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Discussion Starter #1
I am in the process of changing out the drivers side front axle and have the spindle assy laying on a bench right now. It seems to turn smoothly but does have a little slack in the bearing when I grab the hub and load it up and down and side to side. Is this normal to have a very slight bit of play or is it supposed to be completely stable with absolutely no movement at all?

Thought I had better check this out since I have it already torn down so far. By the way anyone replacing the drivers side axle with auto trans, it is a bitch~~ ! I still haven't got the axle end out of the transmission yet and getting it out of the hub was an awful experience as well. The joint closest to the trans came apart during removal so I have one end out and the other still in the car. I am going to Autozone and rent a puller and the attachement to pull the axle out romorrow. The pass side was a breeze but this side is a PITHA !!! Kars
 

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C2H5OH
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If you have just the hub with the axle stub, no wheel, you should feel no play at all. With the wheel attached you might feel a tiny bit. Longer the lever the more force you can apply, short lever there is very little force, and thereby should be no play.
 

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no play in bearing.
puller will not remove axel.
with pass side out get a strong punch and drive out the driverside axel from through the diff. Or if up in the air on lift get a big prybar. I got mone out from up top with a big pry bar.
 

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w/ the axle still in the hub you should get no play. if the axle is removed from the hub you will get some play.


and the drivers axle. long punch threw the diff to knock it out is the only way i have had success doing it
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I actually have the axle removed from the hub and the spindle on the bench, I just still have the other stub end still stuck in the transmission. I was just wondering if it should have a small amount of slack with it removed.
 

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not really. shoud be 0 play in a unit bearing
 

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if I bought a new bearing that had play in it uninstalled I would return it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well I just wanted to make sure before I put all this back together whether or not to replace the bearing. I am on my way to Autozone to rent a puller and the attachment to remove the axle so will see how that works out as I do not want to pull the pass side axle out again for sure. may not have a choice but I am going to try this first.
Thanks for the information guys ! This site has really been a wealth of information in me doing the repairs I have needed to do on this car. So thanks to all members for their input !! Thanks Kars
 

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w/ the axle still in the hub you should get no play. if the axle is removed from the hub you will get some play.


and the drivers axle. long punch threw the diff to knock it out is the only way i have had success doing it
Agreed, the inner race is two pieces on most all wheel bearings on FWD cars and with out the axle clamping them together they can separate enough to get some play.

If you are concerned insert the axle and torque the nut and then check for play.
 

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a guy tried the puller last weekend on this site and it was a fail. he had to go with the punch method. and make sure the punch is strong he destroyed the 1st piece he used for a punch
 

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if I bought a new bearing that had play in it uninstalled I would return it.
guess you will make alot of enemies with where ever you get your bearings. the bearings require load on them to be stable to have no play.thats why torquing the axles is essential or you will eat bearings.

to the OP since they spin smoothly and you had no issues with them before i would say your bearings are fine.
 

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guess you will make alot of enemies with where ever you get your bearings. the bearings require load on them to be stable to have no play.thats why torquing the axles is essential or you will eat bearings.

to the OP since they spin smoothly and you had no issues with them before i would say your bearings are fine.
mabey because I don't buy my parts at auto zone.
If my parts suppliers don't like me I'll take my 10k/wk else where. I did that before once and they fired the guy I had an arguement after the main office called asking why I stoped spending 6k/wk at their place.
 

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i don't get parts at autozone either(i don't believe they are in my country). NAPA, Carquest or ford is where i get my parts. right now my cars rolling on 4 timken bearings because they had a plant were i used to live.

idk why you try to say i buy shit parts. when its a fact that without load on the bearing it will have play.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I very,very, rarely buy my parts at Auto Zone but after reading a post the other night I saw that they had the slide hammer and puller piece to go on the end of it. However I did go to Oreilly's first to see what they had and they did not have the attachment so I went to Auto Zone and rented them both. The guy said the last time they rented the puller attachment was in 06 !! Maybe noone knows they even have this option to remove it? If the Auto Zone salesperson hadn't been determined to find it I guess I still would not have got the right part I needed. Needless to say I brought it home and in about 5-10 min I had the axle stub removed from the transmission. I did however have to remove the strut assy to have enough room to grab and use the slide hammer. Since I already had the spindle off it was only 3 nuts away from being removed anyway. Now all I have to do is get everything reinstalled again. The part number for the puller accessory to remove the end is Auto Zone's OEM#27508 and is called FWD Axle Puller Adapter. It screws right on the end of the slide hammer and has a nut to lock it in place. Worked great for me !! Thanks Kars
 

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A (Focus) bearing will have side play only when unloaded.
If there is any up/down play the bearing is bad ... no if's/and's/but's about it.
 

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a guy tried the puller last weekend on this site and it was a fail. he had to go with the punch method. and make sure the punch is strong he destroyed the 1st piece he used for a punch
???? That's not me you're referring to is it? I didn't destroy any of my punches- just nothing worked until I got a 48" x 1/4" piece of round stock from Home Depot and used that. My problem was that I couldn't swing the hammer sufficiently while laying under the car, and the axle was very well stuck in there. There will be an axle How-To coming as soon as satisfy my wife after being gone all weekend to FocusFest.

The particular style of puller he's referring to is one I tried, but it didn't work for me. My inner CV was my problem, and it was already KOed to the point where me using a slide hammer to pull on the axle snout caused the inner joint to break apart completely. AutoZone does have a foot puller that slides up behind the axle and screws into a slide hammer. That should work if you are willing to either lower the cross member about 1/2" or remove the lower dogbone motor mount from the engine and push the engine and transaxle back about 1/4". I'll go over all that in the How-To.
 
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