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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My SVT hit 86K miles the other day, I am noticing clutch engagement isn't as smooth as it used to be, it might be down too the original passenger engine mount, as I have replaced the other two a couple of weeks ago and not that one.

However, I think this coming spring I am going to replace the clutch and flywheel, I have a mechanic friend that says he will help me out with it, and I have done a clutch on my old SVT Contour.

I have never done an aftermarket Flywheel before, but from what I read on here everybody seems to rant and rave about the amazing drivability differences between the stock heavy dual mass for a lightened fidanza or similar dual mass.

After doing research it seems the best bang for buck is the Fidanza, but I can't find a confirmation anywhere that says what kind of clutches work with it, I assume I can use any clutch designed for the SVT Focus, which I probably in that case would go with a stock one since I get a preferred discount at the local Ford dealership (its nice to know people [cheers] ). But can any shed some light on it? Does a Fidanza dual mass flywheel work with the stock SVT Focus clutch? I don't really plan on any big power adders, I probably won't ever break 170 whp after the few bolt ons and tune that I plan next year.

I ask because being a long term member of the SVT Contour community, a lot of people had major issues with practically any after market clutch, specifically the Spec clutches, and anybody I knew who used one of the heavily uprated clutches really struggled to get anything more than 10-15K miles out of them. My SVT Contour had a stock SVT clutch that I ran for about 30K miles on the 2.5L motor and another 20K on the 3.0L that never gave me a single issue, and when the 3L went in the car was making 202 whp. roughly 30 more than stock.

Any insight and knowledge would greatly be appreciated.
 

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I'd go with a clutch/flywheel 'kit' rather than mix and match yourself...they can be very specific to the SVT, application wise...
I put in a Southbend Stage 1 kit in mine...have yet to drive it though. But from what I've heard, it's a great setup (if a little loud at times).
I think it uses a modified Fidenza flywheel, and the pressure plate is off an Audi A4, so yeah, buy a complete clutch/flywheel combo rather than put one together yourself.
 

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I bought this kit for my SVT after it crapped out at FF '11. It comes with a Flywheel, Clutch, Slave Cylinder and Alignment tool. It's the cheapest I've found one too.

LUK Clutch
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I bought this kit for my SVT after it crapped out at FF '11. It comes with a Flywheel, Clutch, Slave Cylinder and Alignment tool. It's the cheapest I've found one too.

LUK Clutch
I considered doing just a stock replacement clutch, if I don't get a solid enough answer about my Flywheel/clutch combination question I just might go that route. But the way I have calculated it, if I can get my Ford discount on the clutch and pay $300 for a fidanza, it ends up costing me a little more to get a better flywheel. then going the LUK route. It would be worth it too me, maybe fidanza can tell me more.
 

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i put a stg-3 clutchmasters in my svt... like it better than stock

got the kit from CFM it came with:
stg3 pressure plate
..... kevlar disk
slave cylinder
11lb alumanum flywheel w/replacible friction plate
alinment tool

i did have a problem with the flywheel haveing the wrong ring gear but they fix it at there expence
 

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I was worried about the wrong ring gear on my SB clutch/flywheel, as I think another member also had that issue! I engaged the starter motor as soon as I got it in the car to be sure...
 

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I think the problem may be that you did not replace the other motor mount, especially if you went after market on the new ones. I have always read that the driver and passenger mounts need to be replaced as a set, while the dogbone mount is fine if done by itself. Might try that first as it will be a helluva a lot cheaper in the short run. I'm over 100K on the original, pre-TSB clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I think the problem may be that you did not replace the other motor mount, especially if you went after market on the new ones. I have always read that the driver and passenger mounts need to be replaced as a set, while the dogbone mount is fine if done by itself. Might try that first as it will be a helluva a lot cheaper in the short run. I'm over 100K on the original, pre-TSB clutch.
You probably are right about that, I never replaced the passenger side mount, nor have I really even inspected it. I noticed that the vibration is worse if I have the air conditioning on (more load on the motor), and it isn't as bad when I use reverse.

I still plan on doing a clutch this spring, but I think I should inspect this mount and maybe contact Steve and see what kind of price he gives on the passenger side mount.

Any signs I should look for? If the mount is failing will these definitely be liquid coming from it?
 
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