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TURBO ZX3
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that's actually a cool hot side route but it might draw in hot air being close to the motor. mine goes into the fender well but its a super tight fit over that trans mount
 

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Discussion Starter #783
that's actually a cool hot side route but it might draw in hot air being close to the motor. mine goes into the fender well but its a super tight fit over that trans mount
I'm hoping the heat soak will be minimal but I didn't have a ton of options at this point. It might be something I look at down the road but I really want this car running in the next month.
 

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Discussion Starter #786
This wouldn't save me any space, the only thing that will clean it up is if it is a direct 90 welded right off the turbo. This will come later but only if the current setup is a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #787
Accomplished a few things this weekend but a mini cooper took up most of my time.

cleaned up the turbo piping and installed it.



Finished wrapping exhaust and screamer pipe.



Since I couldn't locate a mustang TPS plug harness, I ended up converting to weatherpack plugs on both sides. This worked out since it needed to be lengthened. I will keep the harness side out of the plug until we start the car so I don't have to take it apart later if it is not in the correct order.

 

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Discussion Starter #788
Had a bit of panic this weekend when I was going to bleed the brakes. Two of the Brembo bleed nipples were seized badly! Luckily after heating them a few times and tapping on them with a flat bunch I managed to break them free. Just ordered a new set of stainless ones which I though they came with from the beginning!

Started connecting electrical and it seems to be going pretty good so far, can't believe how many unused plugs there are. Another thing I will most likely have to due is flip the turbo oil feed and temp sensor because after looking at it I think the tolerance will be too tight for the sensor plug.

Still waiting on a K&N setup for by oil breather. Going on two weeks now :(

Still a chance this may be running by the end of the month! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #790
After I had an issue with bleed nipples I ordered a new set in stainless and they arrived this week. When putting them in I had an issue getting the very last one to thread and upon closer examination I noticed the last bleed nipple I pulled took some aluminum with it!

After having a bit of a panic attack and researching where I could find another caliper I remembered what we do on most race cars that use aluminum calipers.

So I cleaned out the threads and ordered a complete set of PFC inserts and bleed nipples.



These are not cheap for what they are ($115) but it was much cheaper then sourcing another caliper right now and they hold up to tons of brake bleeding abuse at the track. Also they all seemed to torque up fine so crisis averted. :)

Also finished the AN lines for the valve cover and oil separator.

 

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Discussion Starter #791
Extremely glad I waited to do the last of the electrical in the engine bay and vacuum hose plumbing until after the brakes were bled!

A word of advice when making your own brake lines is to make sure they are perfectly straight and tightened well (more then what I remembered)

I hooked up my power bleeder this weekend and I had a nice mess by the time I was done. Luckily all my connections on the inside of the car were tight and it was mainly issues in the rear (I must have installed the lines and not tightened them up all the way) Only one brake line had to be pulled and re-cut/flared and I ended up having to do it twice. This was one of the lines going to a three way before it dives into the car so you can imagine how much fun this was to work on.

Here is a picture for reference before the engine was in. (Top line was leaking)


4 hours later I can say that everything is bled and now I can move on to finishing the engine bay connections so I can finally test the electrical and try turning over and priming the engine!
 

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Discussion Starter #792
Hooked up the battery last night to make sure we are getting power to certain areas and ran into an issue with getting power to the actual key. I can get power to the light switch which turns the dash lights on but I am not getting much else although the correct voltage is definitely circulating.

I took some pictures and was going to post up my diagram but after looking over it some more in the morning I think I have it figured out.

I need to try one more thing tonight and if I am still having issues I will be back here to hopefully find some answers.

If I can get the engine oil primed this weekend I will order the start up tune so we can all finally hear this thing run!
 

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Yes! Been waiting a long time to hear this kitten roar!
 

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Discussion Starter #796
Update on electrical:

I have made some progress I don't want to turn over the car yet until some of these are issues are sorted. Here is a quick breakdown of how my car is wired/setup and then I will list the current issues I am facing to see if we can come to some solutions.

Car Setup:
Mach HID Headlights
-Turn signal bulb has been converted to a white running light that will always be on once the key is turned
-Small light has been converted to a running light that will come on when the switch is turned to running lights
Headlight Switch is a European Switch
-This version includes all the workings for the rear fogs, headlight levelers, parking lights.
-currently not wired up for parking or rear fogs
Rear Tail light and Fog harness
-This is the true euro harness and has not been spliced yet (I wanted to see what worked first hoping for the best)
Front Bumper and Fender Turn Signals
-Both wired up to previous turn signal leads

What Currently happens at all headlight switch stages:

Turn on Key
-Both front running lights come on.
-Third brake light comes on along with bottom left fog/reverse light
Turn light switch to running lights
-Only right side of car lights come on (passenger side mini bulb indicator and brake light bulb)
Pull for Front fog lights
-Both fogs come on
Turn on Headlights
-Both headlights fire up

Obvious problems so far:

-Driver side running lights do not come on
-With ignition on Third Brake light and drivers side reverse fog comes on (need to still check bulb on passenger side rear Fog)
-Brake light don't seem to be working with the compression of the pedal
-Horn does not work (we can hear a clicking solenoid noise when pressed but nothing else)
-turn signals do not work currently (I believe they should with the ignition on, I need to check the hazard switch yet)
-Whatever Gauge Illumination wire I used is not working as I am not getting any power to my mechanical oil pressure gauge I will find another soon with the multi-meter
-I really need to find a pin readout for the euro headlight switch (I have the ford work shop manuals so I will check there first and then I will contact my friends in Europe. I am not too concerned about the parking setup but I want the rear fogs to work correctly.)
-I installed a dimming rear mirror which has three wires (ground, Ignition live, and the mystery wire) I need to find where the mystery wire goes but I believe I am just missing the power wire.


I know this is a lot right now and I am going to continue working at it but I thought I would post it up for people to share there thoughts if they have answers. I also did a quick search on the topic yesterday and I have a few pages to read yet. I think I am going to post some pictures up as well of a few things that are going on so it is easier for everyone to visualize.
 

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-I installed a dimming rear mirror which has three wires (ground, Ignition live, and the mystery wire) I need to find where the mystery wire goes but I believe I am just missing the power wire.QUOTE]

Does your dimming mirror have a switch or button on it to turn on/off? If so that third wire is probably for outer mirrors with dimming. Usually (key word) all the strategy is in the interior rear view because that's where the light sensor is, when that gets dim then the outside gets dim. If you want to test just connect your hot and ground leads to appropriate voltage and see if it powers up. Then use a flash light or something similar (no LED, has to be halogen) shine the light onto the sensor in the mirror and see if it gets dark. It should, if it works the way I'm thinking
 

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Discussion Starter #799
Its going in for final paint correction this week and I hope to have it running within the month. There was a major screw up with a billet MAF I purchased and an entire pipe had to be redone.

Other than that there are a few wiring gremlins yet but I don't think it is anything major.

If I find some time this week I will post an update.
 

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Tyler..if you haven't gotten to the head light connector I can lead you there. I've been all through the manual locating terminals and tracing down the fuse panel/relays/pcm to use the RS pcm I've got. I've already gotten in it and synced my keys to it. That fan issue we were discussing doesn't exist anymore. I'm using the RS engine bay harness, 14K733 along with pcm harness, 12A522. Also crossed over the instrument cluster pin outs to see if I'll get the correct signals to it, and re-pin if needed. The biggest issue left is to reorganize the bulkhead connector cause the RS uses one and the SVT uses two. But the headlamp switch was studied to determine if I wanted to connect up the headlamp motors. I found within IDS where to do adjustments on the headlamp motors to preset them.
 
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