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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone
this is my first time on here and i hope you can help me

i have a W reg 2000 focus zetec.
last week the passenger door stopped locking or unlocking with the key fob, if the door is unlocked when i get out and then i try to lock it manually or with the key fob the other 3 doors lock then bounce open, if i then lock the door manually from inside then use the fob the others door will lock as normal, if i then try to open the doors only the 2 back doors and the drivers door will open and i have to open the passenger door from inside manually. If i lock the passenger door from inside manually then all 4 doors lock.

to summerise

the front passenger door does not open or lock with the key fob.

if i have not put enough info on here please let me know.

thanks[scratch]
 

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Sounds like the passenger power lock actuator is faulty. When the fob is pressed the built in security system senses the passenger door not locking, so all doors do not lock to notify you of a fault in the system.

If you can manually lock the passenger door and operate the switch or fob and the rest will lock due to the system sensing all locks in the locked position... Then when you unlock via switch or fob all unlock but the passenger side. Tells me the power actuator for the lock on the passenger front door is the root cause.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
hi.
i suspected it may be something like that, but "success"........i called upon my brother who tinkers with cars in the hope he may have come across the same problem, he diagnoised the same as you did, but he had a look at the door lock/catch and thought it was sticking so we sprayed some WD40 on it and hey presto it works fine now.........so thankyou very much for your help.
 

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we sprayed some WD40 on it and hey presto it works fine now.........so thankyou very much for your help.
Yeah, that might screw up again later. WD40 is a grease solvent. If the part you sprayed it on was greased, then within a day or so you'll have the same problem. I suggest using either silicone or lithium spray grease instead. That will be a longer lasting repair.
 

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excellent thankyou for the tip..............whilst your here........do you know anything about earth wires; my battery light came on suggesting alternater might be on its way out, so i put a brand new alternator on but the light is still on !!
 

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We know a lot about screwey alternators/wiring. First off, double check all the earths at the neg battery terminal. There should be several small black wires there that connect to the terminal. One goes immediately to the body, another goes into the wiring harness, and then there's the main one. From the cylinder head to the firewall is another earth connector, and then there's the earth with the noise suppressor box on it that goes from the cylinder head or engine to a bolt on the body somewhere under the hood (bonnet, etc).

Now on the alternator, there is a bolt on hot that goes to the battery, and a plug-in connector. On US models that plug in connector causes issues with battery charging. The wires pull out of the connector, or are damaged in the harness near heat sources. A replacement pigtail can be purchased from Ford if you find a problem there. The 3 wires on that connector are: Battery sensing wire (+) goes to PCM, Field wiring (+) from battery, and an earth (-).

If you have a multi-meter, then check for the alternator voltage at the battery once the engine is started. If not, use the electronic odometer trick to monitor your voltage. I believe UK cars of your age would work the same as the US models. Just look for a test function that shows [bat 12.5], once the engine started, it should show 13-14.7v. The DMM can be used to double check the electronic odo test reading in case that battery sensing wire is the problem.
 
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