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Discussion Starter #1
Is this a "DIY" task or no? I'm new to Focus/SVT ownership, but have respectable garage and tool collection.

My mechanical aptitude is probably slightly above average. If I can do this job in an hour or two and save myself $100 or more in labor, then I'd like to do it myself. If it's a raging PITA job that I'll likely screw up on the first attempt, then the $100 bones is worth it.

I hope that makes sense! Feedback?

Thanks!

PS- I have a wholesale account at the local FoMoCo dealer...
 

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Once you've done it once it is cake, but you will need a press and some large sockets to press with.
Just make certain you install the bearing in the correct orientation or the ABS sensor won’t pick up the signal.
You may want to have a spare hub available in case you screw up and don’t have alternate transportation to pick up another.
Be careful when removing the knuckle from the lower control arm. An errant pry bar can rip the ball joint boot pretty easily.
If you don't have a press, the Ford tech can do the bearings in under 10 minutes.

Tools:
32MM socket (Axle nut)
8MM socket or wrench (ABS sensor)
13MM socket or wrench (Caliper )
15MM socket or wrench
T50 Torxbit ( Strut to knuckle)
T45 Torx bit (Caliper removal)
T30 Torx bit (Tie rod end)
½” Torque wrench
½” breaker bar
3/8” ratchet

Torque values:
axle nut 233 lb-ft
strut to knuckle 66lb-ft
Ball joint 37 lb-ft
Tie rod 35 lb-ft
Caliper to knuckle 85 lb-ft
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Cool- thanks. Recommendations on bearing? OEM or is there an equal/better aftermarket brand, ie Timken, etc.??

Thanks again.
 

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I've used both Ford and Timken and did not notice a difference. Just make certain the bearing is for an ABS car. Most bearings have the ABS ring but there are still some parts listings that don't.

From RockAuto:
The Timken number for the hub and bearing is: HA590263K
The SKF number for the hub and bearing is: BR930263K
The Timkin number for just the bearing is: 510056
I don't recall the Ford number as it came as part of a Ford Racing brake kit and was already pressed into the knuckle.
 

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PM me, I have a brand new bearing you can have. I had it for sale but no one seemed to want it and I want it out of my garage. As for the job, it is pretty easy. I did both mine recently, it probably took 3-4 hours INCLUDING running it to the machine shop to have the old bearings pressed out and new ones pressed in.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Soooo-
I bought the bearing from FoMoCo today.
I have a friend with a press.
I have all the tools listed above.
I have the day off tomorrow.
I have a serious Crown Royal buzz right now and my judgement is likely impaired, but EFF it! I think I'm gonna give it a shot!

The bearing is WIIIIDE! I noticed that one side is shiny, the other isn't. I'll probaby be able to figure out the bearing orientation when I have it apart, but which side has the ABS sensor? The shiny side or the not-shiny side? :)
 

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shiny side in towards the hub, i did this in my driveway a few months back, brought the knuckle to a shop to remove the bearing and press in the new one. got it back and the bearing was in backwards....the black(magnet) abs ring on the bearing faces out....make sure you line up the snap ring opening with the abs sensor hole....the shop f'd that up on me too. needless to say they bought me a new bearing and did the job twice...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
QUESTION- The inner "splined" race- does that need to be pressed in one specific way, or will it work either way it's installed? I suspect it'll only go ONE way, as my axle won't go into the splines the way the machine shop has it pressed in now. If I turn the hub around and push the axle in from the WRONG way, it'll accept the splines. CRAP. I suspect I know the answer here, and now the shop's closed for the day. So much for getting this done in ONE day!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
CRAP. Bearing replaced, but still have same howling noise. Definitely sounds like it's coming from right front (where I replaced bearing). Any other "common" SVT driveline components I should suspect? Doesn't sound like grinding, but more like a howl that increases with speed. Ugh!
 

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CRAP. Bearing replaced, but still have same howling noise. Definitely sounds like it's coming from right front (where I replaced bearing). Any other "common" SVT driveline components I should suspect? Doesn't sound like grinding, but more like a howl that increases with speed. Ugh!
Maybe try the other side?[dunno] I had to do the same thing to my contour and it ended up going away.
 

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CRAP. Bearing replaced, but still have same howling noise. Definitely sounds like it's coming from right front (where I replaced bearing). Any other "common" SVT driveline components I should suspect? Doesn't sound like grinding, but more like a howl that increases with speed. Ugh!


It's probably the passenger side axle carrier bearing making the noise your hearing. If you can get under the car and grab the axle and give it tug back and forth, if you have any play then it needs to be replaced.
 

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It's probably the passenger side axle carrier bearing making the noise your hearing. If you can get under the car and grab the axle and give it tug back and forth, if you have any play then it needs to be replaced.
^^this! I had that problem too, got both axels re-built and it went away, replaced both bearings first and didn't help lol
 

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A paperclip or some very light weight metal object will stick to one face of the bearing and not the other. The magnet goes toward the sensor.
 

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So, you have to press the bearing onto the hub and then press that complete unit into the knuckle? Is there anyway around pressing it into the knuckle if you have limited access to a press?
 

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Nope, bearing needs to be installed in the knuckle from the back side before the hub is slid in from the front one. Full size hole & circlip to hold the bearing in is at the back.

There are installation kits with sleeves,discs & threaded rod to pull & insert the bearings on the car, they'll work if the job goes smoothly.
 

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So, it's only the bearing that needs to be pressed onto the hub if I am hearing you correctly. I guess that from what I am reading is that the old hub/bearing assembly can be a pain to remove from the knuckle hence why a press is sometimes used?

Oh, I get it now.... The entire assembly needs to be pressed together since the bearing goes on one side of the knuckle while the hub slides onto the back of the knuckle. Looks like I'll be farming this one out.
 

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Still got it a bit backwards.

The bearing assembly (sleeved pair of bearings) is pressed in from the back with a circlip as an inner holder that needs to be located properly for the ABS sensor to poke through the gap in the circlip.

Hub slides into that assembly from the outside, inner splined tube section on the flat round part that hold the wheel studs is what slides through the bearings.

After the hub slides most of the way through the bearings, the axle slides into that hub from the inside. Bearings are squeezed between the inner face of the hub and the outer face of the CV joint as the axle is tightened. They aren't tight until the axle is torqued.

Removal of the bearing cassette requires the circlip to be removed and the bearings pressed inwards out of the steering knuckle. Reverse for installation, making sure to ONLY press on the bearing outer shell. Pressure on the inner race as required for removal destroys the bearings, so never do that for installation from the back.
 

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No worries, it will be going to the shop. Rather be able to do it ourselves but no access to a press. (another story for another day, ugh) At least they can beat the thing out of a 03my car that spent its life in the Northeast.

Thanks for the heads up!
 
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