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Discussion Starter #1
Before someone says use the search function, I have and obviously haven't found the answers I've been looking for. so...

I have a 2.0 Duratec with the FSWerks turbo kit with the Garrett GT28RS turbo and JDM fmic, pro tuned by a local shop using the SCT X4 ECU flasher. The motor has 93000 miles and its a daily driver on stock internals. I am in the process of buying a new (to me) motor and building it up to eventually swap out. SHOULD I go with another 2.0 duratec or could I go with a 2.3L and have the motor mounts and trany match up without heavy fab?

List of parts on this motor:
JDM fmic
fswerks turbo kit
garrett gt28rs
internal wastegate actuator
cast turbo manifold
stainless steel down pipe with integrated flex and o2 sensor fitting
42lbs Bosch fuel injectors
waterline kit
stainless steel braided oil drain line
Bosch diverter valve
custom maf housing
itg maxogen air filter
walbro fuel pump
exedy clutch

POSSIBLE NEW PARTS INTO NEW MOTOR:
Weisco pistons
Brian Crower Rods
SUGGESTIONS ON crank shaft, valves, valve seats, cams...?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok awesome. Less money on parts... Not really looking for specific numbers but would like to push reliably around 12-15psi. Do you think the trani will hold up around there? I've also decided to go with the 2.0 from what I hear it's a better motor to boost. True?
 

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Not true , If it were me I would build the 2.5 short block with the 2.3 head , it isnt going to cost a lot more but the TQ will be much better

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Cool deal. Thanks for all the input I really appreciate it. Do you know of anyone selling the short block and the 23 head by chance?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
My only thee question about tuning is would the sensors be the same as what's in the 2.0? Or would I have to get another sct programmer or ecu?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok. Thanks. For piston compression ratio what should i be looking for? The lower the better? I believe the options I have are 9.87:1 and 7.9:1
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I've got pistons, rods, rod bearings, and valve springs. I'm looking for around 300hp. Does anyone have any other suggestions for parts to throw into the motor to keep it reliable?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hey Tom, I was wondering about the stock fuel system/pump and boost a pumps... I am pretty sure (although I haven't looked) that the pump in my car is the stock one. I'm on 42lbs injectors now, but was thinking of bumping up to the 60lbs Siemens ones if I want to actually hit ~300whp. What are your thoughts on injectors and the boost a pump. I also saw that you had some input on the stock return system. What would I need to improve/replace with regards to the stock return system?
 

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Yes I would do the 60lb , I would add the B-A-P and change the fuel filter and get it up and running and see how far with boost you can go before thinking about adding a return fuel system
The stock fuel system is not a return fuel system as most know it

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Okay thanks. What exactly is and does a return system do then? Additionally, how important would getting the motor and all the rotating parts balanced? It's all stripped right now and I'll be reassembling the rods and Pistons next. Should I put the flywheel assembly back on too and leave the oil pan off and take it into the machine shop to have them balance everything before moving forward? If I don't what would the consequences be?
 

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Its always best to balance the rotating assy

You want to take the Fly why but DO NOT balance it to the rotating assy balance it neutral meaning by it self that way if you ever have to change the fly why it isnt balanced to match the crank , same with the crank pulley

All you have to take for balancing is 4 pistons , 4 rods , crank 1 set of rings , 1 set of rod bearing, they dont need the block

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The reason why I asked about taking the block in with the crank was because I don't have a replacement main bearing seal and was told if I take the crank out id need a new one...? Thanks for the info on the flywheel and crank pulley I'll get that stuff together today
 

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The crank has to be out of the block to balance it , you should change the rear seal and at least check all the main bearings

With out removing all this you cannot clean everything properly for reassembly

Tom
 
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