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Discussion Starter #1
Im wanting to install 2 Rockford fosgate stage 3 subs they are 500 watts RMS and plan on using a RF T10001bd to push them im not wanting to melt my wires or fry my altinator.... I was looking at this Cap Killer and they are supposed to work good at least thats what the guy at the audio shop said im just looking for some imput before i decide to lay down the dough
 

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I'm quite the newb here but as I've been doing my own researching I don't think melted wires is going to be an issue as long as you use the proper size wires and, I keep hearing people say that "caps" are not the way to go your better of getting a high output alternator.

Also, not that it will hurt anything but those subs will draw 1000w RMS that Amp only puts out 500w RMS... Again I'm still a newb so wait for someone else to pipe in... But that's how I have came to understand things...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yes 500 watts at 4 ohms

* 500 W x 1 @ 4 Ohms RMS
* 750 W x 1 @ 2 Ohms RMS
* 1000 W x 1 @ 1 Ohms RMS
* Total power 1000 Watts
* Bridgeable: Master Sync, Power Sync, (bd-sync2)
* Crossover: LP 32-250Hz 24dB per Octave, Subsonic Filter 28Hz
* Tone controls: Bass Control, 0 to 18 dB @ 35-70 Hz
* Signal input: Low level - , Quantity - 1, Type - RCA(pr)
* Line output: 1 RCA(pr)
* Phase control: 0/180 degrees
* Power input: Connector - Block, Wire gauge - 1/0 AWG
* Speaker output: Block
* Heatsink: Type -Cast, Cooling -Fan Cooled
* Remote control: Included, Type - Wired, Controls - Bass
* Class B/D
* Dimensions 2.6 X 12.8 X 18 (inches)

1000w at 1 ohm when you have a 4 ohm dual voice coil subs you can wire them in series and that will run the sub at 2 ohm
 

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a second battery would probably be the best bet on that one, unless you wanna drop around $200 for a high-output alt....the amp's rms wattage is 1000w at 2 ohms i think, so yer gonna be drawin a lot of current no matter what with those subs. The only option with a cap would be a large farad cap upwards of at least 10 farads...that amp will drain a 1 farad cap in a heartbeat, so you'll need a larger bank to supply the peak bursts. Good luck man
EDIT: ok so just saw the specs....you've got the dual 4 subs right?? its gonna be difficult to match the two...if you went 1 ohm you'd be throwin the subs way too much power, if you went 4 ohm series not enough so either way they wont match perfect...the best best would be to port the box and run the sub's coils series then parallel at the amp fer a 4 ohm load...each sub will be getting about 250w rms which isnt bad...unless the subs have different coil configs.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
how do you figure i would push to much power when at 1 ohm the amp puts out 1000 watts rms??? the stage 3's are 500 watts rms each so wouldent that be just right???
 

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lYxFizzyl said:

1000w at 1 ohm when you have a 4 ohm dual voice coil subs you can wire them in series and that will run the sub at 2 ohm
actually you would have to wire them in parallel to run them in one ohm, same thing i'm doing with my subs.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/wiring.php

should work fine like that though, you can always turn down the amp if you're worried about blowing the sub
 

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Discussion Starter #7
213slayer666 said:
actually you would have to wire them in parallel to run them in one ohm, same thing i'm doing with my subs.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/wiring.php

should work fine like that though, you can always turn down the amp if you're worried about blowing the sub
im not so much worried about blowing the subs power does not blow subs its the distortion that blows them... what i am worried about is having to upgrade my alternator
 

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i'm running a ed nine.1 at 1 ohm, 1200w rms. i get some dimming but i still have a udp on, before that i had two sony amps running at 500w each and my alternator is still going.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
alright thanks :) your not running a cap or a battery are you??? did you see that Kinetic battery? i put a link in the first post that explains the battery
 

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no cap, just using one battery in my car, optima red top.

i think my red top puts out more amps than the kinetic one does, and it only cost me $120
 

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those subs and that amp are a perfect combination.. they are 500W each and the amp puts out 1000W @ 1 ohm. You should be fine.

I wouldn't get a cap, seems like a waste if your alternator cant recharge it. I especially would stay away from a large 10+ farad cap, its just going to strain your alt every time it charges.

I would start with a good quality deep cycle battery, like a yellow top or a stinger. I would also upgrade the charging/ground wires with 0 gauge wire (big 3).

After doing those things if you are seeing significant drops in voltage ( > 12V with car running), i would then look at a ho alt. I'm not sure how much current those amps really pull, but its got a fuse rating of 150 amps... so its possible a HO alt is your best option...depending on your listening habits.. how long and how hard you push your system.

I wouldn't risk voltage drops below 12V.. why put the stress on the already few year old alt.. and also stress the power supply in the amp.. shit really if it was me i wouldn't want voltage drops below 13.. but im cautious
 

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ditto

wire each sub in parallel for a 2 ohm load per sub, then both subs together in parallel to the amp for a final 1 ohm load

Batteries are used when the car is off.
Alternators are used when the car is running.

1) Big3 Upgrade first (see FAQ)
2) If problems still occur, then look into an Alt upgrade, but I doubt you'll need to.

Be sure to use 1/0ga wire for the Big3 and the Power and Ground amp runs.
 
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