[Technoholic]

I'm entirely new to making auto sales on my own first time. The car I have is 2006 Ford Focus SES ZX4.

According to KBB with good condition, its value is $4500 if sold to private party. If trade in to dealership, $3000 or less.

CarMax has offered me $3000 for my car. The dealership I went recently is offering me $3000 minus the expenses for all the works they have to put in my car, so final offer for my car is $2,200.

The Focus I want is 2013 Focus SE Hatchback. I am actually looking for anything between 2012-2014 Focus Hatchback, with reasonably low mileages (20k or so) with good price.

Basically, I saw another Focus exactly the same priced at $13,900~ and they were selling this same one for the lesser miles but for $1000 more. I offered ifI was to trade today, would he be willing to price match to $13,900? He agreed, manager agreed. I walked out without closing the deal, they cannot put this car on hold. If I lose it, oh well, move on and live another day. But with you, I can learn more so I am hoping for you guys to help me out.

Is this a good deal? Again, this is my first time I'm in this sales world thing. In the offer paper I've attached, you will see the one $15k with all the options listed just right below it. They may not have 2nd set of key, I want 2nd set of key so it will cost $399 plus full tank if they fill it up. Plus warranty on top of the current warranty.

On the right side, you will see $12,200 out of the door is if when I make $2,000 down payment. Right now, I don't have the cash. If I walk out of the door with 15k, if this is a good deal, then I will refi with $2000 down payment.

Good idea? What do you think? Again, please understand that this is my first time I am in this world. Thanks.

 

[old greybeard]

You are sooo close to the price of a new 2014. Tremendous deals on leftover 14's would make me hesitate to buy used.
$399 for keys and a tank of gas? And the warranty is a ripoff.

 

[Technoholic]

I realize that it is close to brand new, the issue is that I'd be paying more monthly payment on brand new car, would I?

With my poor to fair credit situation, I am not sure if I can get new car, so I might be more likely to get used car with better chance? The only thing I expect is higher interest, but we don't know what it will look like when we put through the loan request.

And as for the warranty, its a ripoff, do I make a counteroffer or decline the warranty? I'd prefer to get the most out of a warranty if possible.

Any help is appreciated.

 

[zhent]

Take your Carmax quote in to Henna Chevy on I35. They'll give you $3500 for the current car.

As for buying a leftover 2014 vs. buying used... Your interest rate will be better on the new car vs the used one. That could make a difference. I just bought my 14 from MacHaik in Georgetown because Leif Johnson doesn't stock 5-speed cars...

 

[zhent]

Oh, and yeah, decline the warranty, and tell them that if keys and gas cost that much to give you the car without the gas. Keys are part of the car, not an option...

 

[Technoholic]

Ok, one of the things I've learned is not to ask for the monthly payment I want for the car.

So if I was to seek for brand new leftover of 2014 Focus, and the offer we come to an agreement, I will see the monthly payment there. If it is out of my range what I want it to be, it won't be an issue to see what kinds of offer I will see if I look at used 2012-2014 Focus?

If I was to take new 2014 Focus, how do I work out a good deal? What are the key tips right off the bat I should know?

 

[old greybeard]

Use Truecar.com

 

[ViperThreat]

Sounds like typical dealer tactics. You can definitely get a better deal by shopping around.

Make sure to pit dealers against eachother. Show them what eachother is offering and ask them to beat their competitors offer.

 

[Technoholic]

Problem is there are 5 dealership that works together in Austin, and they are all under www.iwanttobuyused.com. I'm not so sure if it's possible to find deals. That's for used cars.

I'm looking around on Truecar.com right now, hoping to find what I like.. Then from there, I guess I will know more.

I also made a loan request through Wells Fargo, see what they can offer me, whether if I will be approved or not. I have Wells Fargo banking account, so I thought it might be easier. I'm shopping around, k. lol

 

[BeastMD]

Holy cow thats a rip off in my opinion. I got a my warranty that covers me for more than double the time and less than half what they are gouging you for. You'd be better off with a new 2014 for sure. If you want a warranty dont buy from them you can buy one online much cheaper.

That -675 for inspection and stuff on your trade is silly too, they are playing games. Thier inspection and detail would cost them almost nothing. Plus they probably wont even keep your car to sell they will probably push it out to auction so they wont do any of that anyway.

That OTD thing is bullcrap too. Its not 12,177 out the door cause they are counting your undervalued trade in but that 2200 is YOUR MONEY.

Gosh I hate dealers.

