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Discussion Starter #1
So I went to the racing school again and it went well there was even 2 svt's there. One had a turbo but unfortunately he had some turbo issues, I think he was only running 6 lbs of boost and I believe he had a coolant leak somewhere. Also there was a supercharged svt there for lapping days. Both nice guys. Was happy to meet some fellow Focusers.

Anyway for any of you who have done circuit or lapping days how did you fair on a NA Focus? I have no real engine mods, just CAI and more exhaust flow.
I was only able to hit around 90 on the straight away if I got out of the last corner efficiently. Man I got smoked on the straight away by just about everyone (most of the cars were BMW's a couple Lotus's and Mustangs) That was expected though. Mostly there to learn to keep momentum and stay consistent with my lines. However in the future I need more power.

It just seems like the car wont go any faster than 90 and 5th gear was pretty much useless. I'd hit 90ish but a shift to 5th just felt like it was bring my speed down. Does this sound about right?
 

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br/o/stang
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90 would be too early to shift into 5th, depending on rev limit youre looking at 30 more mph left in that gear
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's good to know. I pretty much stayed in 4th the whole time after I realized the car wouldn't go any faster. I thought it was governed at 110 from what I have read. But it just seems like it's governed around 90. Would flashing it give me more power that would be noticeable? Plans ate to get new cams, valves and springs hopefully after that a dyne tune.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I didnt actually see the RPMs but I know when I shifted into 5th it was probably 6k from the sounds of it. Then they dropped to probably 3.5 to 4k again by the sound of it and the fact that the car just didn't want to gain momenten after that.
 

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Shot me 3 deer!!!
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hard to say. i had a stock zetec at a HPDE at 110. wasn't a problem, so i'd say you've got an issue! unless ur at some high elevation or climbing up hill the whole way!
 

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If you guys have time to look and see how fast you are going entering a corner you are doing it all wrong.
Only way I ever know how fast I am running is from telemetry.
The Focus is not a straightaway car. You should be all over the back of or pulling away from most cars in the turns if you are up to speed and the car is handling properly.
You need to compare yourself to your times not other guys on the track. Maybe compare yourself to other guys in equal cars but don't look at a V6 or V8 car and think you are slow, because you get pulled on the straights
 

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.Flat Out.
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i don't think he is concerned about getting beat by the bigger motors since he said that was expected. i think it's more along the lines of learning to drive better. (ie. gearing)
IMO if you don't have a data logger on your car then the next best thing is to glance while on the track, especially if it's a test n' tune day or practice day like he had.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah I think I'm going to do some tests on the car, the straight away is a pretty long straightaway, in fact it also goes through 2 turns (you are able to straighten them out pretty well. Here is a link to the course if your curious. http://www.pacificraceways.com/RoadRacing/RoadCourseInfo.aspx In between turn 9 and turn 2 its pretty long.
I will do some tests on my car at school when I get a chance.

Bluovaldave, As far as cornering you are totally right, it handles really well and when I do it right I can gain lots of distance from the Porsche, Mustangs and Sti's. If I could beat them to the first turn after the long straight I seemed to be ok, If I didn't they would easily pass me. I wish I had someone there to time me. we were all there for classes so in no means was it really competitive.
 

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.Flat Out.
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You could always try an app called 'Harry's Lap Timer Pro' it works for the iphone and believe Andriods.
it uses the GPS feature of your phone. it actually works pretty good. an alternate to the 500+ data loggers out there.
i've used it a few times and it's amazing the info it can provide.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You could always try an app called 'Harry's Lap Timer Pro' it works for the iphone and believe Andriods.
it uses the GPS feature of your phone. it actually works pretty good. an alternate to the 500+ data loggers out there.
i've used it a few times and it's amazing the info it can provide.
Cool, I will check that out. I tried using the Nike + gps on my last run but it was a parade run and mock start. Wish I would have remembered it before that.
Thanks for all the info, good stuff.
 

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From the track map and satellite photo of the track you would need to get as much speed as possible exiting turn 8. A couple of mph there would give a higher top speed towards turn 2 if you could carry the speed through the jogs in the track. Similarly you will need to get out of turn 3B cleanly to make speed towards 5A.

From the videos you were using all of the track at the exit of 8 which is good. If you notice a number of the other cars were not. They were leaving a lot on the table by not finishing off the turn properly.

I tell my students to get on the power as soon and as hard as they can to the point where you won’t need to get out of it.
Most people apply too much throttle too early and too hard, then back out and back on again. It is a real momentum killer, especially in a low horsepower car.
I ask my students if they have taken calculus (see, book learn’n ain’t all bad after all). Think about the area under a curve. A nice throttle application would be a smooth arc upwards that maximizes both the time the throttle is applied and the amount of throttle. Someone who gets on the throttle a tick later or applies it too soon and has to back off would have a jagged line with spikes and valleys. Less area under the curve.

