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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Ok, so I couldn't put the belt on especially with my brother's help. I was able to rotate about 180 degree turn on the tensioner with the 13mm box wrench on while using the 14mm wrench for the leverage as I was underneath the car and my brother was trying his hardest to slip onto the power steering pump pulley. I've checked the belt diagram and made sure everything was lined up as straight as possible while we were wrestling with the belt. I've done a timing chain job in my F150 and successfully put everything back on with the pulley and was able to get thr belt on no problem, but this goddamn focus is driving me nuts.
 

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Sounds like the belt may be too small. The new belt that was too small for me matched up pretty well to the belt that came off with slight diff due to being new and stiff - but it did not fit. Even put a dab of wd40 to try to help slide it over a smooth pulley, nope. I also put the old belt back on just to make sure. Never figured out if it was a defective belt or I picked up something was not as advertised.

As said, I have always used that hex head with one box wrench (which is more convenient) to move the tensioner without breaking it. I've only ever broken that hex head on a camry tensioner probably due to not having the socket on snug and tensioner harder to get to - then I had to use the center bolt head.
 

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Font Circle Auto part Diagram Parallel


Put the belt around All the pulleys except the Idler (#1) once you get your tensioner in position, have someone slide the belt under the idler then slowly release the tension on the tensioner. If your trying to slip the grove side over any of the pulleys you're gonna have a bad time.
 
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Power steering is a hard one to do. From what a recall, there's a big lip on the edge of that pulley. As others suggested, I've found the smooth pulleys the easiest (like the water pump). I've also been successful going on the AC compressor last. The 88" belt is the correct length.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Sounds like the belt may be too small. The new belt that was too small for me matched up pretty well to the belt that came off with slight diff due to being new and stiff - but it did not fit. Even put a dab of wd40 to try to help slide it over a smooth pulley, nope. I also put the old belt back on just to make sure. Never figured out if it was a defective belt or I picked up something was not as advertised.

As said, I have always used that hex head with one box wrench (which is more convenient) to move the tensioner without breaking it. I've only ever broken that hex head on a camry tensioner probably due to not having the socket on snug and tensioner harder to get to - then I had to use the center bolt head.
You were exactly right. After attempting to get the belt on ealier today with two box wrenches and accidentally smashing my helper's hand since the idler is right above it. I went ahead and brought another belt, slip it on by myself by sliding it over the Coolent Pump Pulley. Welp, I had to get him back out here just so he can help me get it all straighten out evenly. Guess I've learned the hard way and I'm very glad y'all help me out on here. Very classy and well supported.
 

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Good you got it! And maybe the belt was the right size but old and lost some elasticity - had a few instances that rubberized parts stiffened and did not work properly maybe due to age (eg. old gaskets).
 

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You were exactly right. After attempting to get the belt on ealier today with two box wrenches and accidentally smashing my helper's hand since the idler is right above it. I went ahead and brought another belt, slip it on by myself by sliding it over the Coolent Pump Pulley. Welp, I had to get him back out here just so he can help me get it all straighten out evenly. Guess I've learned the hard way and I'm very glad y'all help me out on here. Very classy and well supported.
Glad you got it! For how much of a regular repair swapping a sept belt is, it's a real PITA on the Focus with the little room between the inner fender/frame and pulleys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Okay, so the whole thing got started with a bad power steering pump. It cracked and leaked out until it went bone dried then the belt came loose. So...therefore, I replaced the Power Steering Pump and the pressure hose, because it literally seized up in there which mean I had to cut thr line off with a cutting wheel grinder. I replaced both parts, tried wrestling with this belt that gave me hell and thought I had broke the tensioner, so I kept replacing it, but ended up returning every one of them after 4th attempt and then I put the original one back on and then brought the 2nd serpentine belt. Finally, I was able to slip it onto the water pump and then I had to wait until morning to get a new battery. Started up, it was making whining sounds, so I jacked it up and turn the wheel left to right several times until the noises went away, but my car is over heating..I did had to remove the coolent hose and yes I did reconnect it with a new clamp with the bolt head on it...so did my coolent pump just went out too or what's going on? I did refill the coolent to cold fill line..
 

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2004 ZX3 SVT EE 160k miles. 2004 ZX3 SVT 189k miles
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Okay, so the whole thing got started with a bad power steering pump. It cracked and leaked out until it went bone dried then the belt came loose. So...therefore, I replaced the Power Steering Pump and the pressure hose, because it literally seized up in there which mean I had to cut thr line off with a cutting wheel grinder. I replaced both parts, tried wrestling with this belt that gave me hell and thought I had broke the tensioner, so I kept replacing it, but ended up returning every one of them after 4th attempt and then I put the original one back on and then brought the 2nd serpentine belt. Finally, I was able to slip it onto the water pump and then I had to wait until morning to get a new battery. Started up, it was making whining sounds, so I jacked it up and turn the wheel left to right several times until the noises went away, but my car is over heating..I did had to remove the coolent hose and yes I did reconnect it with a new clamp with the bolt head on it...so did my coolent pump just went out too or what's going on? I did refill the coolent to cold fill line..
You have to bleed the air by running the engine at 2500 rpm with the overflow cap off for several minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
You have to bleed the air by running the engine at 2500 rpm with the overflow cap off for several minutes.
Did exactly what you told me and it is still overheating. When you said take the overflow cap off, did you mean the one on the coolent reservoir or radiator?
 

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Did exactly what you told me and it is still overheating. When you said take the overflow cap off, did you mean the one on the coolent reservoir or radiator?
I'm sorry. Your model doesn't operate like a mk1 or mk1.5. You may have a stuck thermostat.
 

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Even after overheating, the coolent level remains at cold fill line
So what? An overheat doesn't have to be accompanied by coolant loss. You could have the belt on wrong and rotating the water pump backwards.
 

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Even after overheating, the coolent level remains at cold fill line
That makes it sound like a stuck thermostat to me as well if it's never taking any coolant in. How long does it take to overheat? If very quick...it could be the reply above and belt routing is wrong (although it would be hard to get the belt to install with incorrect routing)
 

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That makes it sound like a stuck thermostat to me as well if it's never taking any coolant in. How long does it take to overheat? If very quick...it could be the reply above and belt routing is wrong (although it would be hard to get the belt to install with incorrect routing)
I've actually done this before. It wasn't hard at all
 
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