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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just swapped out the old fuel pump of my 01 focus to the newer style design. After opening my tank I can see the flaw in the 00-02 pump design, it rotates into the floor bracket and mine was not seated in the bracket properly. Here are pictures of the old style pump to give those taking on the swap a better understanding of what that 310-133 does.

Here is a view of the bottom of the pump and the floor bracket.


This is a bottom view of how my pump was sitting when I got the tank out, you'll notice it it raised, rotated and no longer lining up the hole in the pump to the hole in the floor bracket.


Here is a picture of the tabs holding the bracket down, this is what you are cutting to remove the bracket. I cut the top of them off, pulled out the bracket and cut them down flush to the floor of the tank. It is pretty soft plastic, it was easy to carefully cut using a utility knife. Just take it slow and careful to not slip and cut the bottom.


There are four tabs at each corner.
 

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Thank you for the pictures, this helped as I just pulled mine (though I wish I'd know sooner that the old pump simply rotated free.

I didn't but the supports flush as they didn't seem to interfere with the Carter P75047M pump I had purchased... here's to hoping I don't regret not doing it.

Does the 310-133 cut flush?
 

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I just did this as well on an early 02, installed the Carter P75047M. I started by lifting the back seat and cutting a hole in the floor to get convenient access, used a jigsaw with short blades, taking care for the wires. I removed the old pump and saw the same bracket on the bottom of the tank. I put the Carter pump in and it worked, except the fuel gauge did not work.

I took it out and then pried the bracket off the bottom of the tank, tried to cut it but it was too stiff. That left four black tabs that held the bracket. I cut off the two of them facing the back of the car as they may still be high enough to interfere with the fuel gauge. Putting the Carter pump back in there are 2 tabs at the collar that fit slots that need to be aligned. I tried to just use the old fuel line but it did not fit the new coupling. So I used the hose that came with the pump to go from the pump to the fuel filter.

Checked for leaks and put duct tape over the hole, although I doubt the duct tape was necessary. Not an easy job, I omitted some frustration and a little cursing from this summary... Works fine now. I can turn right again without the car wanting to stall. I just missed the extended warranty on both the 10 years and on the mileage. I had seen a recall mentioned on the carfax printout, but did not understand if it applied back then.
 

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Hey Midpath, I've experienced this problem when I bought a 2001 Ford Focus a couple of years ago. Is was half full of fuel and operated the same way as most describe when we drove it home enroute to fill up the tank. I barely made it to the gas station and after filling it it rarely did it again until recently. I replaced the fuel filter and was astonished at the amount of crap that came out of it. it has helped but is still doing it so, contemplating dropping the tank to investigate. Can the fdm screens/filters be blown out or cleaned and then reinstalled or does the replacement unit have to be installed to fix the problem. The pictures sort of show the tabs the 310-133 tool are supposed to cut off but I'm a little unclear of how it's all incorporated without more detailed pictures or hands on visual and actual application. Guess I'll have to take it apart to see for myself. Hopefully someone may be able to post better pictures of the tabs inside the tank and what has to be removed in order to replace old style with new one, and apparently there are several styles as replacements?
I also have a 2002 focus wagon with the same engine Z-tec and to date I haven't experienced this problem (might have been already replaced) but I'll assume it may have the same design flaw?
 

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It may, both my '00 and '02 had the same early pump and both messed up. If you get it out and clean screens before you drive it forever with the problem then just cleaning the screens will fix it. Once driven long enough with the clog though the pump will wear from the lack of fuel, they are fuel cooled and lubed.

I just now changed one finally at around 200K miles, it had been cleaned once around 75K and ran fine until it just quit all at once. The other car still running after years with one cleanout done to it. I put a second design pump w/no module in the early module and can easily say DON'T TRY IT, the differences are many and if you think you are just going to cram it in there you will have a BIG surprise coming if you do. I had to change like 10 different things to do so, although mine runs fine. It is NOT a drop-in, no, no, no, it isn't.

The early design can pop out of the snap-in retention if the tank bottom is struck on the car. The bottom pickup point clogs much easier than the slightly higher lifted second design and the early inside strainer also is too tall and then can run out of fuel too if pump module happens to run a bit low. The second design has that inside strainer located much lower in its' entirety.
 

