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I don't recognize that valve cover at all. What is that engine out of? Any other information on this engine like if its a turbo or NA build? Whats the purpose of it?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
LOL , your the first to catch that

This one is built for Boost , street

There is lots more info to come , Good catch

Tom
 

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You seem to have left a lot out of your build of the block. What about the head/main studs, crankshaft, cams, timing key, and head gasket? Are you using your SPA turbo manifold?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
You seem to have left a lot out of your build of the block. What about the head/main studs, crankshaft, cams, timing key, and head gasket? Are you using your SPA turbo manifold?
Head is pictured , stock GDI 2.0 that I ported and flow benched , ARP head and main studs , stock crank no key way cut , stock 2.0 GDI cams , stock Ford head gasket

Ask away I will answer

Tom
 

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Have you read in the Mazdaspeed forums where people wear having issues with the 2000 headstuds? I do not know how if the metallurgy of the focus stock bolts sare the same as the 2.3disi but I do know the dimensions are the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I havent but 90% of the time they dont TQ them 5-6 times and if you dont they wont hold tight because there not properly TQ

I have never seen a ARP stud break and I have them in many Duratec engines with no issues

What issues are they having ? I doubt its ARP stud failure related

Tom
 

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The ARP 2000s (important distinction) were not providing the clamping load that even the stock bolts were. People were lifting heads at lower power levels than normal bolts. The explanation behind this was everywhere from the material, the small nut, or that ARP provided the wrong torque spec.

The bolts would never snap but the head would lift and blow the head gasket.

I don't want to sound like I am bash you for using them, just curious as to why you did given their reputation. From what I've read, given your goals and the better flowing head I do not think they will be a problem though.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
The ARP 2000s (important distinction) were not providing the clamping load that even the stock bolts were. People were lifting heads at lower power levels than normal bolts. The explanation behind this was everywhere from the material, the small nut, or that ARP provided the wrong torque spec.

The bolts would never snap but the head would lift and blow the head gasket.

I don't want to sound like I am bash you for using them, just curious as to why you did given their reputation. From what I've read, given your goals and the better flowing head I do not think they will be a problem though.
I didnt take it like you were , I have done over 150 Duratec Boost Engines over the years and not one time have I lifted a head with the 2000 ,300-450 whp , Like I said you MUST TQ the ARP studs 5-6 times at least , we do it till no nut moves , some times thats more then 6 times , Most only TQ the studs 2 maybe 3 times and that isnt enough at all , I did a post about this years back warnign people after a guy here blew 2-3 HG and his issues went away after TQ his like I suggested

If the stud is in good shape , if the nut and washer is in good shape , if the stud isnt stretched then it wasnt a ARP failure

Then you have to take into account , did they use molly or oil ? head or block warped ? clean ? etc etc

So far I am very happy with the STD ARP head and main studs

Tom
 

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Looking through some of the speed3 forums, it seems that the std ARPs were failing at 480-500+ hp. All of them claimed to have followed the instructions provided.

That's very interesting that you continually torque down the head. I assuming you do this as the engine heat cycles and breaks in?
 

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Call me a beginner but when you change the rod length do you automatically change the compression? Also on a normal rebuild to spec with upgraded bearings and lightweight pistons, do you need to tune for mods that dont vary from OEM specifications just weight/quality or should it operate normally on stock
 

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Discussion Starter #37
When you do longer rods you change the compression distance on the piston , meaning the distance from the center of the wrist pin to the top of the piston

You need to fully Tune a engine like this

Tom
 

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When you do longer rods you change the compression distance on the piston , meaning the distance from the center of the wrist pin to the top of the piston

You need to fully Tune a engine like this

Tom
And the pistons have a lower deck height correct? Otherwise would hit the head with the longer stroke?

Also longer stroke = larger capacity to spool the turbo quicker?

Not telling, just checking my understanding :)
 

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Discussion Starter #40
But not if you switch to lightweight pistons or forged internals that meet OEM specs right?
Mine are lightweight pistons and Forged internals , but correct OEM would be different

Tom
 
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