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Discussion Starter #1
I'll try to be brief, but thorough:

At one time, I had an AEM CAI on my car (without the air bypass valve, as you'll see). One rainy night a friend drove my car through standing water and said that the car bogged down and eventually quit on him right there. He started the car again after a couple of tries, said that it smoked a lot, but got it to the side of the road. I showed up, and seeing that the filter was completely soaked, pushed the car to a lot and let it sit there over night to drip/air dry.

The next day I went back to the lot and depressurized the fuel system, pulled the fuel pump fuse, took out the plugs and turned the car over. No water came out. Put everything back, and the car started okay, idled smooth, and ran fine on the way home. Consulted some more knowledgable car guys, and they advised that it would probably be okay.

Fast forward 3 months: The car died on me while idling (especially when the A/C is on) and when it's humid outside. Also lost major power at speed.

This is a list of what was replaced that summer...

Fuel filter
Put stock airbox/filter back in
Stock exhaust put back on
Throttle position sensor
Idle air control valve
New computer put in at dealership
New spark plugs

Better, but not great. Still idles a little rough, and flutters/loses power at speed, especially with A/C on. Replaced so far this year...

PCV Valve
Tried another MAF from identical Zetec (same problem)
New plugs/wires

So, my question is... would anyone think that the problem might be related the the CAI incident? If so, what do I need to check?

Also, I know about the DPFE sensor problem with Foci, but if it fixes the flutter, it doesn't affect the idle, right? (Because EGR is off at idle?)

Maybe check my cat for blockage? HELP! Thanks!
 

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Its possible that you have a blown or damaged ring in one or more of your cylinders as a result of the hydrolock (assuing the engine ingested enough water.) I'd do a compression test, or you could run the engine and pull the spark plug wires one at a time and listen/watch for the engine to drop RPMs, and if pulling the plug on one cylinder has little or no effect on the engine that'd be the culprit.
 

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SkaAddict said:
...or you could run the engine and pull the spark plug wires one at a time and listen/watch for the engine to drop RPMs, and if pulling the plug on one cylinder has little or no effect on the engine that'd be the culprit.
Hope he doesn't have a pacemaker.
 

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^
The Focus' plug wires are insulated...you can pull the wire off the plug without getting shocked. This isn't the 1920s when spark plugs were connected to the distributor/magneto with a bare copper strap...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
A compression check on all cylinders was done when I put the car in the dealership, and supposedly came back fine. Although I will try it myself this weekend along with the plug test. Thanks so much.

But... assuming that both of those checks don't turn up anything, what can you sugggest next?

Thanks again.
 

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What does the car do, specifically? Do you push down on the gas pedal and it just bogs (like its not accelerating at all or still at idle), or does it just have less power than what you're used to?

Given what you've replaced, I'd suspect a possible fault with the coil, or possibly the EGR valve. Are you getting any CELs, or does the computer seem to think everything is OK?

Given that it ran fine for three months after the incident, I would think that the hydrolock had nothing to do with what you're experiencing now, unless its a compression issue. Getting just the right amount of water in the cylinder could weaken a ring to the point where it would be OK for a short time period, but would give out under normal use. If the dealer says the compression test checks out, I'd be inclined to believe them because they'd be the first one to suggest tearing your engine apart to replace a ring and charge you 1/4 of the value of your car to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It's fluttering a little when I'm up to normal driving speed (30-50 mph in the city) and want to accelerate a little to go a little faster. This is not pressing in to WOT, either. The car flutters a little for 1-2 seconds, then it accelerates as normal. It is especially noticable when the A/C is on and/or if I'm cruising at low RPMs and when it's humid outside.

No CELs, and I have the ignition coil on my list of "things to try" along with the EGR valve and DPFE sensor.

My car's in the shop now getting almost $3K worth of hail damage repaired! I'm going to try the compression checks and a new coil as soon as I get it back.

Thanks much, bro.
 

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Did you ever clean your MAF after sucking that water through it? It could be as simple as that...
 

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Ever check the cam position sensor?

I SERIOUSLY doubt you hydrolocked the motor...

To "hydrolock" the engine you have to ingest enough water to STOP THE COMPRESSION STROKE OF THE ENGINE... which means you fill the cylinder with water... and thats not just a cup or two.....with a CAI thats alomost 2.5-3 GALLONS of water due to the volume of the area you have to fill.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Scott: Yes. I cleaned it with fast-drying contact cleaner, and have another time since that.

Orange: I agree. From what my buddy told me about the incident, the motor never stopped turning over. It just bogged down until it stopped. From what I figure, the engine just wasn't getting any air through the intake (causing the smoke from a really rich burn). I haven't check the cam position or sensor. But wouldn't that cause a problem at any RPM/situation/weather condition? I don't know, just asking...

Thanks!
 

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Any news on the compression test?? That will really tell if there is internal damage to the pistons, cyl. bore.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The car is in the shop getting some hail damage repaired right now and I should have it back Tuesday, at the latest. I'm going to do the checks ASAP and I'll reply back afterwards.

Thanks for all the help!
 

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that's weird because sometimes mine does the bog down before accelerating thing especially with A/C on. It's not bad unless I don't give it enough gas... it's different than when I first got the car because it didn't do that, now it does. It also shakes at idle a little bit. I have been wondering if tuning it with SCT and getting rid of EGR and all that will fix it or not. Hmm...
 

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SkaAddict said:
^
The Focus' plug wires are insulated...you can pull the wire off the plug without getting shocked. This isn't the 1920s when spark plugs were connected to the distributor/magneto with a bare copper strap...
It's still very possible and extremely likely if your hand is near the cap when you pull it off - which it should be unless you want to destroy your wires. I tried this same little trick a few weeks ago working on my fiance's Breeze and shocked the hell out of myself.
 

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Try the depf or what ever that sensor is and I have the same problem w/ the a/c on it sucks so much power and the idle is terrible w/ the a/c on and it feels like there is half the power there than w/o it on. But I also have the lower motor/ trans mount in too but the shakeing is so bad w/ the a/c on its like it does not speed up the idle for the a/c though when I turn it on the idle goes up then the compressor kicks in and it idles just little bit low but low enough to make it shake real bad but when the a/c is off it idles fine it shakes but nothing like hearing every loose part on my car it shakes so bad the back hatch rattles. maybe we have the same problem so keep us updated but I would replace your depf thingmajig.
 

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^
If the DPFE was going out, you'd get a CEL relating to the EGR system. It is possible, however, that your CEL simply isn't lighting up...you might want to take it in and get it scanned for error codes. If you let some errors go long enough the computer will eventually switch the light off.
 

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I had a similar problem

turned out to be a vaccum leak, one of my hoses bursted on the back of the intake mani
 

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SkaAddict said:
^
If the DPFE was going out, you'd get a CEL relating to the EGR system. .


they can slowly go out and not cause a check engine light they tipically are replace every 30,000mi I still would not rule it out how would you explain the surging and heastaion issues that plagued alot of focus onwers the first few years of the car being released. They did not throw a check engine light but were still malfunctioning
 
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