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Discussion Starter #1
Is there good cheap replacements?
Good overall replacement?
I have the poly bushing kit but haven't got ball joints yet and haven't found a good write up on how to remove the stock riveted ball joint.
Would it be easier to get a decent price control arm and put my poly bushings in it?
 

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Im not sure how different the SVT FCAs are from standard Focus FCAs. I recently had to replace a ball joint on my 2002 wagon. I had replaced both FCAs about 18 months ago with units from NAPA. These - like most replacement FCAs - had riveted on ball joints. I considered just buying another complete FCA but decided that all the aftermarket FCAs come with crap ball joints. Moog makes a very good quality greasable bolt on ball joint (K80067). Interestingly Moog also make a complete FCA that has the same riveted on crap ball joint as all the others. So I figured that upgrading the existing FCA to the good Moog bolt on ball joint was the best (but not the easiest) option.

Using an air cut off wheel I simply ground down the rivets on one side and pounded them out of the arm stampings with a sledge hammer/drift. Several of the rivets took quite a bit to come out :( I gave the LCA frame a quick coat of black paint installed the Moog ball joint with the supplied hardware but added hardened washers under the bolt heads and nuts.

Im not certain the Moog ball joint I used will fit the SVT LCAs/knuckles - perhaps you know or others can chime in.

Hope this helps
Paul
 

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I bought moog control arms Friday for my SVT with bolt in ball joints off ebay 60 bucks a piece and I bought a prothane polly kit to put in them the ball joints are the same on regular zx3s as the SVT there is posts on here explaining them I will let you know how they work out by the end of the week when I install them
 

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I bought moog control arms Friday for my SVT with bolt in ball joints off ebay 60 bucks a piece and I bought a prothane polly kit to put in them the ball joints are the same on regular zx3s as the SVT there is posts on here explaining them I will let you know how they work out by the end of the week when I install them
(y)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sob I just bought the moog ball joints for 40 a peice...i couldn't find any bolt on ones on ebay.
Do you have a link?

Another question, wheel bearings, how do I get this out 😂😒
20200705_183105.jpg

My largest axle socket is barely to small [38 mm]
 

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The pn for the Moog bolt-on ball joint for 2000-2004 is K80067. That is the pall joint I purchased to replaced the failed one in the NAPA control arm.
Evidently Moog also makes complete FCAs that have bolt-on ball joints for 2000-2004 pns RK80405/RK80406 (based on the pics of them), however if you look closely at the pics the balljoints do not have a grease fittings like the K80067 - so it is NOT the same ball joint.
Interestingly the Moog complete FCAs for 2005+ use riveted on ball joints (based on the pics of them) just like most other aftermarket FCAs.

I assume what you are showing me in the pic is the wheel bearing outer race still in the knuckle. To remove that you will need a press (or someone that has one) or a 'hub tamer' set. I have this one and have had good luck with it to remove and install the front wheel bearings in the knuckles:

Good luck
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #7
good to know about the ball joints.

And yes the knuckle with the out race bearing stuck in it. I was pressing it out but my socket was slightly smaller and missed that.

Also, what's the best way to get old bushings out on the controll arm? I was able to press one out but the other wouldent slide off
Burn it off?
 

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Ive not done them myself but always thought they were press in/press out.

Good luck
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #9
One socket wasent big enough for the knuckle to get outer race off...so try 2 sockets 😂
20200707_192641.jpg

Finally got that out.

Moog control arms came in, your right, not greasable, but for the price I cant complain.
20200707_190634.jpg

Anybody have tips on how to get the top right bushing off to put polys in?
 

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The poly kit I got says to use a torch and burn that bushing out they say that's the easiest method I'm doing mine tomorrow I'll let you know how it goes
 

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One socket wasent big enough for the knuckle to get outer race off...so try 2 sockets 😂 View attachment 306970
Finally got that out.
Save that old outer race to use to press your new bearings in. Press on the outer race only when pressing into the knuckle. When pressing the hub into the inner race be sure to back up the inner race with a socket, etc.

Good luck
Paul
 
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Discussion Starter #12
As far as I got tonight.
I ran it thru the press and got the mount off while half the bushing broke off in the mount and the other half still on the control arm.
Burning deff helps then a wire wheel to help peel it off.
20200709_211226.jpg


Used a cheap propane tourch.
Only issue with that is it won't ignite back up for a while if used for a few mins straight.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Maybe freezing helps, had a bit of a time pressing the bigger bushing in, the smaller ones pushed in by hand.

