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Discussion Starter #1
[?|]I over torqued the bolt on one side of my battery terminal and it snapped off. Ford doest sell just the T bolt part and you have to buy the entire negative side of the the terminal to get that part. I did some research and some BMWs use the same T bolt style so I took a chance and ordered one off ebay. It works perfectly! If this happens to you in the mean time while you wait for a replacement you can still drive your car by carefully using a strong hose clamp to hold the terminal in place. Hope i could help save some money for some people its about $9.99 vs about $100 at the dealer. One side will use a different sized ratchet to get it off but it operates exactly the same as the OEM and even has a better locking nut.

the part i used was called "BMW Battery Terminal Cable "T" Bolt with Lock Nut 61128373946T"
and i got it off ebay
BMW Battery Terminal Cable "T" Bolt with Lock Nut 61128373946T | eBay


broken with ghetto repair lol


Replacement part


Good as new

 

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C2H5OH
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A+ post.
 

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Taciturn. Your turn.
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Good find for those that don't have a JY in a reasonable distance. I remembered to grab a spare one day when I was there.

If the terminal doesn't want to bite hard on the post then putting a piece of tin between the T-clamp and terminal should make it tighter.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Common easy to find complete universal battery terminal, cheaper ($4) than that and it dumps that absolutely horrible clamp type too, they slip WAY to easy to make hard to find electrical issues.

A little more work for way more dependability in the future.

Super Start SK7001 - Battery Terminal | O'Reilly Auto Parts
This is an even better fix but not everyone has wire cutters that can snip off the stock battery terminal
 

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Could have afforded those as well and still been under $10.

Not having the most basic of tools seriously flaws any ideas of do-it-yourself repair. You DO get that right? Harbor Freight you can buy those cutters for like $4. Don't work on car if you are not going to 'tool up' for it, you will be breaking far more stuff than you fix, and I'm not nearly talking about having a dealer tool set, only basic commonly owned handtools. Cutters are one of those.

http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/pliers/7-inch-professional-diagonal-pliers-94383.html
 

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Could have afforded those as well and still been under $10.

Not having the most basic of tools seriously flaws any ideas of do-it-yourself repair. You DO get that right? Harbor Freight you can buy those cutters for like $4. Don't work on car if you are not going to 'tool up' for it, you will be breaking far more stuff than you fix, and I'm not nearly talking about having a dealer tool set, only basic commonly owned handtools. Cutters are one of those.

7" Professional Diagonal Pliers
While those diagonal cutters are nice, I have found if you are trying to cut through more than 3-4 wires at a time they struggle.

Harbor Freight does have a solution for that though Harbor Freight 10" cable cutters. They will cut though a whole harness without any effort, and would probably work on heavy gauge copper wire without any issues (HF says up to 7/8").
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Could have afforded those as well and still been under $10.

Not having the most basic of tools seriously flaws any ideas of do-it-yourself repair. You DO get that right? Harbor Freight you can buy those cutters for like $4. Don't work on car if you are not going to 'tool up' for it, you will be breaking far more stuff than you fix, and I'm not nearly talking about having a dealer tool set, only basic commonly owned handtools. Cutters are one of those.

7" Professional Diagonal Pliers
Willing to tool up but would rather not mess around with electronics as much as i can as well!
Edit: would like to keep an OEM look too because I might sell the car soonish
 

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New car buyer will care far more about car starting and running 100% of the time than whether it is OEM or not. At least he'd better.
 

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C2H5OH
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There is now a cheaper and possibly quicker solution, if they have it on hand.





Cost me $5.
 

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Part will suck just like the OEM. I've tried simply putting one in a vise to 'close it up' to make it grasp tighter, the part is weak enough to simply open back up when you tighten it, what a new one will do too. If the brass notches have swedged out to be looser it won't grip anyway.

Ill-designed part there, the idea is flawed. Only works when new and not even then with some.

If you clean at least the smaller terminal as little as one time the grip range is so slight with that design the terminal then quits holding post and can be twisted by hand at fully tight on the bolt. Why the sides of that picced part open up, from overtightening.

They should pay YOU $5 to buy them in my view.

Like most other parts on a Focus, they spend more time using engineers to design the part to be changed more than once rather than last.
 

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Dude, it's a easy job. The real problem is to over torque your battery holder bolt


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I snapped mine on my '16 ST when I put a battery tender on it last fall, ordered 2 from Advance Auto parts to have one as a backup.
 
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