I run a SVT Focus with Cobalt pads, they are phenomenal. I do much of my “accelerating” while under braking because the car stops so well.
Most folks starting out do not use their brakes as efficiently as they could. Many back off the throttle, coast down a ways then apply a little brake, then a little more before turn in. Exactly as you would while driving to work approaching a signal light. On track the rules are different.
Keep on the throttle to the braking zone and then get on the brakes hard until turn in. If the car has ABS, find out where the threshold is and get as close to that point as you can before the turn. On a non ABS car it will take a bit more practice.

As for more power, it is nice but won’t necessarily make you faster. I have a friend that I run with at Mosport. He has a SVT with Hoosiers and a Torsen. I have a PWSC SVT with NT01’s and a Torsen. So I have more power but his tires are a little stickier.
When we go out to play I can run him down and pull away at will with my power advantage all day long.
However, he has larger testicles than I.
In turns 1 through 4 he carries way more speed than I am comfortable with. He brakes later and less and gets back on the power a little earlier. He also keeps the car up in the rev band while I tend to short shift.
If we were in identical cars, he would simply pull away from me and it would appear to anyone watching that he had tons more power because of the distance he gains exiting the turns. In a 20-25 minute session he would probably be 3 or 4 turns ahead by the end of the session.
 

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Bluovaldave, As far as cornering you are totally right, it handles really well and when I do it right I can gain lots of distance from the Porsche, Mustangs and Sti's. If I could beat them to the first turn after the long straight I seemed to be ok, If I didn't they would easily pass me. I wish I had someone there to time me. we were all there for classes so in no means was it really competitive.
It is really hard to make it work in the corners if the guys won't "breath" the throttle a little bit to let you go on the straights.
If you are better in the corners and are on a guys ass coming to the straights the proper way to run is the guy let's you go and then the next lap you will stretch out on them.
Most guys ego won't let them do this though and unless you have good corner workers that will help you with passing flags, ect or instructors that pay attention it is hard to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
What is a PWSC? I tried googling it but got no definitive answer. My best guess is a supercharger of some sort?

Yeah a lot of those guys wouldn't hold back and I don't blame them, I actually like the turns more than the straights I like the technical aspects of them. I've actually heard that Pacific raceways is probably one of the most technical courses around hear, with all the elevation changes and turns. I really hope to get to go out there and play more and learn as much as possible. I have started the process in getting my novice license now I just need to get a car prepped for racing or rent one. The original goal was to have the car built for Group 2 rally and just rally but I need to do something in between rally so I figure circuit racing would be a good choice since the operate year round. It may be a pain in the ass but I figure I could use the car as a dual purpose car. I figure id have to change out the suspension and wheels and I could get by. The cage is my biggest hurtle at the moment. I'm not sure if its the wisest plan. I have been looking at the Pro3's they seem fun and very cost effective to race on a budget.
 

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Correct, it's a PowerWorksSuperCharger

i would just pick up a beater hatch for rally, then build it for rally only. less of a headache. plus Rally beats up the car pretty bad, i'm not sure if i'd want to rally a car then take it on the track where speeds can reach the triple digits..
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Correct, it's a PowerWorksSuperCharger

i would just pick up a beater hatch for rally, then build it for rally only. less of a headache. plus Rally beats up the car pretty bad, i'm not sure if i'd want to rally a car then take it on the track where speeds can reach the triple digits..
You have a good point there. I have been looking at the costs of building a rally car and comparing that to a used older rally car. I have seen used ones (group 2) from 4000. on up. cost of a cage is starting around 3500. then I would need seats, belts, electronics, suspension. I'm sure there are more but that's just a few. So yeah It would make way more sense for me to buy a used one probably save half the dollars and headache.
 

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A good way to add 20-30HP is a SVT header , 2.5 exh , drop in filter , TB and a tune would net you a good 20+ HP to the wheels and you will be surprised what it will do on the track , a lot of this you can find used here on FF

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #20
A good way to add 20-30HP is a SVT header , 2.5 exh , drop in filter , TB and a tune would net you a good 20+ HP to the wheels and you will be surprised what it will do on the track , a lot of this you can find used here on FF

Tom
been keeping an eye out for the SVT header right now I have a OBX header in it (came with the car, not sure if its any good or not) http://www.obxracingsports.com/products.php?pk=905

I have a 2.5 exhaust in it (came with it) I'm going to get a new muffler because this one sounds horrible at high RPMs not natural sounding at all.
I do plan on getting new TB and tune but also want to get new camshafts and valves, but not sure what order to do it in. I imagine the tune will be last, at least it makes sense. I also want new wheels but that comes in the "looks" category.
 
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