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Discussion Starter #1
Started up my daughters 2.0L for the first time today after a rebuild. The motor was rebuilt by a professional shop that has been around this area for around 30+ years. Upon initial start up and running approx. 10 minutes I noticed the catalytic converter was cherry red.

I immediately shut down the engine. I removed all the spark plugs and found that #4 plug was wet. So from here I tested for fire at the spark plug and found the I had fire at all 4 plugs. I rechecked plug gaps, checked the plug wires. All checked ok.

I once again started the motor and still have a bad miss. There are no check lights on at all.

By the way I installed new plugs, egr valve and pcv valve, thermostat.

From all I have read a red hot catalytic converter is caused by unburnt fuel? Is this correct? Could I have a plugged catalytic converter, that would make the engine run rough? Could I drop the cat and start the engine for a short time without damaging anything? Or remove the O2 sensor before the cat and see if the engine smooths out?

Does anyone have any recommendations or any other checks or tests.

Thanks all,
Kenny
 

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Yes to the unburnt fuel causing the CAT to heat up.

First test is a compression check.

A stuck open injector could be a cause for too much fuel in that cylinder so it doesn't fire, NOT a problem I've seen posted the last half dozen years on this site. (seen too rich, but not to the point of not firing)
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Just did another check on fire from the coil pack. My neighbor loaned me his old Sears Ignition Tester(mdl:244.2186) and its range is from 0-30 kilovolts. on #3 it bounced up to around 10KV and all the other three barely bounced off of 0. I did this twice and got the same results.

Also did a ohms check:
Primary .8 ohms
Secondary 1 & 4 = 10.15 ohms
2 & 3 = 10.35 ohms

Kenny
 

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Good to see those compression numbers, like to rule out mechanical problems at the start.

Ohms on the coil look good, still doesn't rule it out completely. If you see any cracking of the coil that's a common sign on these of going bad.

You can test the wire resistance as well if you want, prob. at least one bad from what you saw.

If you find wires vary a lot or just plain worn in spots you can try a set of those first if the coil looks perfect. And make sure the plug that wasn't firing is clean, wouldn't want to chase your tail too much if that one is fouled out.

Good thing is that with both pairs doing something the wiring & electronics going to the coil should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sailor,

I appreciate your help and responses.
I read a lot today about the ignition coil in these cars.
And one thing I learned is nothing is for certain with these coils.
I have read stories where guys bench test these these things and they are within spec only to replace with new and their problems are solved.
So on that note I ordered a new one from an online source.
I hope to have it by Friday or Saturday.
Once I get it and install it I will respond back.

Thanks,
Kenny
 

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Agreed

I've seen the same reports here, and a single coil within the set can not function right while still looking good in the static test.

Wish your problem was simpler, like the member who just changed wires without keeping the locations the same & now it won't start.
 

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The coils are waste spark type meaning if one in the pair shorts across the porcelain to not make full volts then the other half of the pair is flawed too. You can get spark on a plug that is wet and it then shorts across the side under compression pressure to misfire. If wet the plug is not generally reliable.

Need to check plug wires too, no more than 5000 ohm per foot of wire length.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sailor,

Well I received my coil pack today and installed it. I am glad to say the car fired right up and ran smooth, no missing. Thanks for responses and help. I am happy with the way it is running.

Thanks,
Kenny
 
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