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I've read a lot about what to do to get the most out of the DPS6, but what should one not do to permanently aggravate the shudder/slip issue? Asking for a friend who wants to know more about passing/failing the 250 rpm test, and is probably at the cusp of reaching that 250 point. They brought it in previously, did not hit 250 but the techs did a TCM reset, which reduced the shuddering but only temporarily. The friend wants to ensure if it is brought in, that they in fact do a hardware replacement due to the 250 rpm test failing.

Can someone tell me which of the following causes noticeable damage/degradation to the DPS6 over time:
  • Crawl in stop and go traffic, creep forward at red lights/stop signs
  • Extended low speed (<30mph) drives to heat up the clutch
  • Play with the throttle while stopped
  • Slow accelerations
  • Heavy loads during routine driving
  • Anything else?
What is most effective in "helping" the technicians fail the 250 rpm test?
  • Go on a hot/cold day?
  • Put a heavy load in the trunk during the test (sandbags, etc.)?
  • Can one request to keep driving the car (and keep the clutch warm) until the tech is ready for the test?
Any other thoughts as to what actions cause the shudder/slippage over time?

Why is it that a new replacement clutch works fine out of the garage, but after 10-15k miles or so, shudder starts to become apparent again on the most recent revision? Is it in fact the wear on the components, fluids leaking into the clutch, the TCM getting out of calibration over time, etc? Again, just trying to figure out where the performance degradation comes from. Thanks!
 

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Wife bought a 2013 Focus SE on Dec 14, 2019. On the 15th the TCM went out and the dealer replaced it that same day. In Sept of 2016 , the clutch and shaft seals were replaced. How do I find out if the 250rpm has been check or get them to check the 250 rpm?

I read page 1 & 2 four times and had my wife read them also. I have read pages 1-11, 20-21, and 32-34.

Current mileage is 99364. So I am running out of time to the 100k mark.

I do not get chatter but certainly do not like how it shifts. I drive a 79 f150 with a MT ( np435) and I can shift it faster then what this car will. Doesn't matter if if in D or S manual shift. Man is it slow. What is the sweet spot to manual shift (rpm).
 

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Wife bought a 2013 Focus SE on Dec 14, 2019. On the 15th the TCM went out and the dealer replaced it that same day. In Sept of 2016 , the clutch and shaft seals were replaced. How do I find out if the 250rpm has been check or get them to check the 250 rpm?

I read page 1 & 2 four times and had my wife read them also. I have read pages 1-11, 20-21, and 32-34.

Current mileage is 99364. So I am running out of time to the 100k mark.

I do not get chatter but certainly do not like how it shifts. I drive a 79 f150 with a MT ( np435) and I can shift it faster then what this car will. Doesn't matter if if in D or S manual shift. Man is it slow. What is the sweet spot to manual shift (rpm).



The DCT shifting points are all over the place. It’s something you’ll have to get used to. Just curious, but what made you buy a ‘13 with 99k miles in Dec. 2019? There’s been so much information out there since 2012 & so many other better compact cars out there. I hate to see you’re already having issues but they won’t go away. I’ve had my DCT since 2014 & it still annoys the hell out of me in traffic.




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Apparently....not enough research. Bought at the local Ford dealer. They offer a two year power train warranty and it was in the budget price.
 

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Apparently....not enough research. Bought at the local Ford dealer. They offer a two year power train warranty and it was in the budget price.
Don't feel bad because I fell into the same trap. I should have known better to research what I was buying. I'm a lot happier with the car under Tom's tune but it never should have come to that. Also the fact that they continue to use faulty control modules and act like they have them fixed. Evidence seems to be showing they still have problems even up to the 16 model year.

Now I'm just trying to pay it off and drive it until it dies. Rest assured I won't make the same mistake twice!

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I'm new to the focus so please be patient to my noobness.

Does OR can the clutch bell housing have a vent ( like a hood scoop concept) on it to bring in fresh cooler air in to help cool the clutches? Does anyone offer this in tge aftermarket? If some/all the problem comes from the clutches overheating, wouldn't this help.
 

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Interesting thought for sure. I sort of wonder if one could just cut a piece out of the bellhousing altogether getting heat out. Most transmissions have a cutout with inspection cover on the bellhousing anyway. Not this one.
 

