[Saabafoo]

You rubbed the indicators off with 38 pounds of pressure? Are you sure your psi stick is still good?


Also wrc fan has the best race winning formula but unless you've got autox down really well you won't live to its full potential and for DD that would kill your back.

Somewhere around that psi, yes. The indicators on these tires are higher than on other tires, I have noticed. Pretty sure stick is good, plan is to get a better gauge for next season anyway.

Yeah, I know his setup is nice. Races and yellows have been touted as a very good AX setup for years here. While I know that the yellows are good for the races, I'm just not sold on them from a quality POV.

 

[ecugrad]

While I know that the yellows are good for the races, I'm just not sold on them from a quality POV.

Make no mistake, Koni makes a good product with EXCELLENT support. I just don't think their strut inserts are as robust as Bilsteins

 

[iminhell]

I'd run a narrower tire.
A little stretch is actually good. Think about what the sidewall does under hard load.
A straight sidewall will mushroom, blistering the edge.
A stretched tire will straighten up, holding more contact area and reducing the tire temps.

IMO


Open dif and understeer aren't helping you at all though.

 

[Saabafoo]

A narrower tire than I am running right now, or a narrower tire than I ran during the season? AX tire=205/45/17, Current all season=215/45/17. The 205 had a slight stretch to them, the 215 is straight up.

 

[iminhell]

Huh. A 205 should be about perfect.
More camber will help as will a stiffer sidewall, 40 series or a higher load rating on the tire ... but the 205's you had should be a 1,235# rating. Which is about as high as you'll find. The 40 series drops to 992#, so that's a bad move there.
So camber it is then. Have to get some more in there.

I have Dom's LCA's (updated ones) and I like them. I can dial in as much camber as I want. Sitting at ~-2* all around. Seems to work well for me.
Not sure if Gold Coast ever got the camber plates done but that would be a shortcut way to get some adjustment.
Also, poly front bushings will really liven the steering up. The mushy rubber is just junk IMO.

My other tires are Comp II's (205-45/16) and I didn't blister the sides at all. I can sat that they didn't feel as stable as I thought they should though. The Dunlops I had on my 17's (DZ101's) and the shitty Chinese tires I have on now feel much more stable.
I though the BFG's had great straight line grip. But cornering they did lack something. They stuck, but it almost felt like the tire rolled more.

This --> http://www.discounttiredirect.com/d....do&fl=&pc=19342&counter=0&ar=40&rd=17&cs=205
is what I'm on right now. TBH, it's probably one of the best tires for the money I've seen. I don't have a single complaint and they take corners VERY well ... Paladin can vouch for that.


Dunno if you've ever seen what a tire goes through on the track but this video is a pretty good watch:

 

[slow_solo_focus]

which front bushings are you referring to?

also interesting video

 

[iminhell]

All of them.

 

[slow_solo_focus]

okay.... haha will look into

 

[Paladin]

i should point out all my bushings are old as sin and probably siezed. johns car is faster than mine anyhow.... it was my understanding if you roll onto those triangles and no further its at the right pressure. letting you use all of the tire....

 

[Saabafoo]

it was my understanding if you roll onto those triangles and no further its at the right pressure. letting you use all of the tire....

Yeah. That's how I see it as well. It would be better if I used a pyrometer, but I don't have one.

Iminhell, are the control arm bushings the only ones that can be replaced with poly up front?

Don't know what I'm going to do yet for next season. More than likely I'll be in STF and try and find some 15x7.5 wheels and run 225/45/15, unless Massive finishes their brake kit by then.

 

[sailor]

Sway bar bushings are the only other ones up front.

 

[Saabafoo]

Thought so. Thanks.

 

[Saabafoo]

So I picked up some used Koni Sports with unknown history. How can I tell if they need a rebuild or not?

 

[ecugrad]

Leaking oil is the biggest indicator of needing a rebuild.

 

[Saabafoo]

If they are not leaking, that doesnt mean they don't need a rebuild right?

I'm also thinking about converting them to coilovers, but don't know what to do for the rears. Thoughts?

 

[felixthecat]

Try a pr of CFM tubular arms. Lighter, stronger, adjustable & has more bite. You running poly dsm/psm's? & of course a diff will make a difference as you know.

 

[Saabafoo]

It's 400 bones for those arms. I can't justify the cost of them. OEM mounts at the moment. Need to change those but the PSM is stupid expensive. I would like a diff but I'm not sure which class I want to end up in yet.

 

[Saabafoo]

WRC_Fan, how long have you used your current Koni Yellows? I'm trying to get a feel for how long they last before needing a rebuild.

 

[wrc_fan]

Mine were used when I bought them, and I put maybe 8K miles on them after that.

I know of another guy who was running the same setup and had his konis revalved to match the HR race springs. He said he was happy with the improvement.

 

[Saabafoo]

Thanks for the response. The reason I ask is I don't know the history of my dampers and would like to just install them and be done, but at the same time I want to do it right the first time. Also, it would be cheaper to buy new Konis than to have my current ones rebuilt.

The people I spoke to said that OTS konis were good to handle the race springs. Having them revalved specifically for the race springs provided a noticeable difference?

My konis aren't leaking so should I just install them as is?