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Discussion Starter #1
hey guys, its been a while since ive been here lol, well i got a couple things im fixing to do to the focus but the biggest i think is going to be a dry ice box, read my idea and tell me what you think.

first im going to relocate the battery to the trunk to get it completley out of my way.
then im going to mach up a custom cold air intake out of 3" aluminum tubing im ordering from trubendz

im going to cut the section out of my aem CAI were the MAF plugs in at, the intake tube is going to run over were the battery used to be, making alot more simple design compared to the aem.

all the tubing is going to be welded together for a nice clean look and no leaks.

now for the dry ice box, im going to biuld an aluminum box with an aluminum door on top thats going to have the intake tube running THROUGH it then welded to the box on both sides were the tubes come out so the box will be completely sealed around the tube.

then when you power your dry ice in the box it will freeze a great bit of the intake tube thus making the air intake temps more dense and alot cooler for more hp. can also use just a bag of regular ice but the effort wont be as great.

i will also be wrapping the header and putting an evo carbon fiber hood on so the under hood temps will greatly reduse, along with a radiator flush followed with some royal purple ice and a 180 degree thermostat.

tell me what you guys really think about this setup? ive only seen one dry ice box before and the guy said the difference was night and day.
 

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Turbo!!!!
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Please post pics of your progress. Maybe WD40 will make it a sticky.I'm very interested in knowing how well the car responds to this.
 

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Across the Pond
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Damn. Maybe i could use this on my turbo set-up later. Interested to see how this goes.
 
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I have a picture of something like this on my home PC... I'll try to post it tonight.
 

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EvenDeathCan'tStopMe
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Make sure you use gloves when handling that dry ice.

(sorry, that's all I could contribute... hehe)
 

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there's actually a product from CryO2 I believe that places a bulb in your intake tract. you purge a CO2 can through the bulb, chilling the bulb, and thereby cooling your intake charge.
 

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Turbo!!!!
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crazymechanic said:
there's actually a product from CryO2 I believe that places a bulb in your intake tract. you purge a CO2 can through the bulb, chilling the bulb, and thereby cooling your intake charge.

Got a link?
 

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FF Cleaning Squad
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I like the idea but there are just a few small problems.


One the size of the intake tube will cause a CEL b/c the MAF will read to much air you will have to recalibrate you MAF for that to work.

Second, the single flaw with ALL CAI, how will you protect yourself from water or will this be a race track only car?

If you can figure out those two issues I dont see why it will not work.

Oh and get the tubing ceramic or powder coated to reduce the air temps too.
 
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1. Put this box in between the MAF and the TB.

2. You will always have a certain amount of water vapor in the air, so... not sure how you think that you will pull more or less with this setup.
 

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FF Cleaning Squad
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1. he said he will be building a new intake out of 3" tubing, there for needing a recalibrated MAF to allow the larger airflow with out a CEL.

2. I was not talking vapor I was talking water, you see I am not one of those people who will use a CAI with out a bypass valve, and on a set up where you will be freezing a portion of the pipe for cooler air I am sure you will not want to have an open port under the engine bay. There for if this is a daily driver an unexpected rain storm can ruin your year when you need to buy a new motor due to hydrolock.

Oh and please no one start with the "just don't drive though lakes" BS that always starts on BPV threads b/c you cant guarantee that the day you pull out of your drive way there will not be a flood later. Weather is unpredictable and you never know what will come at you, besides its just extra security and I will pay 50.00 for extra comfort.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ok heres a couple things to help clear up.

1. i said i was going to cut the section of my aem intake out were the maf screws into, so i wont have to recalibrate my maf, also you dont have to worry about hydro lock unless you fully submerge the filter in water, or get it soaking wet, so that part im not worried about.

im also going to put a drain plug in the bottom of the box so i can drain that water when the ice melts, also the box is going to be in the spot were the battery was at, theres no way you can put is between the maf and the tb because the box is about the size of the battery.

as for the Cry02, its made by DEI who specialize in exhaust wrapping and products to help reduse temps, a whole Cry02 kit is about 400 dollars, this isnt going to cost me near that, but those things do work ive seen a couple.
 

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FF Cleaning Squad
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^^
Sounds like a good plan, I am no expert but woln't the bottle neck in the intake system just defeat the purpose of the 3" pipe?

Oh wait, is the AEM pipe 3" I am looking at a ruler and trying to imagine my AEM on my last car. What diameter is your AEM pipe?
 

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I've thought of something like this before...but in reality i believe the extra weight of this set up and the ice will negate any real power gains...but it'd be a cool set up to see and be tested.
 

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Across the Pond
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The bottom half of the AEM intake for the SVT is 3 inch, the top half is 2.75 inches.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
exactly daredevil, but as car as added weight goes, trust me there wont be enough added weight to make a difference, it may add 3-5 pounds at most, you got to remember the tubing is aluminum and the box is going to be made of thin aluminum also,

saying the added wieght from this setup will hender performance is like saying pulling my cd player out will make a difference in my 1\4 times, it wont.

im going to start ordering my piping soon and i will keep yall posted, also another reason its going to help, it will get that piping away from the engine and trans, like the aem has it, because of the design of the aem were it pretty much lays on top of the trans and is cornered to the block it suffers from heat soak so its always going to be hot nomatter how cold it is out side.

now you run that pipping straight across were the battery used to be and then go straight down and position the filter in the fender well will see better result than the aem do to less heat soak and a more simple design for the air to flow through.

keep you opinions and thoughts and any knowledge you have of this project comming cuz i can always learn more to help make this better.
 

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Just a question....you're not going to be allowing the dry ice to come in direct contact with intake air right??? If I understood you correctly it's just going to be cooling the intake tubing? The reason I ask is probably something you've already thought of but I'm just making sure....dry ice is frozen CO2 which is bad for combustion...so if the CO2 vapors get in your intake you'd see a decrease. If I understood correctly though you weren't going to let this happen, just making sure [:D] BTW.....wanna make me one of those and bring it to me since you live within a couple hours of me? [;)] [:D]
 

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also if you're using dry ice you do not need to make a drain plug for the water
when dry ice melts, it doesn't produce any water, since it is not frozen water to begin with
 

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Just some thoughts... Cooling the outside of the intake tube will help a bit, but willl quickly build up ice from the humidity in the air flowing through it. Also, the amount of air exposed to the 'cold' will be minimal if you just use a tube.

A better, more efficient method would be to build a heat exchanger which would resemble a radiator with many tubes flowing air with CO2 surrounding them. You would need to make it BIG to negate the restriction though.

Most people using cold boxes are Turbocharged and don't need to worry about the ice buildup as the intake air is being cooled from 300+deg to maybe 150 or so. And, the restriction presented by the exchanger is more than offset by the temp reduction.

You could easily increase the surface area of the cooler with blades of aluminum inserted in the intake stream and extending above the outer tube surface. These would help cool the air and (if leading and trailing edges were sharpened) present limited restriction to the airflow.

At best, you are looking at a couple percent HP improvement with very cold intake air. Of course, if you do it well, the gains will be real and repeatable and.....you will create an advantage for yourself on a really hot day. Good luck.
 
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