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FDN 2001 Ford Fous

Hi again, well it seems to be running much better now since I replaced the fuel filter, but still surges a bit and stumbles when in neutral and under acceleration but does rev a bit higher than before. I'm sure It will become clearer once I am able to remove the tank and remove the FDM. I was a little confused by the pictures but think I comprehend the situation with the old style FDM being basically bottom mounted (or sitting in a holder of sorts close the bottom of the tank hence the clogging of the screen from crap inside the holding ring and being on the bottom, as compared to the revised replacement which is hung from the top and therefore is situated somewhat higher off the bottom).
My question is however, what is involved in replacing the old style wit the new on? Is the 300-133 tool used to basically cut the retaining holder or ... from the bottom of the tank or... I'm currently trying to empty the tank and an at about 1/4 so hopefully if weather permits I'll be able to attempt it tomorrow as I work outside in the drive for now. From what I've seen from your posts and pic sis that the old style sits at the bottom of the tank in that circular holder which then allows the pump to sit slightly off the bottom of the tank and this is where the clog occurs. The new style is hung from the top of the mounting ring at the top of the tank and therefore is held significantly higher than the old style presumably avoiding the clogging and also presumably redesigned filter and intake so as to also avoid clogging?[twothumbs]
 

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My 2002 Focus wagon hasn't experienced this problem yet but I do have another problem that is common with these cars as well. it's a warm slightly rough idle and I have a printout of a remedy which seems to involve some vacuum line of some sort which is under the coil and runs along the back of the engine. I have yet to hear any significant leak or locate visually (without removing coil) any such line. I was told by a local garage that a simple remedy involves using an ls park plug boot slid over the potential connection or area involved which fixes the problem. Before this rough idle (which developed shortly after I bought it) it seemed to reduce the fuel mileage. Have you experienced any problem such as this as well? The 2000 Focus doesn't have this problem (same engine Z-Tec but I did find a line going to the e-vap device on the firewall (a small 1/8 line) had rubbed a hole in it from chafing against one of the other larger lines that had the plastic loom over it so I taped it with electrical tape tightly and that stopped that leak. This leak wasn't affecting idle however so...
 

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ALL early Focus zetec can have that rear pcv hose mess up. A spark plug boot will not help if the line has collapsed shut. New hose needed there.

Both the early and late pumps end up in the exact same place on the tank floor, one snaps in to the ring, the later one simply spring loaded to contact the bottom at the same height. The difference is in the strainer locations. The early module commonly unsnaps the strainer circle at impact on bottom of tank to let it move sideways and no filtering going on then, all trash then goes into module interior.
 

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[ffrocks]HELP ASAP! I need a photo of what the bottom of the tank looks like after all 4 of the black tabs have been cut, and after the ring has been removed, but BEFORE the remaining part of the black tabs have been removed. Anybody have that picture?

I need it because my mechanic friend has the tank dropped out of my 2001 SE wagon (zetec) and I brought him the new pump (the redesigned one with the spring bars for stability) and he won't attempt to remove the ring from the bottom of the tank (even with these instructions that you folks kindly provided). He believes THIS car has a ring that is glued down in the middle so there is no way that cutting the tabs will work. I need to show him how the tabs attach to the bottom of the tank and the ring simply comes loose when the upper parts of the tabs release the ring.

Thanks!
 

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Scroll up to top of this thread and pics are there.............
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I don't have any pictures of the inside of the tank, but here are two pics of the inside of a the same kind of tank I found on google

 

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The pump module only has to be able to sit reasonably flat there is all, you do what it takes to get that. The spring top then holds the module relatively in place.
 

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Does anybody know where I should cut the access panel for focus 2001 SE Wagon? Is it in the middle under the back sit or it's closer to the right door? Wagon doesn't have wire coming thru the metal so I am not sure. Couldn't find any images/videos related to wagon
 

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My wagon has that wire 'coming through metal' plain as day. Pump on pass side not in center.
 

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http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/...6213-how-cut-fuel-pump-access-panel-door.html

My '00 wagon used the exact same location to cut mine. Take special note of pics 5 and 6 there counting down. They show the evap hose and how close you are cutting to it to very possibly damge it especially at the pass side rear of the hole. I unbolted the tank at the one mounting bolt and unthreaded it almost all the way loose to lower tank for more cutting room there. You can clearly see the wiring going into a hole in the cut out piece.
 
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