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Old Phart
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G/L - freshly installed w/grease there's a decent chance of getting them out OK, if they feel fine they prob. are. (unfortunately only the guy doing it knows how easy they came out)

Old & dry in there, often break apart trying to press out so it takes cutting to get the old shell out.

I wouldn't be happy either, once in carefully is all the pressing you want to do on those.
 

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X2 Sailor. I screwed up putting the red to the signal only being told a lie. Complete tear down #2. The black side of the bearing goes to the ABS sensor. I might add to anyone trying this on their own that the C clip securing the bearing needs to be positioned so the abs sensor can drop in and bolt up. I screwed this up ONE time, I'll never do that again. I wouldn't trust pushing out a new bearing unless you Never Seized it before bearing installation. This isn't a big job even if you haven't a press. First time I used 3/4 " drive sockets and a piece of threaded stock bought from Home Depot. Burned them out with a 7024 Jet Rod. Cleaned the spindle knuckles with emery cloth. Good luck with this job. Remember that no body works cheaper than you. Save the bucks and take the little lady to a Valentine dinner.
 

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Well, the bearing smoothness seems fine (so far), but I noticed after my brother picked it up that they messed up the tone ring while pressing it out. They nicked the hub up a bit too, but luckily it didn't appear to affect installation (spline was fine). Since the car was in my brother's garage and I needed it for work I decided to just deal with replacing the bearing in a month or so.


For those that are wondering, if you have 1 bad (front) tone ring, you get an ABS light, No Hill Start Assist, and the speedometer shows 0 mph at all times. Unfortunately, the odometer still works. [rofl]

I'm just using my phone (Torque) to display my speed.

Also, EPAS feels reduced? It's harder to turn the steering wheel after the ABS light comes on (it goes off for a few feet after every restart). Before the light goes on the steering wheel is totally normal. Kind of weird! Also, I have to press/hold the power button for a little longer than usual for the car to turn off. I'm kind of hoping that's just some weird side effect of the ABS light as well.

Here's a plot of the ABS wheel speeds - it's actually my right front wheel ABS tone ring that is bad, so I'll update that in the Torque PID thread.


PS: I had a HELL of a time getting the ball joint out until I turned the front of the knuckle inward. Then it popped right out - future you will thank me. Maybe I'll do a write-up... eventually.

Also, if you have an MK3 with the "old mattress" / trampoline squeak over large bumps, it's a good time to take care of it when the ball joint is disconnected. I used Sil-glyde on the lower control arm bushings (the squeak comes from the front bushing) and the noise went away! I tried the spray-on silicone lube first (even though it has petroleum distillates, whatever) because it seemed easier but it didn't do anything. Something thicker like a white lithium grease also may have worked.
 
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