This is what you should do.
1. Sell that cap to some idiot on craigslist as they do absolutely nothing
2. Do the big 3 upgrade with 0 gauge.
3. Run 0 gauge back to your amp and 0 gauge ground.
4. if the above 3 fail upgrade to a yellow top under the hood.
5.if the above 4 fail which I know damn sure they wont, get an extra Kinetic battery for around 80 bucks off amazon.
6. If for some un godly reason the above 5 do not work get an HO alt

 

[mitchv]

Or just get rid of your shitty pyle stuff

 

[freemind]

actually (freemind) i dont have a strict bugdet just cause you waste your money on (top named brand shit) doesnt mean that its the best and going to blow everything else away...trust me...granted yes the more expensive shit works good but the lower priced stuff works just as good and i know cause ive been using the stuff for a while with no problems other then the entire system being under powered by the alt and batt

Actually thin-skined smartass, I am trying to help you. I have spent a total of $1190.00 over a 3 year period building my system from the battery, HO Alt, deck, wires, amps, soundproofing, speakers and a sub in a box. Half of my system is used products. I am a single Dad with bills. So when you say that you have been doing systems for years, I highly doubt it.

Stop being a know it all and listen to advice.

Your life will become much better.

 

[02Zetechse]

I'd do big 3 upgrade ,0 gauge front to rear...and see where that puts you ....I highly doubt your amplifier puts out anywhere near 1500rms even ...I'm running 1800 rms on stock battery with big 3 and 0 gauge and barely drop under 12 volts full tilt and my amplifier has been clamped at 2k rms at 1/2ohm and draws way more current than that Pyle crap

 

[alaskanzx5]

look we can argue or we can give our advice and let him make the choice. if you choose to argue then good for you, you just won the trophy staying that you are a 16 year old girl.

now a cap works the same as a battery it hold power, yes caps can cost more but allow for the amp to pull power faster. batteries and caps drain quickly, if you want to use a cap get a cap that is said to handle atleast twice as much as your amp takes. if your using batteries get some yellow tops they do wonders. think about it if our alts do 110amps and the car takes what 80-90 amp that only leaves 20-30 amps that good for what? 300 watts? add a battery the alt still has to charge it, add a cap and the alt has to charge it. in the end the only good option and best option would be a ho alt. if your alt can not keep up with what needs to be charged/powered then it will not matter how many batteries you have. the big 3 does help the power travel faster and smoother but will still only let the alt put out its max. im not sure on the exact numbers but lets just say that the alt puts out 110 amps at about 2k rpms every minute. now your car is taking 90 amps so that leaves your stereo with 20 amps every minute. if your amp is pulling 100 amps per minute those extra batteries are dead, cap dead, alt working hard to keep up. car loosing power every time your amp pulls power. your not just hurting the amp or loudness/quality your hurting your car and its entire electrical system. best option, ho alt. helpfull preventive measures big 3, batteries, caps.

 

[02Zetechse]

There are so many variables to this ...it's his choice I gave my advice and experience

 

[crice8]

I ran through this delima last fall. The solution I found is it's not all about watts! My system right now is 600rms and that's it, but it blows most of the setups around here away. My last setup even had a bat cap 2000 model in it which yesit helped but essentially your alt can only put out 110 amps so your going to kill it fast. Extra batteries stricly work in situations such as a show where the car is off but look at some of the setups people have. I've seen people only running 2000 rms and they have like 10 big kinetics batteries in the vehicle. All of the stuff you can put in, bats, caps,bigger wires. It is all like putting a bandaid on the problem. You have two solutions, one get a ho alt, or two do I like I did and get a fully digital amp. Like one guy on here said, pyle is junk. It is a cheap crap brand. You pay for what your get. There is a reason that you can buy a cheap Pyle 4000 watt amp for like 140 bucks. Buy you a digital alpine amp and you won't have any more power problems trust me I have no extra batteries or caps and with the fogs on, brights on, and bass slammin my lights dont dim

 

[Gazookz]

You are wrong there on what you said about caps and batteries, alaskanzx5. Caps do indeed store power, but the power is depleted within one second. But batteries do not store power, they create it. It has to do with the plates inside the battery that create the power. Caps are mostly only beneficial because people put them next to their amp in the trunk or wherever. That allows it to draw more quickly from the cap than having to travel all the way to the front battery/alt.