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Interesting thought for sure. I sort of wonder if one could just cut a piece out of the bellhousing altogether getting heat out. Most transmissions have a cutout with inspection cover on the bellhousing anyway. Not this one.
That tells me these engineers are the problem. Why wouldn't you vent the bell housing? Most if not all manual trans have vents.

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It has a vent, however, most vents are just for pressure buildup on transmissions. What the prev post was about was possibly an air scoop for cooling since there is no fluid.
 

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It has a vent, however, most vents are just for pressure buildup on transmissions. What the prev post was about was possibly an air scoop for cooling since there is no fluid.
I mean yes the argument is heat build up but does a manual trans need to be cooled too? Because that's what this transmission is essentially. Really then it becomes hard to argue that heat is the #1 problem with the DCT. If anything it should be less of a problem since there's more than one clutch. However I think heat makes the problems worse.

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Well, with a manual, you are controlling clutching, vs some servos that are trying to figure out out. This is why people say we need to be a little hard on the dct so it engages quickly rather than slipping to engage. When you have a manual, you should not be slipping it much at all. If you do, it will cause excessive heat and destroy that clutch in the same way. This is why it is believed that programming can help as it engages the clutch much firmer with less slip.
 

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I've read a lot about what to do to get the most out of the DPS6, but what should one not do to permanently aggravate the shudder/slip issue? Asking for a friend who wants to know more about passing/failing the 250 rpm test, and is probably at the cusp of reaching that 250 point. They brought it in previously, did not hit 250 but the techs did a TCM reset, which reduced the shuddering but only temporarily. The friend wants to ensure if it is brought in, that they in fact do a hardware replacement due to the 250 rpm test failing.

Can someone tell me which of the following causes noticeable damage/degradation to the DPS6 over time:
  • Crawl in stop and go traffic, creep forward at red lights/stop signs
  • Extended low speed (<30mph) drives to heat up the clutch
  • Play with the throttle while stopped
  • Slow accelerations
  • Heavy loads during routine driving
  • Anything else?
What is most effective in "helping" the technicians fail the 250 rpm test?
  • Go on a hot/cold day?
  • Put a heavy load in the trunk during the test (sandbags, etc.)?
  • Can one request to keep driving the car (and keep the clutch warm) until the tech is ready for the test?
Any other thoughts as to what actions cause the shudder/slippage over time?

Why is it that a new replacement clutch works fine out of the garage, but after 10-15k miles or so, shudder starts to become apparent again on the most recent revision? Is it in fact the wear on the components, fluids leaking into the clutch, the TCM getting out of calibration over time, etc? Again, just trying to figure out where the performance degradation comes from. Thanks!
Lots of good questions there. FYI, I had no trouble failing the 250 rpm test every time I had it done. I failed by a pretty good margin without any special efforts.

One thing that I came across was that the shift points get out of calibration as the TCM continuously tries to optimize shifting based on your driving habits. In other words, it does not do this very well because it does not seem to recognize the resulting shudder so it can go back and make the necessary corrections to keep that at bay. The reason I say this is that after my extended warranty had elapsed, I did a DCT relearn using Forscan. After I did so, the shifting was perfect again, i.e, just like it was after each of my three clutch replacements. So, this tells me Ford is missing something. If it is not possible to improve the continuous learning algorithm to avoid shudder (and it's hard for me to believe that to be the case), at least they could automate the "reset" of the transmission so that could be executed by the driver from time to time without the need to go to the dealer. Or, if need be, just let the customers come in to the dealer for a free relearn that will take about 10 minutes of shop time. If a guy like me can do it, no reason they couldn't but they seem to be fine with a major and expensive repair procedure that has no longevity.
 

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I had no trouble failing the 250 rpm test every time I had it done. I failed by a pretty good margin without any special efforts.
This has haunted me for awhile. Did you have hard shudder all the time? Ours typically only acted up when hot, which isn't part of the procedure. That or I was just getting my chain yanked on the occasions I asked for it to be tested. Guess I should have asked for the results to be printed out or something.

