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Supercharged
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Discussion Starter #1
I remember when I first got my SVT that it shifted perfect and I loved it. Now at 30,000 miles the gears are starting to grind in between shifts. I am not quite sure if there is air in my clutch or not.

I changed the transmission fluid but I undid the clutch bleed by mistake. (Don’t ask)

I have bled the clutch about 4 times with a one man bleeder kit. The brake fluid looked good at the time of bleeding.

Could I still have air in the clutch? Or did I mess up the throw out bearing bleeding it? (Due to continuous pumping) It shifted fine before I messed with it...[B)] Last night 3rd grinded going in and I never grind gears and that is how I know something is wrong.

Should I order the brake line bleeder? http://www.focussport.com/brakebleeder.htm
I heard that air can get caught in the system but I have gravity bled it 4 times.
 

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You may need to reset the linkage.
 

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Yeah i kinda have the same prob. Sometimes my gear Wont shift into 3rd it will get stuck it wont grind and the clutch is all the way down but it wont go in after a couple trys it does but WTF??? Another thing i dont have to press the clutch to take it out of gear is this bad any help or suggestions greatly appreciated?

SORRY TO THREAD SNATCH??? just thought the problems mighta been somewhat linked
 

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Dragon Warrior
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309 Posts
you know when you bleed the clutch it has to be reverse bled.

Using a suitable syringe, remove brake fluid from the brake fluid reservoir until the brake fluid level is at the MIN mark.

Remove the clutch slave cylinder bleed nipple dust cap.

Using a vacuum pump set to push fluid through, bleed the clutch system.
1 Fill the reservoir of the special tool with approximately 100 ml of new Super DOT 4 brake fluid.
2 Connect the reservoir hose to the clutch slave cylinder bleed nipple.
3 Loosen the clutch slave cylinder bleed nipple.
4 Pump approximately 80 ml of the brake fluid into the clutch system.

Tighten the clutch slave cylinder bleed nipple.
Remove the special tool.

Install the clutch slave cylinder bleed nipple dust cap.
Check the fluid level in the brake fluid reservoir and top up as necessary with Super DOT 4 brake fluid.
Install the brake fluid reservoir cap.
 

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JRODSVT said:
you know when you bleed the clutch it has to be reverse bled.

wow...I have never heard something so completely wrong. while some manufacturers may have this kind of bleed procedure for their setups, the svt focus does not have a system like this. bleed it as you would normally bleed it. have a buddy pump the pedal a couple times and hold the pedal down while you crack the bleeder open. that's ford's procedure for bleeding the slave cylinder.
 

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Supercharged
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Discussion Starter #8
I have got a motive power bleeder coming. Hopefully this will help me now and in the future.
 

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Dragon Warrior
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309 Posts
wow...I have never heard something so completely wrong. while some manufacturers may have this kind of bleed procedure for their setups, the svt focus does not have a system like this. bleed it as you would normally bleed it. have a buddy pump the pedal a couple times and hold the pedal down while you crack the bleeder open. that's ford's procedure for bleeding the slave cylinder.
when I flushed my brakes and clutch for the track, I tried the normal bleeding procedure and I ended up with very much air in my clutch so I bled the clutch again and still tons of air. I then broke out the vacuum pump and bled again and still had air. So I went to alldatapro.com and checked the clutch bleeding procedure and what I posted is what came up. This is the only thing that worked and I will continue to do it this way. Maybe you don't have to do this procedure to get it done right.

Lord knows factory manuals have been wrong so online reproductions of factory manuals have an increased chance of being wrong. I know this works and is not hard to do at all and you can do it by yourself. All data has no other bleeding procedure listed clutch and is only called the clutch system bleeding procedure.

Even if this is the slave cylinder bleeding procedure, the last time I checked the bleeder valve is on top of the slave cylinder. You are bleeding the slave cylinder when you have a buddy pump and you crack the bleeder valve.

Maybe you don't have to reverse bleed I concede that. But it does work.
 

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Anyone getting loud shifts as well? Not gear grinding, but the an odd grinding sound getting into first. The rest seem to be fairly smooth, but throwing it into first, even slowly sometimes feels kind of like a very weak lockout. Anybody else?

Kind of a hijack, but on topic. thanks.
 

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Supercharged
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Discussion Starter #11
JRODSVT said:
when I flushed my brakes and clutch for the track, I tried the normal bleeding procedure and I ended up with very much air in my clutch so I bled the clutch again and still tons of air. I then broke out the vacuum pump and bled again and still had air. So I went to alldatapro.com and checked the clutch bleeding procedure and what I posted is what came up. This is the only thing that worked and I will continue to do it this way. Maybe you don't have to do this procedure to get it done right.

Lord knows factory manuals have been wrong so online reproductions of factory manuals have an increased chance of being wrong. I know this works and is not hard to do at all and you can do it by yourself. All data has no other bleeding procedure listed clutch and is only called the clutch system bleeding procedure.

Even if this is the slave cylinder bleeding procedure, the last time I checked the bleeder valve is on top of the slave cylinder. You are bleeding the slave cylinder when you have a buddy pump and you crack the bleeder valve.

Maybe you don't have to reverse bleed I concede that. But it does work.
I could hook my motive power bleeder up to it to reverse bleed it if I can find an adapter. I will try it if it doesn't work the normal way. I know bleeding it by pumping it is just going to wear out my throwout bearing and resulting in a bunch of tiny bubbles. Geeze...
 
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