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Discussion Starter #1
Cylinder #4 is filled with oil. There was a bout an inch down in the spark plug hole. I changed my spark plugs due to a bog after a shift. My cars rpms drop 500-1000 and it hesitates then takes off again. Should I replace the valve cover gasket and the spark plug then try again or is something else causing my bogging.
 

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Clean 'er up for the first step, and you know the cover gasket is needed now.

Clean the plug boot/connector well, new one if it's still "missing" afterwards.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Boggin is worse since I changed the plugs unfortunately, I tried to use a little extra electric grease on that boot, should I clean the extra boot grease off ?
 

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Boot release silicone grease shouldn't hurt, I don't know if it was or is "missing" by the spark jumping to ground before the plug at times.

Cleaning out the inside of that boot might help, I understand the spring connector & boot can be removed from the coil and at that point you could clean out the inside better. (twist off)

"Bog" could be unrelated, poor running in general is a common result so I figure chasing the known problem is a good start.

I'll move this to General Tech Chat for more looks, repair questions get faster answers there.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I cleaned the boot and plug now, I cleaned the spring too. The car started and ran MUCH better but it still bogs between 1 and 2 shift only now. It's a big noticeable bog too, it's better now but still blatantly there.

Going on to other problems that it may relate to, for a day or so it was running real good, I popped my hood and noticed that the pcv line wasn't hooked up to the intake. So when my cars intake has the pcv tube open it runs fine.

This had me concerned about my intake so I replaced to stock intake and had the same results, bogs between shifts unless the pcv is open.

So my thought of the intake being the cause can't be it. I have cleaned the mass airflow with no improvement.
 

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Odd

On my year the PCV from intake to head is after the MAF, would let extra "unmetered" air in.
 

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Since it was running a while unhooked, it could be "adjusted " a bit for that (except for the "open loop" conditions).

You cleaned the MAF already, maybe try a "reset" by unhooking the battery for a bit to start a fresh learning cycle with it hooked up. Start & let idle 'till it settles down before driving for the quickest results from that.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well Sailor, you've solved another problem. I went back again, re tore down the coil cleaned everything, returned to the stock intake, and re-ran all of the PCV plumbing. Since the cleaning and returning to stock intake my car runs good again. I can not thank you enough.

Sincerely William.
 

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Glad it worked out for you, I'm best at "try the simple stuff first" fixes since it's a BLEEP to get deep into "what might be wrong" to find something missed or ignored is the real issue.

Used to phrase it "Go stupid early" to get more attention.

Wasted a fair amount of time one day working in a shop trying to "prove" & convince the operator that a Watercraft (Waverunner) that wouldn't start was simply out of gas. No other problem there, but how to "prove" it to a customer SURE that something else MUST be wrong.

Won't start. Look at translucent tank & see no fuel slosh. Add fuel. Start & run.

Then spend half a day retesting & trying to convince the operator it's OK. Units were on loan to a Water Show from Yamaha, with maint. the operator's responsibility. With multiple users, who forgot to check it was impossible to figure. All they knew was that it didn't work & it MUST be a Yamaha problem to fix for them. (Telling them I'd have to charge for any additional testing finally stopped the silliness)

Past "Check & Recheck" this doesn't directly apply, thought I'd give you a chuckle as long as I was typing.

Cheers,

Roger
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Speaking of wave runners and laughs, we went out one morning when I lived up in North Carolina with my friend out on a jetski to the lakes, we didn't watch the weather that would of warned us about our 40 degree morning ahead of us on the water. Were out there for about an hour when the jetski becomes harder to ride, turns are getting sloppy and its begins to start running weird and slow, topping out at 30 or so. So we decide its time to head back in and my friend keeps yelling at me for "shifting my weight too much" tipping us over. About 300 yards out the jetski is now underwater except for the nose, we swam it back in, in 40-45* weather to find out we forgot to put the drain plug back in.

Opps.

Jetski took in so much water, but a little Marval Oil and a few dry cranks and she runs like top again.
 

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Foam in the Hull plus the fuel tank helps keep it up. No damage when cleaned out right away.

BTDT - I was just lucky to notice while the small boat was still on the trailer, it would have been full had I tied off & parked the trailer before noticing.

One of those things that happens eventually to everyone (though most don't admit it).

Launch Ramp on the Fourth of July is always good entertainment, where I am boats come out to watch the fireworks that aren't used much the rest of the year - leading to adventures both launching & retrieving.
 

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Id replace the coil boots if possible instead of cleaning. Might have been lucky this time. lot of cars without a replaceable boot end up needing a coil after they get contaminated and oil seeps its way up into the coil body.

I dont recall reading that you replaced the valve cover gasket either. Since that's what the leak is, it won't be long before you'll need to tear it down again.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I understand that I will still need to replace the gasket soon. I also will have a set of coils to replace them at the same time.
 
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