The reason I say this is that after my extended warranty had elapsed, I did a DCT relearn using Forscan. After I did so, the shifting was perfect again, i.e, just like it was after each of my three clutch replacements. So, this tells me Ford is missing something. If it is not possible to improve the continuous learning algorithm to avoid shudder (and it's hard for me to believe that to be the case), at least they could automate the "reset" of the transmission so that could be executed by the driver from time to time without the need to go to the dealer. Or, if need be, just let the customers come in to the dealer for a free relearn that will take about 10 minutes of shop time. If a guy like me can do it, no reason they couldn't but they seem to be fine with a major and expensive repair procedure that has no longevity.
I thought there was more to it, since a reset then requires some seat time. But maybe my crusty brain is again letting me down. I considered doing it after clearing codes from a weak battery mess that threw some nasty trans errors, but chickened out. I should revisit it, but I suspect that with over 112k on original clutches, a new pack and maybe some shift forks for good measure are in its future regardless. And sooner than later. Did you follow How to perform Powershift 6DCT250 (DPS6) adaptive learning - FORScan forum
 

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I bought a 2016 focus at 55k and got the clutches and seal replaced. Car drives like new. Got toms tune at 56k, overall doing great and approaching 63k (in the span of 3 months)

ive noticed that when I’m coming to a stop, sometimes there is this horrible grinding noise from the transmission. It’s like a grind and rumble but not a shudder. Everyone is saying it’s normal, but there’s no way it is. Anybody have any ideas? it does happen everytime.
 

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I bought a 2016 focus at 55k and got the clutches and seal replaced. Car drives like new. Got toms tune at 56k, overall doing great and approaching 63k (in the span of 3 months)

ive noticed that when I’m coming to a stop, sometimes there is this horrible grinding noise from the transmission. It’s like a grind and rumble but not a shudder. Everyone is saying it’s normal, but there’s no way it is. Anybody have any ideas? it does happen everytime.
Are you sure this isn't your brakes? Because the way you describe this makes it sound like a brake issue.

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Are you sure this isn't your brakes? Because the way you describe this makes it sound like a brake issue.

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the only reason I’m convinced it’s not my brakes is because before the clutches and seal were replaced, I was getting this same noise and issue during acceleration from gear 2-3. Also if I slow down at a slower rate it won’t do it but if im more blunt with my braking, it almost sounds like it’s not downshifting properly. Also doesn’tsound like it’s coming from thewheel area.
 

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The grinding noise is common. My ‘13 was doing that also under slow acceleration. I had the clutch packs replaced again, back in November & the noise has stopped, for now. I’ve already noticed it’s starting a clunking noise again under slow acceleration but we all know that these transmissions are junk & there’s no fix. When they replace the clutch packs, they aren’t ‘fixing’ anything, they’re just replacing the worn out parts, so the symptoms will eventually return again.






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The grinding noise is common. My ‘13 was going that also under slow acceleration. I had the clutch packs replaced again, back in November & the noise has stopped, for now. I’ve already noticed it’s starting a clunking noise again under slow acceleration but we all know that these transmissions are junk & there’s no fix. When they replace the clutch packs, they aren’t ‘fixing’ anything, they’re just replacing the worn out parts, so the symptoms will eventually return again.






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well that is true. I have toms tune and the car drives nice. I’m installing paddle shifters and I already forscan to get sport mode. I’m hoping that with the software tuning from Tom and the brand new pack that I can make this last. They have me a one year warranty on the clutches and I’m driving like 18k a year lol. I’m kind of stuck with the car at this point. I love the car but this is annoying. I’m mostly a highway driver so...
 

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well that is true. I have toms tune and the car drives nice. I’m installing paddle shifters and I already forscan to get sport mode. I’m hoping that with the software tuning from Tom and the brand new pack that I can make this last. They have me a one year warranty on the clutches and I’m driving like 18k a year lol. I’m kind of stuck with the car at this point. I love the car but this is annoying. I’m mostly a highway driver so...



Well, I have the Titanium Trim, so I enjoy the 8” screen & interior design, so that’s why I won’t consider an ST1. Any more clutch repairs from this point will be out-of-pocket for me, but I’ve only got 44k miles on the car, so hopefully she’ll be trouble free. I also want to see what happens with the class action settlement in CA., since I live there & am hoping to get compensated at some point, but not holding my breath.





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