And as far as it being about power(watts), it also depends how efficient your amp is. You can run 600 watts off a 4 ohm load and have no problems what-so-ever from your amp. The reason being that your amp is a lot more efficient at that load than at a lower one. If you have 600 watts off a 1 ohm load, your amp is less efficient, therefore drawing more current than before to get the same output of 600 watts. A lot of that power lost transforms to heat. That's why you feel your amp getting warm/hot at lower impedance loads than at a higher one. (I'm saying this as if you had the same power output at each load.)

I would take the same steps everyone else has mentioned already. So start with the "big 3" upgrade. If you still have problems, check your grounds, or add a few extra under the hood. The next step would be to invest in a new starter battery for under the hood. You can check out Optima batteries or anything similar. Those tend to work good, and also have a nice warranty if anything goes wrong! If you don't get an optima, try to shoot for something with a high AH rating and crank amps.

Of course a HO alternator would definately benefit. But make sure you get one with a high output at idle. Even though your alternator at stock puts out 110A max, thats at a higher RPM. Who really drives at high rpm's all day or wants to rev the engine to listen to music? A HO alternator will still not benefit that much without doing the big 3 with 1/0 gauge. My alt can put out 200A at idle, or 270 at around 2k-2.5k rpm's. Even with that, there is still voltage drop, and I have a optima under the hood, shuriken bt-100 in the trunk, all 1/0 wire, including big 3, and several grounding points. The drop in voltage is only one tenth or two tenths of a volt, but still present. Doesn't do anything like dim lights since it's so small, but still. Now if I rev the engine, no voltage drop at all.

I would save the alternator for last unless you have several hundred dollars for a decent alternator. In all, do the big 3 and get a new starting battery before you get a HO alternator.

 

[02Zetechse]

A xs power D3400 will fit under the hood also

 

[crice8]

You are wrong there on what you said about caps and batteries, alaskanzx5. Caps do indeed store power, but the power is depleted within one second. But batteries do not store power, they create it. It has to do with the plates inside the battery that create the power. Caps are mostly only beneficial because people put them next to their amp in the trunk or wherever. That allows it to draw more quickly from the cap than having to travel all the way to the front battery/alt.

And as far as it being about power(watts), it also depends how efficient your amp is. You can run 600 watts off a 4 ohm load and have no problems what-so-ever from your amp. The reason being that your amp is a lot more efficient at that load than at a lower one. If you have 600 watts off a 1 ohm load, your amp is less efficient, therefore drawing more current than before to get the same output of 600 watts. A lot of that power lost transforms to heat. That's why you feel your amp getting warm/hot at lower impedance loads than at a higher one. (I'm saying this as if you had the same power output at each load.)

I would take the same steps everyone else has mentioned already. So start with the "big 3" upgrade. If you still have problems, check your grounds, or add a few extra under the hood. The next step would be to invest in a new starter battery for under the hood. You can check out Optima batteries or anything similar. Those tend to work good, and also have a nice warranty if anything goes wrong! If you don't get an optima, try to shoot for something with a high AH rating and crank amps.

Of course a HO alternator would definately benefit. But make sure you get one with a high output at idle. Even though your alternator at stock puts out 110A max, thats at a higher RPM. Who really drives at high rpm's all day or wants to rev the engine to listen to music? A HO alternator will still not benefit that much without doing the big 3 with 1/0 gauge. My alt can put out 200A at idle, or 270 at around 2k-2.5k rpm's. Even with that, there is still voltage drop, and I have a optima under the hood, shuriken bt-100 in the trunk, all 1/0 wire, including big 3, and several grounding points. The drop in voltage is only one tenth or two tenths of a volt, but still present. Doesn't do anything like dim lights since it's so small, but still. Now if I rev the engine, no voltage drop at all.

I would save the alternator for last unless you have several hundred dollars for a decent alternator. In all, do the big 3 and get a new starting battery before you get a HO alternator.

You are definately wrong here sir. Batteries Do NOT create power? If that were the case all of these eco cars would never need to be charged. What would be the point of an alternator? i am going to assume that your going to say that the battery cannot produce "energy" fast enough to keep up?
And to the rev engine comment also shows you have no clue how a alternator and battery operate. an alternator is not actually feeding the battery or electrical system until "depending on the alt and vehicle" a minimum of 3000rpms and even then it takes a significant amount of time. Thats why extra batteries are a bandaid for the problem because for alot of people that just do round town driving the battery isnt getting time to charge.