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Newbie to the forum. Just purchased a ‘04 SVT that took a front diagonal hit. Will need front frame “tweaked” back into alignment.
“Frame horns” seem to be the only major casualty, other than bumper cover, headlights, grill, etc. Absolutely no damage to engine, nor running gear.
Anyone have any pointers as to repair, cost etc?

Thanks
 

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w/ my magic bag
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Easier to remove the engine/trans & put the car on a frame bench to get frame horns back in alignment or possibly replace one or both. Easier to either take the car around to a few shops or get a few quality pix to show them.
 

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Don't tell my wagon that, it drives perfectly after damage like that and since '08, I haven't had a thing go wrong other than the hood latch area migrates a bit to make me realign the latch to open correctly, and that can be normal as my other unwrecked car does the same every few years. The latch area is not real solid at holding points in space, you realize that when you see how little plastic holds the latch in place. I rebuilt that area to make it much more solid and now it doesn't move at all. Car does not rattle at all and drives well enough you can let go of steering wheel for as long as you want going straight ahead on normal road crowned surfaces.

The frame horns can collapse deeper to move back toward the rear of the car too, one thing that is not obvious until you remove fenders to look at the strut towers and the ends of upper cowl area. The outside ends of the firewall give way easier than the frame deforms in certain stresses.

Look for the engine/trans to have internally sheared the pass side motor mount and the boxed section at upper trans mount under airbox can move too to throw engine/trans somewhat crooked in the bay.

I reworked all mine using a big tree trunk to yank against while heating frame parts. $600 my cost doing all myself on an estimate of $5500 but the airbags were not renewed, I only got new covers for them. The cars are made with HSS steel and that stuff does not like being rebent back into original locations.

I had the added cost of reconnecting like 60-100 wires due to FWFD severing them being afraid of fires and bags going off (they all had already), they cut the main underhood harnesses in every place they could get to them quickly. I also had to rebuild the engine bay fusebox, it was in small pieces. Fun.

The one here has less damage than mine did.
 

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If you have to replace a frame rail(s) in the front its fairly easy. Drill, grinder, spot welder......
 

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You don't even have to spot weld but it looks cleaner doing it. Bolts of the correct size will work if bolted up solid enough but you need to be able to get to the backsides to install nuts, just say sheetmetal screws are not secure enough, they wallow out under load and warp.

My formerly wrecked car will run 90+ mph and no hands on the steering wheel doing it.
 
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