 

[Technoholic]

I'm looking at 2014 Focus SE hatchback for $14,579, internet price. It's manual, has fog light lamps, just what I like.

Truecar doesn't even seems necessary?

And to clarify that $12,177 is if I put $2,000 down payment on top of trade in of $2,200.

 

[BeastMD]

Did a quick build your own on Ford.com and for a similar car starting MSRP is about $19,000. If you get full value for your trade that drops your cost to $16,000. You should be able to talk them down to $14,500 or lower if you play hard. Financing rate should be lower on the car too if you buy new. For 60 months with 4% would be about $280 a month.

 

[Technoholic]

$280? Then why does the online payment calculator shows about $100 in difference?

 

[BeastMD]

I'm looking at 2014 Focus SE hatchback for $14,579, internet price. It's manual, has fog light lamps, just what I like.

Truecar doesn't even seems necessary?

And to clarify that $12,177 is if I put $2,000 down payment on top of trade in of $2,200.

Truecar can help it gives you an OK idea of price, and that seems like the price I said. You just have to be REALLY careful that they dont add any BS, like warranty, undercoating, seat stainguard, dent repair, extra miscellaneous other fees and BS to the price. And like I said that who inspection/detail fee for your trade is complete and utter crap.

When I traded my Xterra in when I bought mine, I tracked the VIN for a while and it went through various dealers and auction houses that included pictures and they DID NOT TOUCH ANYTHING, except for removing my mats and giving it a quick wash/vacuum. The was was so poor you could see some of the dirt left over from when I had it. They didnt even bother to replace the rear wiper that was had the blade falling off.

 

[BeastMD]

$280? Then why does the online payment calculator shows about $100 in difference?

Is it for 60 months?

For 14,500 I get 280 and some change with 5% sales tax and 4% interest.

 

[Technoholic]

Ok, I will play hardball regarding to my car unless I get it done for $3,500 at Henna Chevy as mentioned.

Is it for 60 months?

Yes. See attached. The $4,000 is rough estimate. The $14,579 is obviously probably before TTL fees. Even if I add $1,000 to the purchase price, there's not much difference.

To be more specific, this is the one I am interested at, and that is where I am playing with payment calculator: http://www.machaikfl.com/inventory-details/2014/Ford/Focus/1FADP3K23EL463789

Any longer I wait, or someone here sees this deal and takes it, and I miss out then oh well, there's always other ones.

 

[BeastMD]

Ok, I will play hardball regarding to my car unless I get it done for $3,500 at Henna Chevy as mentioned.

Yes. See attached. The $4,000 is rough estimate. The $14,579 is obviously probably before TTL fees. Even if I add $1,000 to the purchase price, there's not much difference.

To be more specific, this is the one I am interested at, and that is where I am playing with payment calculator: http://www.machaikfl.com/inventory-details/2014/Ford/Focus/1FADP3K23EL463789

Any longer I wait, or someone here sees this deal and takes it, and I miss out then oh well, there's always other ones.

I was just calculating without the trade and down payment.

 

[Technoholic]

Ok, I feel better, lol.

Ok, this gray Focus. There is a blue candy hatchback with winter package added (it's the only difference anyway). Or maybe if I go for a silver one. They cost significantly more than this gray Focus.

Would I have an issue for asking them to drop the price to $14,580? It would be a push to ask them to drop about $1000.

 

[Joeywhat]

1) Focus on the price first, payment later. Figure out the total cost with the dealer, figure out your payments with your lender.
2) Walk into the dealer knowing EXACTLY what you want. Have an idea of all the colors and options that you are OK, and don't stray from it (i.e., don't let them add extra crap)
3) Make sure no extra charges are added on. You likely won't want or need any dealer added extras.
4) Have a rough price in mind for the vehicle you want, and what you want on your trade in. If they can't get there, walk out.
5) Actually be willing to walk out of the deal doesn't satisfy you.

Also see if you can get X plan pricing, it can be easy to come by in some states. It looks like Ford Credit is offering 0% for 72 months as well.

Negotiating with dealers isn't always easy, and do realize that not all are willing to deal. Set your price, if they don't want to go with it then either walk out or accept what they offer. If you shop around a bit, though, you'll find a good deal somewhere, especially if you're willing to travel a bit.

If buying a used car make sure it is in advertised condition with no accidents or issues that need to be addressed.

 

[Technoholic]

I also realized that my father works at Ford in PA. I can have the D plan too. Would it help to push the price even further down after all the savings and rebates?

Like the gray Focus I posted is $14,579, would the D plan still apply to that, drive the price down even further?