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I will be changing both front axles this weekend. I am hoping this is the primary cause. I was told that it could be the tie rods as well. How likely is that? I will be inspecting them before I do the axles. As far as the tires go, I will try to contact les Schwab and ask them to replace them as the tires are only 7k old.
I just called Goodyear on the phone and started a case. I had to document everything, and come up with the receipts for proof of purchase, in which I went to the original tire shop and had them reprint them. Then I had to take photos of each wheel/tire and have a honest tire shop measure the tread wear. I made my case in going to 17" tires because I went through 6 tires that all did the same thing.

I was lucky, for having a frame, body and alignment guy that does old fashioned alignments by hand with calipers, and he helped me check all my components to isolate down to the tires. Basic checks were to jack the front end up, and hold the wheel at 9 and 3 o clock, and press in and out, and the same with 12 and 6 o clock on both sides.

After I went to 17" wheels and tires, I bought the SVT suspension kit, and used SVT spindles and brakes front and rear, and refurbished them with new bearings, wheel studs, calipers, rotors, pads, hoses, tie ends, sway bar links and never looked back. I'm on my 2nd set of 17" tires now, some Bridgestone S04's and love them.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Update: Jacked the car up and did the 3 and 9 o clock tie rod test and found a 2mm give and click sound coming from the inner tie rod or steering rack and pinion. Outer tie rod was tight but rubber shields were torn. I decided that this had to be the culprit and went ahead and changed the inner and outer tie rods (master pro I believe). Upon removing outer tie rod I tested both sides of inner tie rods and found no give/ wiggle and mild resistance. I moved forward with changing them.

Drive results include a need for an alignment, as my wheel is slightly off center now and I can feel the steering is not perfect. More importantly, The issue has not gone away and I can hear the warble sound at lower speeds of 20 mph and on.

Could this be due to alignment? Should I move forward with changing both axles in the morning? Pulling the axles resulted in only a ~1-2mm movement forward to back.

Thank you all for your input.
 

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Its probably a simpler solution than you’re looking for.
I asked these questions earlier in this post and you didn’t respond to them in the post. Have you considered these potential problems? You’re replacing suspension parts and considering replacing driveline parts when you may have a wheel or wheel fitment issue.

Do you have stock wheels or aftermarket?
Do you have wheel spacers?
Did you have your wheels checked to see if they are bent? (You can have a bent wheel and it can still be balanced, and lazy tire installers may not notice it to advise)
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Apologies. Stock wheels and tire size. No spacers. I have not checked my wheels to see if they are bent.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Update #2. New axles have been put in. Both sides. Alignment to be done tomorrow possibly. Test drive reveals that the rotational wooping/warbling sound is still present even at lower speeds, unchanged from post tie rod replacement. While things were disassembled I attempted to rotate and inspect the bearings in the hub and was unable to budge or rotate them. 12/6 o clock is still tight and 3/9 o clock has the slop. Rotating the tire clockwise and counter clockwise still reveals identical play as prior to new axle assessment.

Here is a video of a test I did before changing the axles today.


The only things I am left with as possible culprits are rack and pinion (still have the 2mm give when doing 3/9 o clock test with tire), bearings, rim, wheel.
 

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2 mm. if at the tire OD is nothing to worry about. The same 2 mm. at the actual tie rod end is much worse, they should be tight there. The wheels themselves can be out up to .060" (1.5 mm.) and still be OK. It's when you go past that trouble begins.
 

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Sorry the axles didn't work. So the noise is still present but the vibration is gone?
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Its 2mm at the tire on a 3/9 pull. Manually pulling the separated tie rod itself is very tight. The whooping/ warbling rotational speed dependent noise is present and the main issue I am tackling here. Since the new parts it is now present at lower speeds of 15-20mph+ and sounds slightly different/ worse at speeds of 55mph+ now.
 

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Its 2mm at the tire on a 3/9 pull. Manually pulling the separated tie rod itself is very tight. The whooping/ warbling rotational speed dependent noise is present and the main issue I am tackling here. Since the new parts it is now present at lower speeds of 15-20mph+ and sounds slightly different/ worse at speeds of 55mph+ now.
Since you were unable to rotate the wheel bearings that would be my next step. They should turn freely and smoothly.
 

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The 2 mm. at tire edge is a combination of both tie slack, and rack to pinion slack, and even column to steering lock slack all added together and modified by the difference in tire OD and the absolute length of outer tie attachment point from centerline of spindle. All tight parts can be that loose. There is a slight amount of deflection too, you can feel it if you handle the tire hard enough.
 
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