Focus Fanatics Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone explain or provide a picture of the Focus jack points and jack stand points? The manual has an extremely vague picture with no real information. Someone on these forums stated that there should be arrows pointing to the jack points but I can see no such arrows. I've been trying to find a picture of a Focus jacked up but cannot. Any help?
Thanks

Edit:
I found this picture:
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k48/bchandlerucf/ST/photo3.jpg
Do you guys agree that these are good spots for the jack and jack stand?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
You can see the arrow in the top right of the picture you posted. That is the best spot to jack the car, not how it is shown in the picture.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
If you look on the bottom sill plate on the exterior of the car, you will see two small arrows molded into the plastic; ones about 12" or so behind the back of the front fender well, the one for the rear is about 9" in front of the rear fender well. Jack goes there and you will see where the steel is lowered for the top of the jack to hit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
As a followup, I'll tell you guys the results of my oil change. There are indeed lift points at the arrows as can be seen in the picture in my first post. It's a metal joint essentially and worked fine. Initially I thought I was supposed to jack the car on the plastic at the tip of the arrow, but I found that just behind the plastic is a notched metal bar that's supposed to be used.
I used the a jack stand point near the one shown in the picture. There's a bolt on that black bar and I put the jack stand around that bolt, which worked fine.
I was rotating my tires at the same time and used the rear jack points as jack stand points and that also worked fine. I ended up with the entire car off the ground and it was quite stable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
184 Posts
for the floor jack in the picture http://s85.photobucket.com/user/bchandlerucf/media/ST/photo3.jpg.html,

is follow pictures where he put the floor jack?


the triangle shaped metal thing. I think he put it around the bigger nut? I have a 2014 it's a little different I think.

but for the floor jack point he used, like in my pictures there are holes between the bigger nut and smaller nuts, and the triangle metal bar is curved so is that safe to put floor jack there? maybe for his year it's level? but other than that I can't find other points to jack up the car in the front.
 

Attachments

·
3rd Time's the Charm
Joined
·
1,943 Posts
The arrows on the side of the car are for the space saver jack ONLY as that picks up the car by the pinch weld using the retainer built into the top of the factory space saver jack. A standard floorjack will flatten the pinchwelds, and that is considered body damage on the resale market.


This is not a Focus, but a Subaru Forrester, same predicament with the OEM jack utilizing the pinch weld.


No no no no no never do this.


For a flat saddle hydraulic floorjack, almost any piece of hardware under the car is a suitable receiver. I personally jack the car up using the far outside most bolts on that crossbrace a few inches from the arrows on the skirts. It's hasn't bent over the last 4 years, and is easily replaceable if it does get out of shape. For jack stands, I use the rear outer lower control arm (beefy aluminum donut, jackstands fit under perfectly) and in the back, I jack it up under the spring perch and put stands under control arm since it sits flat when the car's weight is on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
In my manual it shows the same lifting point for the cars jack and for a floorjack, those marked with arrows. But it says that you must use a minimum 10 cm diameter rubber puck between the jack and lifting point. It was the same on my former Fiesta and I used that place for 7 years two times a year on two fiestas without any damage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
184 Posts
wow if you flat out the pinch weld that's considered body damage in used car market? didn't know that. I used floor jack and jack stand on those pinch welds about twice, so far I see some little damage.

10cm diameter rubber puck where do you get those?

piece of wood between floor jack and jack point what's the dimension that you guys use? and those pictures I posted that's the floor jack points right?
 

·
Old Phart
Joined
·
44,595 Posts
I've actually used the std. jack locations on the pinch welds as well, they're pretty solid when the car isn't rusted out (extra layers in that area).

That IS with padding, not the edges of a cup style floor jack end.

2x4 section is OK, but you have to keep it oriented with the grain across the car or it can split (don't line pinch with the grain).

Up North the rubber pucks are the best & easy to get, used Hockey pucks are my normal source.
 

·
Old Phart
Joined
·
44,595 Posts
Jack stands I've always used alone for stability, top is wide enough to be OK.

Pad is to NOT have just one or two narrow edges from a cup style holding all the weight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
184 Posts
Jack stands I've always used alone for stability, top is wide enough to be OK.

Pad is to NOT have just one or two narrow edges from a cup style holding all the weight.
right..... jack stand it got nothing to hold the puck now that I think about it

is this placement ok for jack stand, inside the upside down "U" metal thing http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/attachments/mk3-focus/73473d1412912661t-mk3-2012-focus-oil-change-101-20141008_232oil-change-805.jpg

for wood 2x4 but how thick would you recommend?
 

·
3rd Time's the Charm
Joined
·
1,943 Posts
Look toward the front a bit from where you have that stand in the pic, just behind the wheel, there's a silver mount point that holds the front control arm. This donut chaped mount will fit right into a jackstand perfectly. That's what I use.

It's black in this pic from an ST, but the arrow is pointing at it. I put the fingers of the jackstand in the middle and it cups perfectly. Very solid.

 

·
Old Phart
Joined
·
44,595 Posts
I'd slide it in a little further if used there, bridge the bolt that goes up into the frame member so the pressure goes more directly up to the frame instead of all on that connector piece.

Used 2x4 at times just because a square cut piece fit in the one jack's cup quite well when laid flat. So that was the thinnest section of the board (not really 2").
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
191 Posts
I've actually used the std. jack locations on the pinch welds as well, they're pretty solid when the car isn't rusted out (extra layers in that area).

That IS with padding, not the edges of a cup style floor jack end.

2x4 section is OK, but you have to keep it oriented with the grain across the car or it can split (don't line pinch with the grain).

Up North the rubber pucks are the best & easy to get, used Hockey pucks are my normal source.
Sorry to bring back an old thread, but for the hockey pucks, do you cut a groove into it first and do you simply just place it on the "cup" of the jack stand? For example, do you glue it to the jack stand or anything?

Thank you in advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
184 Posts
I cut a groove then hold it to the jack point of the car, then jack it up.

Over time it will cut into the groove and you will need to replace the puck, so pay attention and replace it well before it got cut in half
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top