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ok if anyone knows whats going on they can chime in any time , just recently i had a battery freeze on me in my focus [ohcrap] , boosted an started fine , now here's the kicker , Ign on an engine running only light on is the check engine light , an it still has the fault codes for the barometric pressure sensor ( i'd like to find this also someday ) turn car off , remove key and the oil pressure light stays on [poke]

any idea's?

no DTC's except the Barometric Pressure Sensor

~Adam
 

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sounds like low voltage to me somewhere. something is running, perhaps a module or this sensor
 

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I need BOOOOST!!!!!!
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reset the computer and it should clear up. i had a similar problem a few months ago. disconnect the battery and then flip on a light in the car or something to make sure all the juice is out of the system. leave it unplugged for about 10 mins. plug it back up and it should be good. you will need to go thru a drive cycle. just drive normally for a few days.
 

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Sounds like a charging system problem.....have the alternator checked, and the battery after it's fully charged. The CEL is probably unrelated....
 

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C2H5OH
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ok if anyone knows whats going on they can chime in any time , just recently i had a battery freeze on me in my focus [ohcrap] , boosted an started fine , now here's the kicker , Ign on an engine running only light on is the check engine light , an it still has the fault codes for the barometric pressure sensor ( i'd like to find this also someday ) turn car off , remove key and the oil pressure light stays on [poke]

any idea's?

no DTC's except the Barometric Pressure Sensor

~Adam

The baro in in the MAFS.

Read this --> http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=26




Now what do you mean the oil light stays on?
Was it on while the car was running?
(I assume it wasn't, but I have to ask)


Anyways, the oil light is just a switch, nothing more. If it grounds the lamp will come on, but it has to be powered to come on and with it being tied into the ignition (off with key off) it should not have power at all. That means you have a power drain somewhere on the engine itself I'd say.

OR

With the battery freezing the plates came loose/broke and are touching creating a feedback situation. I'd lay odds on this option.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
iminhel

yea i thought about the frozen battery idea too , but it checks out fine [werd] apparently its pushing out 160 CC amps more than it is rated for ... if it had a cracked/broken plate it should read a lot less , car starts fine now. oil light is still on with ign/engine off ,

as for the baro ford has replaced the maf on this thing 4 times for the same code. ( voltage to high ) i had a alt. cook it self before hte last maf replacement but not with this battery , an the voltages were alot lower than 12v when that was going on ... now my charging system is fine ( hey it brought a frozen battery back , which after they freeze usually render 's them garbage )

i hate electrical TS .... any thoughts on where i should start?

how many parts on these cars can malfunction to induce a power feed back with ign off?
 
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