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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, so I did a quick search to see if I could find any posts about this, so forgive me if there are any- I didn't know what keywords other than anything along the line of my title to put in. Though I do recall seeing a thread about which is CHEAPER... I think it said both were about the same price in the end.

I'm wondering if someone would be so kind as to educate me on the differences between FI and NA as far as pros and cons go, from performance to maintenance to cost to drivability to legality. And because others might want to read up on it too, why not include the mechanical differences (but that's not my issue).

Basically, I want to have an informed decision as to whether to go FI or NA when the time comes- obviously I have to choose my preference but I want to know what the overall differences are going to be for me when I'm driving the car.

As far as I know, FI is a more bolt-on way for more power... but NA allows you to do more individual tuning and add a little at a time as you go?? Is one better for emissions than another?
 

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br/o/stang
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you wont make big power NA with just boltons and cams. a fully built 12:1 compression, ported head, stage 3 cammed 2.3 would be a lot of fun though
 

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Force-Powered Focus
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this topic is way too broad to be answered in this format, but that isnt true...with boost, you can definitely do a TON of tuning. boosting is overall the best way to go, but people cannot afford to just drop 4k on a kit, plus install. so, they go n/a b/c it is cheaper for them...doing stuff spaced out over time. i have my own boosted cars, which is why the focus is not. boosting is also easier to make emissions-compliant, but either one can be compliant. just put a cat downstream when you put ur manifold on (replaces the header for the boost option). boost, all you need to do is toss a kit on with a tune, and you are all set to go, as long as the rest of the car is in good shape (meaning the transmission, exhaust is big enough, etc).

unless by tuning, you mean more work...then yes, n/a means more tuning...putting in different parts, cams, etc.

my boosted cars pass emissions here in a green state.
 

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Force-Powered Focus
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wouldnt call it a 'fix' so much as a solution.

bottom line is you can go as nuts as you want over years, but you will still be running at around 200hp and lower tq...where boost will put you at 300hp if done right, and almost as much tq...i mean, the tq level would be 50 percent higher than your n/a hp number!
 

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VEKTOR PLATE
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^^ true that. f/i can easily double the output of an engine if the internals can handle it.
me i'm not so worried about emissions here but loudness. last thing i need is a basket full of tickets for loud exhaust on a turbo car. then they start checking for illegal mods.
 

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turbo cars are usually quieter
 

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BodyKits=PantiesDrop
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n/a power is only achieved in higher revs. you lose low end drivability as well with bigger cams. with FI you get tremendous mid range power without sacrificing low end drivability. There are a lot more parts to break tho
Posted via FF Mobile
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
thanks guys for all the answers. keep it coming- I know the topic is broad, but I meant for people to add to it as it goes. Got it favorited.

One big revelation is that FI *is* better at HP increase than NA, as well as the idea I've had going all along that FI is one big 4k hit to the wallet vs piecewise addons.

I have been leaning FI in general (if I get the cash to spend on it)...At what HP will I need to change internals, and which internals are weakest?

(I know some have said that the FSW stage 1/2 won't need other upgrades to the engine but I'm just curious what HP I would need it)
 

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I think around 14 psi you start breaking. But if you have an automatic then that will be your breaking point before your engine.
 

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nemesis, what kind of boosted car do you have?

OP, I think it also depends if you live in an emissions state. if you don't have to worry about emissions, boost away.
 

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OP, everything I've heard about internals on the Duratec is that your rods will go first. Also keep in mind that the $4000 price tag isn't necessarily true all the time. There are a few members on this board who have done their own turbo builds. This will, of course, require access to some fabrication tools in order to wind up cheaper than a kit.

I can't say anything for sure, as I haven't had experience with both. A mild N/A setup is definitely cheaper than a turbo, but there are lots of things you can do to a car to make it more fun, without ever touching the engine.

So say you jack your numbers through the roof with a turbo kit. Now imagine how your stock suspension will handle that much power. Or your transmission. An auto will break, and a stock manual will need a LSD and clutch kit before it's ready for that kind of power.

Not trying to put you off the idea, just saying that if you're just starting to mod the car, there's a logical order to do it in.
 

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Force-Powered Focus
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transmission is good for 700 hp, i think 400 tq
 

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simple way to answer.

do you want a turbo car that is just fast in a straight line, have stock brakes, and basically stock everything else except a clutch.

because for about $6k that includes: focussport stage 1 and 2. exedy stage 2 clutch w/flywheel.

an N/A focus is: CAI, header, full exhaust, svt rear brake kit, coilovers, tuner, cams, retainers... and right there your roughly at: 3700 $ roughly.

thats almost half of the turbo setup. add in an exedy stage 2 clutch, torsen, better front brakes, SS lines, light weight wheels, then your at about: $6700

its not a built block, but i bet you would have a hell of a fun time moding the entire car, over just bolting on a turbo and a new clutch and now you have a turbo car with rear drums and at stock ride height.

i love turbo cars, i really do, i love the pull of the torque they can produce, i love everything about them. but to me. if i were to have a turbo'd car, it would be done from the factory, like a MS3... then boost it even more from there.

for my focus. i plan on tracking and autocrossing it. so i want the money to be spread around the car, it may not be the fastest in a straight line, but hell, ill be able to outbrake a turbo focus when i get done with my setup and go into corners deeper, which is where the real fun is at.
 

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its not in the plans at the moment. i want to get bolt on's and such done prior, which to me a cylinder head is a bolt on. lol checks in the mail. ;-)
 

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Go for the NA route with Tom's 2.4L stroker Duratec kit for the 2.0L (IIRC it uses forged parts), then ported head, Cosworth intake. Wait a while and then add boost.
 
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