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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had a friend do the blasting for cheap, and I was planning on powdercoating, but being between jobs and moving at the end of the month,
it just wasn't in the budget...
So I used Tremclad Pro Primer and Pro Gloss Black enamel...1 can of primer and 3 cans of the black gave me two solid coats.
Just by seeing this stuff tack up and dry, it really seems like it's going to be a durable, solid finish....much better than the factory 'misting'.

Primed...



One coat applied...



Control arms...







Tomorrow I'll start the assembly with a full Prothane bushing kit!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks...can't wait til it's assembled and in the car.
Waiting on RS rear spindles/rotors though...
 

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Tremclad FTW! [giddy] bet I'm the only yank on here that knows what that is.

You'll have no problems with that stuff holding up. I used the US version on parts of my car and haven't had any issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Tremclad FTW! [giddy] bet I'm the only yank on here that knows what that is.

You'll have no problems with that stuff holding up. I used the US version on parts of my car and haven't had any issues.
Ha! Good to know about the durability...
Didn't know if was a Canadian-only branded paint. :)
 

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Shiny Metal Titanium
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awesome! that should hold up pretty well

how difficult is it to remove and reinstall the rear subframe? I might consider picking up one with the swaybar attachment points
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Considering the age of my car, and that it's been thru a bunch of Canadian winters, I'm really glad I'm now at the point I am now with it!
Most of mounting bolts pass into the chassis and thru, and are exposed to the elements on the far side of the welded nuts...so working that portion of the bolts out thru the thread area was CRAZY. I thought for sure something was going to break!
Turns out, it was my back!
Good thing the mounting bolts are high-strength...
Other than that, not too hard at all.
Don't get me started on the control arm hardware though! Welded nuts broken off, stripped heads, seized bushings...
I pretty much used a grinding and cutoff wheel to do the job.
LOTS of antiseize going on with re-assembly!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Finally assembled...well, 90% assembled. Evaporator box, rear sway and the toe-adjust washers for the LCA need to be put in (forgot them at the garage. Left outer LCA hardware loose for spring install.









 

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Aurelius Pardus
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I agree it does....... and yeah not gonna lie I came here to see what the subframe looks like so I can kinda figure out what goes where for an axle haha.

BUT great work so...... yeah.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ha! Thinking RWD?
I was eyeing a Lincoln LS rear end once...nice, multilink rear end...but probably too wide.
 

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Aurelius Pardus
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yeah you get a rep point lol.... I'm trying something new. I want to use the upper and lower spring cups (I think I will have to push the top one up a few inches, but not 100% sure on how to measure that yet. probably height of axle tube or something) and then mount the one from the lower control arm (cut so its just round) to the top of the axle tubes, and make a bracket to mount the stock shocks to the axle as well. Got the idea from the car the axle I have now came from. lol. That way I use stock springs and shocks. (well in my case frpp)

but yeah I couldn't find any good assembled subframe pictures.....the primered one shows all the holes too [hihi]
 
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