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Few Different Questions

4751 Views 43 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Saabafoo
Hi All,

I have a few different things that I need clarification on, as the title would suggest. So first, some background. Car is an 07 ZX4 SE, has Steeda Sport springs (lol), KYB AGX's, 18mm front ASB, and the Steeda 21mm rear ASB kit. The tires I used for the majority of the season were the BFG Sport Comp II in 205/45/17. Swapped tires front to rear half way through the season.

So after the season ends I go to get my tires dismounted and remounted onto the other side of the car because the shoulders of my tires were pretty lunched. While the peoples are doing this they discover that the shoulders are so worn that there are clear indications that layer separation is imminent and inform me of the problem. So I'm forced to buy new tires only after 4K miles and 3\4 of a season of AX. Since it's getting into the cold season I purchase some all-seasons in 215/45/17.

My first question is: what do I need to do to the car (and probably my technique) to not have a repeat of massive tire shoulder destruction?

I noticed pretty early on that my suspension was pretty soft for AX duty, and after putting on the 215's, I'm getting a lot of tire rubbage in the front over bumps and during any semblance of sporty cornering. In order to combat the rubbage, I'm going to get a stiffer suspension setup, but need to know that whatever I get eliminates my tires rubbing my fenders in all but the most heinous bumps.

My second question is: what suspension setup do you all recommend? I have a couple in mind, but I'll wait to voice those after you all voice your advice and suggestions. I think that's everything. Apologies for the longish post.

Thank you for you much needed assistance.

Justin
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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I've read a few different rates for the springs. Only way to know for sure would be to contact Steeda, but seeing as I'm going to something better I don't care anymore.

Max psi for the tires I was running 51. I was running anywhere from 42-47 on the front throughout the season. 37-40 on the rear.

My plan right now is H&R coilovers, roll front fenders, and maybe poly control arm bushings. However this is subject to change depending on community input.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'd rather set my suspension with springs/spring rates first (for the most part), then tune with sway bars.

Right now I'm between H&R coilvers with either a 24 or 25 mm rear bar, or koni yellows with H&R Race springs and keep my current bar.

Anyone have any input between these two setups? Or a suggestion for another option I haven't thought of?

Thank you everyone, your feedback is very much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Understood on the camber plates. What about increasing positive caster?

Currently on KYB AGX's, which I feel are less than adequate.

I agree with you on lowering spring spring rates. In the research I've done, I have read concerns that Koni Sports with H&R race springs don't give enough travel, or something like that. Plus I've read of more than a few people having quality issues with the koni's. I assume this setup is what you have? How has it faired for you thus far? Have you driven a focus with H&R coilovers to compare to the race springs and yellows?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
My understanding was that the increase in tire pressure would stiffen up the sidewalls of the tire. All of the experienced people who I AX with suggested running higher pressures to alleviate my shoulder wear.

Also, running those pressures did not kill my contact patch. At least that's how it felt anyway. Other than my shoulder problems, I felt that the tires handled pretty well, but this was my first venture in the world of summer tires. It didn't feel as if I had massive amounts of understeer, just a bit, and I didn't have much wheelspin either.

If I remember correctly, I did my first event or two with the pressures at the level that you run, somewhere around 35-38. I rubbed the triangle indicators off of the sidewalls that first weekend, so higher pressures it was. Although as evidenced by this thread, those higher pressures did not save the tires.

Thanks for the tip. I bent that tab on the drivers side halfway through the season, but could get the passenger side for some reason.
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
You rubbed the indicators off with 38 pounds of pressure? Are you sure your psi stick is still good?


Also wrc fan has the best race winning formula but unless you've got autox down really well you won't live to its full potential and for DD that would kill your back.
Somewhere around that psi, yes. The indicators on these tires are higher than on other tires, I have noticed. Pretty sure stick is good, plan is to get a better gauge for next season anyway.

Yeah, I know his setup is nice. Races and yellows have been touted as a very good AX setup for years here. While I know that the yellows are good for the races, I'm just not sold on them from a quality POV.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
A narrower tire than I am running right now, or a narrower tire than I ran during the season? AX tire=205/45/17, Current all season=215/45/17. The 205 had a slight stretch to them, the 215 is straight up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
it was my understanding if you roll onto those triangles and no further its at the right pressure. letting you use all of the tire....
Yeah. That's how I see it as well. It would be better if I used a pyrometer, but I don't have one.

Iminhell, are the control arm bushings the only ones that can be replaced with poly up front?

Don't know what I'm going to do yet for next season. More than likely I'll be in STF and try and find some 15x7.5 wheels and run 225/45/15, unless Massive finishes their brake kit by then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
If they are not leaking, that doesnt mean they don't need a rebuild right?

I'm also thinking about converting them to coilovers, but don't know what to do for the rears. Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
It's 400 bones for those arms. I can't justify the cost of them. OEM mounts at the moment. Need to change those but the PSM is stupid expensive. I would like a diff but I'm not sure which class I want to end up in yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Thanks for the response. The reason I ask is I don't know the history of my dampers and would like to just install them and be done, but at the same time I want to do it right the first time. Also, it would be cheaper to buy new Konis than to have my current ones rebuilt.

The people I spoke to said that OTS konis were good to handle the race springs. Having them revalved specifically for the race springs provided a noticeable difference?

My konis aren't leaking so should I just install them as is?
 
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