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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So yea.. new guy to the site... so HELLO.

Bought a 2013 SE in November of 2013.
Only modification so far is I had is straight piped with dual tips so she is quite loud. Yay for Tennessee not having inspections =P

Sitting at 18k miles and already having issues.
First off... Both front door windows are stuck, passenger one wont even budge, driver's side will move if you beat on the door panel. I've talked to random people I meet at work who have the same car and alot of them report the same issue with the windows either barely moving or getting stuck.
Most of the time if I push the button for the window, it just clicks. Any fixes for this or recalls?

Second issue is I got the black package on mine so I have the 17 inch black wheels and it is eating up the rear tires. 18k miles and my back tires are bald on the inner half cause the camber is so bad. I have found some adjusting bolts that gives 1degree of adjustment and also found adjustable upper arms that will give much more adjustment if needed but are considerably more expensive than the bolts. Anyone used either of these? Is the 1 degree enough to stop the inner tire wear?

Those are the two biggest issues I have so far.
Only other thing I can think of is that I don't care for how dead the engine feels between 3 and 4k rpm, just no mid-range at all, but damn she kicks in above 4k. I've read that's just how these motors are but still irks me a bit.

Thanks for your time and apologies for such a long FNG post.
 

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Um. I'd take it to the dealer for both of those issues. I have a '13 with 20k miles and no issues so far (except for a slight dash rattle).
 

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keep your tires rotated every 5000 miles, get an alignment every 17,500 miles. the rear has alot of adjustments, our cars actually have sub frame adjustments if necessary, it takes solid work but a good tech should be able to get a good alignment on it. the windows, id take to the dealer, thats a warranty issue that a few people have had happen. it shoulnt be a problem unless you played with the electrical system. and to get rid of that dead spot between 3000-4000, get a good tune on the car. it'll smooth it out
 

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Um. I'd take it to the dealer for both of those issues. I have a '13 with 20k miles and no issues so far (except for a slight dash rattle).
I absolutely agree with this. There have been users here who have reported both issues, and the fix is best taken care of by Ford. So far, most of the window problems have resulted in replacement of one or more components within the door usually due to electrical failure.

The tire wear problem has been thought to be due to the tolerance range for the camber and other alignment criteria from the factory. It won't save your tires, but an alignment at the dealer is the best fix. I caution aligning yourself, unless you have the proper equipment, because you could end up making the problem worse and at the end of the day, you'll want the alignment report to show everything in spec. You might even have a case for Ford to replace your tires if you can prove that the premature wear was due to poor factory alignment.
 

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So yea.. new guy to the site... so HELLO.

Bought a 2013 SE in November of 2013.
Only modification so far is I had is straight piped with dual tips so she is quite loud. Yay for Tennessee not having inspections =P

Sitting at 18k miles and already having issues.
First off... Both front door windows are stuck, passenger one wont even budge, driver's side will move if you beat on the door panel. I've talked to random people I meet at work who have the same car and alot of them report the same issue with the windows either barely moving or getting stuck.
Most of the time if I push the button for the window, it just clicks. Any fixes for this or recalls?

Second issue is I got the black package on mine so I have the 17 inch black wheels and it is eating up the rear tires. 18k miles and my back tires are bald on the inner half cause the camber is so bad. I have found some adjusting bolts that gives 1degree of adjustment and also found adjustable upper arms that will give much more adjustment if needed but are considerably more expensive than the bolts. Anyone used either of these? Is the 1 degree enough to stop the inner tire wear?

Those are the two biggest issues I have so far.
Only other thing I can think of is that I don't care for how dead the engine feels between 3 and 4k rpm, just no mid-range at all, but damn she kicks in above 4k. I've read that's just how these motors are but still irks me a bit.

Thanks for your time and apologies for such a long FNG post.
Welcome to the forum! I recommend heading to your dealer for this. Once you have an appointment set up, please send me a private message with your VIN, updated mileage, best daytime phone number, full name, and dealer name/location. I can look into some additional assistance.

Meagan
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Alrighty. I just don't care for dealing with dealership service departments.
Was more curious if anyone here has had the problem with the windows.

I rotated the tires at 9k which yea is overdue but hey shouldn't be this badly worn at only 18k miles. They are the Continental ContiPro 255/50/17 that came with the car from factory. I don't feel like it's me having hit something jarring the camber off cause both sides are wearing the same on the inside of the tires and the front tires are still in good shape. Plus, I haven't rednecked the car at all.
I'll see what the dealer has to say if it can be put into a good camber range or if I should go for adjustable alternatives.

Thanks for the responses 8)
 

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Camber isn't usually the issue with rear tire wear, it's the amount of toe in.

Read up in the Brakes, Suspension & Chassis area for examples/info..

(They're SUPPOSED to have negative camber in back, only a problem when it's excessive/different from side to side (usually from damages))
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Good point, just seemed odd to me that they would both wear as evenly as they have meaning that both sides are toed wrong. I assumed it would be camber since that is pretty obvious just looking at it.
 

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It's not as common with the MkIII's, but early Focus models were famous for this wear due to the specs for toe being even wider than at present. AND, by the opinion of most members who've studied it over the years, the current specs are still a bit too wide on the toe in - with best results at the minimum allowed.

Factory can't go to zero in back as many racers want, handling can get touchy (particularly with any error towards toe-out). 0.10* is a nice number, under 0.20 is prob. max. acceptable. Many shop specs quote 10-15 to 30-35, way to wide a range as shown by early wear/feathering of the rear tires with the inside wearing too early.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Makes sense. I'll talk to em and see what they can do and if they wont go near zero, I'll find someone who will.

Thanks for the information 8)
 

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Alrighty. I just don't care for dealing with dealership service departments.
Was more curious if anyone here has had the problem with the windows.

I rotated the tires at 9k which yea is overdue but hey shouldn't be this badly worn at only 18k miles. They are the Continental ContiPro 255/50/17 that came with the car from factory. I don't feel like it's me having hit something jarring the camber off cause both sides are wearing the same on the inside of the tires and the front tires are still in good shape. Plus, I haven't rednecked the car at all.
I'll see what the dealer has to say if it can be put into a good camber range or if I should go for adjustable alternatives.

Thanks for the responses 8)
My offer still stands, if you do end up going to your dealer. :)

Meagan
 
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