[babshire]

Hey all, new member, old reviewer.

Girlfriend's ford focus just today decided not to start. I was at work and she thought it was a battery issue, came home tried to jump it once and no dice. Plugged in scanner and I got these 4 codes:

P060A cmf Mod00
Internal control module monitoring processor

P0128 Pnd Mod00
Coolant thermostat

P060A Pnd Mod00
Internal control module monitoring processor

P2107 Pnd Mod00
Throttle actuator control module processor


The car itself, when I try to start it, just clicks loudly. It acts more like there is an electrical issue. I'm at a loss. The P060 codes I'd think are the result of the P2107, but from what I have researched throttle body issues associated with this code don't really explain the fail to start up. The voltage also currently rests at about 8V (started at about 11V after it failed to start the first time).

Before I just start blindly trying to drive the voltage up via a jump, any ideas? I don't want to force juice through it and find out there's a short and damage anything. I haven't really had any car problems I couldn't immediately fix without just googling the code and replacing what the associated part error is so again I'm at a loss.

Also, the coolant issue code I'm not worried about currently because it's 20 degrees here so that kind of makes sense.

Otherwise suggestions are welcome! I'd rather not start off just replacing the throttle body as this isn't cheap and it doesn't seem like it will solve the issue.

 

[amc49]

How old is battery? Can't run a 12 volt car on only 8 volts, the PCM can't function correctly and will shove errant non-existent codes up your wazoo like that. Assuming the 8v number comes from the battery. Don't just jump, you can toast things if battery not hot enough and alt keeps having to keep the car running. Modern alts will not do that without blowing out. You need a known good fully charged battery before you touch anything else.

Loadtest your battery to see if it is valid. Charge it fully and start again.

Don't know spit about those p060A codes but the wording says to me the processor not working right, well it won't with no correct voltage there.

The cold probably took battery out. If using cheap low quality battery cables they often will not jump, the metal cross sections especially at the clamps is too small, you can try piggy backing two sets, one on top of the other, that will then work. Provided you got enough room to get two clamps on each post. I got cable not cranking the car issues all the time at the parts store, of course no one ever wanted to spend the money on the good ones.

 

[babshire]

The battery is less than a year old. I'm going to take it out of the focus today and get it tested.

The cables I have aren't super cheap, I could stand to upgrade them but they have worked for me in the past just fine. I'd think the issues with my cables is actually that I can't get enough contact from the clamps themselves. Which may very well be a problem. I'll reply later after I get the battery tested, if the battery tests fine I'll get cables and piggy back. I have two cars and one pair anyway so it's time to pony up anyway.

 

[babshire]

Sorry for triple post, using phone and the wireless freaked out.

 

[mstromberg]

It wouldn't hurt to check your ground connections.

Found THIS

The alternator clip issue might be worth looking into also?

 

[amc49]

'I can't get enough contact from the clamps themselves.'

I second that, I learned at the parts store to always dig into the lead really good and twist the connection a bit, all an effort to get down into good lead below corrosion.

 

[babshire]

Disconnected and reconnected all of the ground connections (after a bit of cleaning) and then took battery to the auto store and had them charge it... they said It's good to go. Plopped it back in and the car started... albeit a little rough. I left it sitting for a little while watching battery voltage. stayed at a solid 14V, took it out and it stayed at a solid 14V throughout the ride. Gonna try it a few times tomorrow and see if it's still good. I plan to take it to the auto store and have them test the alternator just to rule that out.

So far though I'm hoping you are both correct in the cables issue. It's just a bit odd to me that they have worked for me multiple times in the past but failed to this time. I'll be replacing them regardless.

Thanks guys.

 

[sailor]

If voltage drops too low, cables can't always do it unless left on from a running vehicle to charge the battery first.

Only in perfect conditions with good connections from a large gauge set of cables can you start off jumpers alone.

 

[amc49]

You will get some crazy codes with insufficient power, the PCM does not know what to do with that..................