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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
hi there helping fellows.
again here for some help.

my focus 2002, 2.0 split port, sohc started stalling and looses power at the point that engine stops even when driving. symptoms start after 10-15min the car first starts in the morning. i can still drive it but you know.... and i have no other car and need the car for the everyday family duties.

a friend of mine has a focus same as mine that parts couldnt sell so i get things for cheap. that focus is a sohc too and was involved in an acident so nothing wrong with the engine.
things done so far.

1. replaced the catalytic converter
2. replaced spark plugs (new) wires and ignition coil pack (his)
3. replaced air and fuel filter (new)
4. dpfe changed (his)
5.tried to check the vacuum lines from the dpfe to the egr valve and they look fine (or i dont know how to check em)

is there a way i can test the solenoid and the egr valve ?
im wishing that wont be needed to change the fuel pump and i really need some help from you guys to see whats up.

p.s.what kind of obd2 scanner for the ford can i buy without spending much ???

pls pls help
thanks guys
 

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Harbor Freight scanners are actually adequate & inexpensive.

I purchased their second cheapest when I got one, many functions including viewing readings & even graphing them - not JUST a code checker.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Be prepared for possible valve seat failure. Quite common to be evident on startup.
hi thx for the answer Mikey. whats the simptoms of a valve seat. noticed some black coloration coming from the exhaust. its watery but not fuel
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Harbor Freight scanners are actually adequate & inexpensive.

I purchased their second cheapest when I got one, many functions including viewing readings & even graphing them - not JUST a code checker.
thx sailor. any advice on my problem...
 

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hi thx for the answer Mikey. whats the simptoms of a valve seat. noticed some black coloration coming from the exhaust. its watery but not fuel
Symtomes usually include rough idle/ dieing on startup, will go away very abruptly and run fine, sometimes random roughness that is very severe, but completly goes away in the same fashion. These are warnings, the seat is dislodging, but managing to find its way back for a at least a little while. Exhaust sounds normal for a internal combustion gasoline engine.
 

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Check the vacuum hose between the PCV and the intake manifold. There is a 90 degree bend/boot that plugs into the manifold that breaks down over time and cause the symptoms you describe.

Also check your plug wires with the engine running, in complete darkness. You mention installing a 'used' set. The insulation can break down over time and create a lightning storm under the hood. It can be bad enough where you can hear it too.

A compression test is also very important on an SPI.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Check the vacuum hose between the PCV and the intake manifold. There is a 90 degree bend/boot that plugs into the manifold that breaks down over time and cause the symptoms you describe.

Also check your plug wires with the engine running, in complete darkness. You mention installing a 'used' set. The insulation can break down over time and create a lightning storm under the hood. It can be bad enough where you can hear it too.

A compression test is also very important on an SPI.
thx for the answer friend. i actually tried to check all the vacuum lines around egr/vale/solenoid but didnt notice anything. whats the best way to test these vacuum lines (removing and blowing in ??) or just physically check.
 

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thx for the answer friend. i actually tried to check all the vacuum lines around egr/vale/solenoid but didnt notice anything. whats the best way to test these vacuum lines (removing and blowing in ??) or just physically check.
One of the tricks is running the car and using propane (unlit torch nozzle) around the lines listening for change in engine rpm. Some people would consider this "dangerous", but if your smart about it, it is perfectly safe. Other methods are spraying lines with carb clean or brake clean, I do not recommend that method for at least 2 reasons, 1 if your lines weren't bad before, the will be after that assault, and any other plasic (sensors) will not fair well either 2 soaking your engine bay in highly flammable liquid could cause quite a nasty fire.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
One of the tricks is running the car and using propane (unlit torch nozzle) around the lines listening for change in engine rpm. Some people would consider this "dangerous", but if your smart about it, it is perfectly safe. Other methods are spraying lines with carb clean or brake clean, I do not recommend that method for at least 2 reasons, 1 if your lines weren't bad before, the will be after that assault, and any other plasic (sensors) will not fair well either 2 soaking your engine bay in highly flammable liquid could cause quite a nasty fire.
hey Mikey i got this vacuum and fuel tester today from PA. you think it would be ok te test with this guy. what hose do you think would be best to test it? solenoid?egr valve? or else. or this guy is just useless and wont show me anything.
what about the fuel pressure? where do you think i can hook this guy up for a fuel pump test.

didnt find the compression tester though, they only had those digital ones which were for $59 and i know the normal price for standard ones is $24, so ill have to wait a couple days
 

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hey Mikey i got this vacuum and fuel tester today from PA. you think it would be ok te test with this guy. what hose do you think would be best to test it? solenoid?egr valve? or else. or this guy is just useless and wont show me anything.
what about the fuel pressure? where do you think i can hook this guy up for a fuel pump test.

didnt find the compression tester though, they only had those digital ones which were for $59 and i know the normal price for standard ones is $24, so ill have to wait a couple days
Really all your going to see with a vacuum gage is a number (inhg) which tells you nothing without a baseline for what it should be. And even with a baseline number, it can still vary from that. The place to test vacuum is after the throttle body on the intake manifold. I can't advise a specific port location, as the focus application is not my specialty.
As far as checking fuel pressure, the place to check is on the rail, unfortunately I don't believe the focus came with a Schrader valve for this purpose. Best way to check fuel pressure is with a scan tool. I know a lot of places that will scan codes for free, not sure if they will tell you details like this. Like previously stated, usually most places will loan compression testers too.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Really all your going to see with a vacuum gage is a number (inhg) which tells you nothing without a baseline for what it should be. And even with a baseline number, it can still vary from that. The place to test vacuum is after the throttle body on the intake manifold. I can't advise a specific port location, as the focus application is not my specialty.
As far as checking fuel pressure, the place to check is on the rail, unfortunately I don't believe the focus came with a Schrader valve for this purpose. Best way to check fuel pressure is with a scan tool. I know a lot of places that will scan codes for free, not sure if they will tell you details like this. Like previously stated, usually most places will loan compression testers too.
thx again man. just ordered this AutoLink® AL419 OBDII & CAN.
skanner.jpg not sure when is the sanner going to arrive tho..
and the reason why im buying the compress test is that i hate loaning tools.(maybe cus ive been working 7yrs as an account manager in a bank [:p]) makes more sense to me buying it as you never know, might need it for later.
as for testing the vacuum makes sense what you say. its just going to be a number there, so i might just try it but ill check the hole lines just to make sure. its been so cold today and couldnt check it after work.
thx again bud
 
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