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Lurking
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well my car has been down for about a week now and i couldn't find out WTF was wrong with it. at first i thought it was an axle but after getting my car jacked up i started to think that was not the case so i figured today i would take it to my girls work and let her boss look at it since he use to work for SVT. so i was on my way up their and on I75 at about 75MPH+ i started to get a bad wheel shake so i looked out the car to see a lug nut flying off my left front rim so i pulled off as fast as i could came to a halt so fast i sheared two bolts off the hub so i have spent the day and the better half of $200 to fix it..... here are the pix i took......













so with a new hub on the car oh and after replacing a shattered axle barring the fofo runs great... oh and to make this day better on one of my runs to the ford house so guy didn't yeld to me as i came off the high way and hit my girls car so now we are going to have to replace the bumper headlight and fender. fun day im going to go get [:)][:)][:)][:)][:)][:)]g drunk now. [goofydrunk]
 

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Wow, what a mess, well, at least the wheel didn't go flying in traffic...Been there, done that.
 

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damn dude that sucks at least no one got hurt...that could have ended really bad.
 

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I did a search on this to see if anybody else is having this issue, I guess I'm not alone. On Friday this happened to me on the way to work. What's with the studs braking like this on SVTs? I did another search on the jet. Someone over there said that we can use the RS hub. It's a little stronger then the SVT. Anyone on here do the RS upgrade on their SVT?
 

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how did two studs break? Seems the studs break fairly easy. I tighten my lugs to 92ft/lbs and sometimes when i go to remove a wheel the lug just feels seized to the damn stud... i broke one already.
 

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Studs usually only break if the take an unnormal load..Such as loose lug nuts, a bad wheel bearing, etc.
 

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Did you really have to replace the hub? The studs are not hard to replace because I did this without replacing the hub. A stud can only go in and out in a certain quadrant, either top left or top right, but I can't remember. If you look behind the hub, you will know what I am talking about. The thing is you would have to compress it in because tolerances are tight. Anyway, we are glad you are ok and the fofo is now ok.
 

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how did two studs break? Seems the studs break fairly easy. I tighten my lugs to 92ft/lbs and sometimes when i go to remove a wheel the lug just feels seized to the damn stud... i broke one already.
Probably, the wheels since aftermarket need hub centric rings for a perfect fit.
 

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how do i take the hub out to replace a stud, i took the rotor, and center nut off and now the hub wont come off, any tips?
 

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I had the same problem on my rear brakes. I finally pulled ALL the studs and replaced every one of them with aftermarket studs. The original ones were goldish in color, the replacement studs were black. Both are supposed to be hardened steel, however I kinda like the dark colored steel over the gold galvanized type.

I tighten my lugs because I'm a freak about loose wheels, so I know why mine broke.
 

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how do i take the hub out to replace a stud, i took the rotor, and center nut off and now the hub wont come off, any tips?
You didn't even have to take the big nut out. All you have to do is take the rotor out, look behind the hub and you will see a slot where it would let the stud to come out and in, once you find the slot hammer the stud out and press a new one in and you're done. Remember to torque down the big nut you took off. I am not sure of the specs but if you don't, then the bearings might go bad really fast. Let me know if this helps.
 

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I have had to replace ALL of my front axle studs both sides. Seems whenever I had tires rotated and balanced, the morons overtightened the nuts on the studs and the stud fused to the nut.

For future reference, I know how to replace them in about 15-20. there is a slot in the caliper (like a half moon shape). With a piece of wood and a hammer, bang the old stud out (its pressed in). Have new stud handy. Slip through half moon. With several washers (like 1-2 in worth) and using one of your new lug nuts, tighten the nut down on the stud. It will grab and pull it tight. Loosen, put wheel on, tighten again and your good to go! This has worked on all 8!
 

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Same problem for me and here is the problem and the solution at the same time.

A lot of us (me included) run aftermarket wheels.

With most of them, there is a hub centering ring that is usually made of plastic or aluminum that fits into the center of the wheel.

If that ring is not present, becomes damaged - or in my case MELTS, the wheel can move across the surface of the hub and work the lug nuts loose.

As the nuts become loose, the wheel begins to "saw" the studs and eventually, they break off.

I nearly lost a wheel at 90MPH at a track event in the middle of a sweeping corner. That's a little more excitement than I would care to enjoy or repeat.

So, STEEL centering rings are a good idea if you run aftermarket wheels.

I had mine done with a local shop and found out that Massive carries them.
 
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Yep, to replace studs simply install the stud, then the wheel, and use the lug nut to pull the stud into place. The problem is when the stud won't go through the wheel. The last time I did mine I had some open ended nuts I used on the hub to bring the stud out far enough so I could put the wheel on and get the nut on the stud.
 

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I have had to replace ALL of my front axle studs both sides. Seems whenever I had tires rotated and balanced, the morons overtightened the nuts on the studs and the stud fused to the nut.

For future reference, I know how to replace them in about 15-20. there is a slot in the caliper (like a half moon shape). With a piece of wood and a hammer, bang the old stud out (its pressed in). Have new stud handy. Slip through half moon. With several washers (like 1-2 in worth) and using one of your new lug nuts, tighten the nut down on the stud. It will grab and pull it tight. Loosen, put wheel on, tighten again and your good to go! This has worked on all 8!
I said the same thing basically, but you explained a lot better than I did. Rep points your way.[wave]
 

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Yep, to replace studs simply install the stud, then the wheel, and use the lug nut to pull the stud into place. The problem is when the stud won't go through the wheel. The last time I did mine I had some open ended nuts I used on the hub to bring the stud out far enough so I could put the wheel on and get the nut on the stud.
I had to replace on stud on mine, and that's the way I did it. Simple job.
 

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I have to replace 1 stud on the front left wheel. Is there a how-to written on this? I have a haynes manual but not in front of me (at work currently)
 

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Briandg510 explained it perfectly above. Thats just how I did it ( I had one break). I hammered the old one out, and pressed the new one in with tapping in in place with a brass hammer, and then pulled it through with a nut.
 

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I've been told this countless times in the past two weeks. It's a good habit to tighten all your lugnuts to spec with a torque wrench every single time. When you over torque the stud it can stretch and this weakens it, leading to a broken stud. There are other reasons but over tightening is the main problem and most preventable.
 
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