20200710_194138.jpg
 

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FYI; interesting discussion on the Moog FCA's; they actually sell several diff 'levels' of these control arms at diff price points with the lowest price being the riveted ball joint, then the bolt-on ball joint, then the bolt-on with the zerk grease fitting on bottom, which is the one I just received and installed. The better ones have a longer warranty too. I always try to check RockAuto site when shopping as they list parts as cheapest/better qual/daily driver/heavy-duty, and most times they are cheaper than other sites and have what you need. That said, I bought it at Pepboys online (to get the discount) and picked it up at my local store the next day. Better have a big breaker bar or some strong air tools for this job :)
 

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FYI; interesting discussion on the Moog FCA's; they actually sell several diff 'levels' of these control arms at diff price points with the lowest price being the riveted ball joint, then the bolt-on ball joint, then the bolt-on with the zerk grease fitting on bottom, which is the one I just received and installed.
What year is your Focus?
Are you saying you purchased complete Moog FCAs with bolt-on and greasable ball joints? What was the pn?
To my knowledge Moog only offers complete FCAs with bolt on ball joints for 2000-2004 only and those ball joints are non-greasable (Moog RK80405/RK80406). For 2005-2007 the Moog FCAs are riveted on and non-greasable (Moog RK80407/RK80408).
To my knowledge Moog only sells greasable ball joints separately - not part of an FCA.

Paul
 

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What year is your Focus?
Are you saying you purchased complete Moog FCAs with bolt-on and greasable ball joints? What was the pn?
To my knowledge Moog only offers complete FCAs with bolt on ball joints for 2000-2004 only and those ball joints are non-greasable (Moog RK80405/RK80406). For 2005-2007 the Moog FCAs are riveted on and non-greasable (Moog RK80407/RK80408).
To my knowledge Moog only sells greasable ball joints separately - not part of an FCA.

Paul
'03 Focus SVTF: I was a bit surprised to find it came with the zerk grease fitting as the last FCA I bought few years back for other side of car (after my son bent it) didn't have the grease fitting, but it was the bolt-on ball joint type from MOOG. The current receipt shows I bought the MOOG RK80405 (right FCA) and the RK80406 is for the left side FCA. I kept the box-end for warranty purposes (limited lifetime on part) so I will confirm that as well to be double-dog sure. I do distinctly remember doing a double-take and checking the item #s when I saw the zerk fitting included, as it wasn't disclosed in the online description.

Anyway, bought from Pepboys online as they give you discounts there; retail $73.99, discount 25% online (discount amount changes every few weeks from 15-30% off...bigger around a holiday...etc), so I paid $55.49 + tax and picked it up at local store next day.

Honestly, if the Motorcraft FCA's weren't so freaking overpriced I'd have just gone back with that as mine lasted forever with no drama whatsoever, but I do like MOOG parts and a lifetime warranty. Getting a good price and the zerk grease fitting is just icing on the cake.
 

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What year is your Focus?
Are you saying you purchased complete Moog FCAs with bolt-on and greasable ball joints? What was the pn?
To my knowledge Moog only offers complete FCAs with bolt on ball joints for 2000-2004 only and those ball joints are non-greasable (Moog RK80405/RK80406). For 2005-2007 the Moog FCAs are riveted on and non-greasable (Moog RK80407/RK80408).
To my knowledge Moog only sells greasable ball joints separately - not part of an FCA.

Paul
I hereby certify that my MOOG FCA RK80405 (for '03 Focus SVT) had a greasable, bolt-on balljoint attached to it in the box with zerk fitting included in a plastic bag, ready to attach...and yeah, I was surprised too. I just figured MOOG decided to give it a limited lifetime warranty, so they upgraded the balljoint with a grease fitting to give it a chance at fulfilling that promise. :)
 

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I hereby certify that my MOOG FCA RK80405 (for '03 Focus SVT) had a greasable, bolt-on balljoint attached to it in the box with zerk fitting included in a plastic bag, ready to attach...and yeah, I was surprised too. I just figured MOOG decided to give it a limited lifetime warranty, so they upgraded the balljoint with a grease fitting to give it a chance at fulfilling that promise. :)
(y)
Thank you for that update - that is good information. So the ball joint has a hole for the zerk to be installed into? If you could post some pics of those FCAs that would be great.

It would be very interesting to compare the ball joint that comes in these FCAs with the Moog K80067 stand alone bolt-on greasable ball joint to see if they are in fact the same.

FYI the Moog RK80405/RK80406 FCAs are correct for all 00-04 Focus (05-07 the FCAs are basically the same but the ball joint stud has a different diameter). Its interesting that the online picture of these parts clearly shows that the ball joint is bolt-on but also does not show a grease fitting or hole for one.

Paul
 

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