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Discussion Starter #1
I had a overheating problem with my focus. The problem showed when i had installed LPG system in my car. Car suddenly overheats and drops the temperature again in few minutes. Changed the thermostat problem is still there put another thermostat there is still problem. My mechanic had put an constantly open (jammed) thermostat and the car runs fine but there is no heating in the car it is very low you can barley feel the heat. I had changed the antifreeze in the car too had the system chemical flushed and the water is clear no debris in it at all. The coolant is nice and clear like it should be and there is no smoke from the exhaust pipe and the hoses are not blown everything seems fine when the jammed thermostat is in there when i put the normal thermostat the problem begins. The new thermostat opens at 82'C tested it works fine its new. Changed the cylinder head temperature sensor too problem still persists. Car has around 250000 km. Can anyone help
 

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You should check to see if you have bad head gaskets, especially since it over heats and then a few minutes later is fine. Thats the number 1 give away. So check that first and go from there
 

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Discussion Starter #3
changed head gasket rebuilt the whole head valves valve seat had the head tested no cracks no nothing. when the car is assembled the problem is still there. Overheats right away after two tree minutes of running.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
changed 4 thermostats all the same water pump is new and fine works ok checked the radiator the mechanic even disassembled it and checked it it was like new no debris in it it was fine. the heater works very good the water is circulating trough there but it wont open the thermostat. the thermostat i had put in it opens at 82*C tested that in hot water works fine
 

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Ill do some research and let you know what i find.
I have 1 last question, is it the dash temperature gage showing over heating? There's a chance that the gage is bad on the dash cluster or you have a wrong coolant temperature sensor that reads a different level of heat.
Id plug in a scan tool and have the PCM temperature reading up and then once it hits "overheating" on the dash read that temperature and then check the temperature of the coolant itself. If its different between the PCM reading and the coolant temperature it might just be a sensor.
But i will see if i can find you anything and keep you posted
 

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Also, every morning or whenever before you start your car while its cold check the coolant level. This could be as simple as a leak somewhere
 

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From what ive found Ford released a TSB due to the MK1 with that engine size having the same overheating issues as you have, if you Google it or go to the ford website you could probably find it there, they have a kit to fix the issue and from what i have read from a few people it fixed their issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The gauge on the dashboard is reading overheating it goes to the red. The coolant in the reservoir goes boiling it it bubbles and cracking that you can hear in the cockpit. In that moment the car loses heating and the hose that comes out from the thermostat is cold and the other one is very hot. Heater hoses are hot too. Cant say that is a leak because in the morning there is no marks under the car and the coolant level is same as the night i left the car. Where the boiling happens coolant level rises over maximum and boils in this moment if you turn off the engine after a minute it stabilizes and the level drops down to a normal level like it was before boiling right below max. Hoses still one at the thermostat cold the other one very hot.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
By the way cant find anything on google about this problem except other blokes that had similar problems
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Forgot to say the bubbles or the boiling comes from the bleeding small hose that comes from the cylinder head and goes to the reservoir.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
even tried to vacuum the cooling system air is coming constantly from the small hose from the top of the cylinder head that is for bleeding probably, left the vacuum for 30 minutes and air is coming out when turn off the vacuum pump coolant level still the same as it was before not much difference.
 

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I vote for checking the radiator. I had an intermittent overheating problem with a 1989 Volvo and a new radiator solved the problem after I had checked the thermostat and fan clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Vacuuming the system for one hour now my pump has 80 kpa or 0.8 bar negative pressure bubbles coming out from the small hose from the top of the cylinder head that goes to the reservoir if i block that hose air is coming out from the other one that comes from the radiator but they are constantly coming out and the coolant level is not dropping which is suspicious.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I had removed the thermostat completely and car works fine for now no boils cracks but it is a bit weird first hose that is starting to get hot is the upper one that on the right side of the radiator that hasn't got the thermostat on it and the one that had the thermostat on it is colder like the coolant circulates the other way
 

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Discussion Starter #18
After no more things to do decided to change the water pump because there was no more things to do so i went and bought a new water pump and a 74 degrees thermostat and put them in the old pump was slipping the propeller inside the pump causing bad circulation in the system so this solved the problem. All of the mechanics that said they had checked the water pump did not so be careful of those scamers out there.
 
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