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Discussion Starter #1
So, I did a bunch of stuff today. Replaced a bad driver cv (it fell out in pieces), new stereo, and finally the lower prothane inserts. I do have to ask though, does anyone els have a hell of a time putting the damn lower dog one back in? It kicks my ass every time.


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Discussion Starter #3
Definitely. Got the frame bolt in, engine bolt won’t align, loosen frame, nothing, remove frame, engine in, frame won’t align. Ugh. Took almost an hour. Never again. However, installing the prothane inserts was very simple and quick. Two good sacks with a hammer and the rubber cane out, pressed in prothane with bench vice and a socket, done. Took like 10 minutes. It is very nice and smooth on the shifting now, huge difference over a stock NEW rubber mount. But, I could probably attribute it a lot to the new cv as well, it was toasted, no boots left, barely any grease, it was done for a while ago.


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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks man. But, just when I think it’s finally doing great, it slaps me in the face. Driver side outer door handle works intermittently as of this moment. Just started today, went to head home after meeting the mrs and friends for tacos, can’t get in, hit the unlock on the fob and the passenger unlocks, but the driver goes click click click and won’t unlock. So, crawled in through the passenger side to find out I can push the lock button manually inside and the inner handle and outer both work, kind of. The outer opens the door on the last 1/32 of its pull. Ugh.


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Discussion Starter #6
Got a new issue, or maybe not?

I am going to post up to pictures, the first one is engine temp read out. Not sure if it’s in Fahrenheit or Celsius. The second picture is what I get under what should be coolant temperature. It seems to run OK on the road and not boiling over, and the reason for changing all this out is my heater was not working. That said the heater now works and it’s pretty hot which is good, but I have no clue at what temperature the coolant actually is. Part changed was t-stat housing and t-stat. 50/50’d concentrate put back in.




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Discussion Starter #7
Sorry. Pics got reversed. Engine temp is 107C, what should be coolant temp reads OBDC


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Discussion Starter #8
New exhaust, trans mount and blower motor with wheel all cane in today. The exhaust, I intentionally bought a cheap exhaust, it has 2.25” piping and a crappy muffler. But, the bends are all correct, I’ll be heading to the parts houses Monday after work to get a muffler that will have good flow, but not sound ricey. What I was thinking, and insight is welcome, is to get a magnaflow 6” round, 14” long to replace this crappy muffler, and adding the short 12” cherry bomb in place of the resonator up further. My logic says this will quiet it down while still being free flowing. What do you guys think? All in I will have about $200 total invested in the cat back and I believe have a sound I wanted. I almost bought the cat back from magnaflow, but, to get this piping and the magnaflow muffler is going to cost me $190, and I won’t be cutting a magnaflow to install a second “muffler”. So in turn, I’m not hacking up a $500 exhaust, but rather a $120 exhaust.


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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I guess it could be called an experiment. From what I have seen and heard, even the magnaflow is too loud for my taste. So it’s experimenting in having a free flowing exhaust, but not much louder than stock.


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