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Discussion Starter #1
You may recall the "overheating at idle thread" The good news is I most likely found out why my fans werent turning.

Today, I took out my fan sensor, it comes directly out of the top of the fan assembly. Its the little plum-sized "box" in the pictures below. As you can see, the connectors are fried.

Also, the wiring that plugs into it is fried too. See pics below and look at the left side of that female connector. Its no longer a little slit for the male end its now a gaping round hole, haha.

Now my instincts say it would be best to replace the sensor or whatever the little "box" below is technically called. But as far as the wiring, do I have to replace that whole wiring assembly?? I think I do by the looks of it, is this a dealer item?? Thats what Im guessing....

any input would be appreciated.
 

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That would be the low speed fan resistor. It and the connector are available from the dealer. Fans on high when AC compressor is commanded on and by temp
The cooling fan motors low speed temperature operation is as follows:
2.0L Zetec
107°C (225°F) to 111°C (232°F) - low fan speed ON
104°C (220°F) to 107°C (224°F) - low fan speed OFF
The cooling fan motors high speed temperature operation is as follows:
2.0L Zetec
116°C (240°F) to 118°C (245°F) - high fan speed ON
107°C (225°F) to 111°C (232°F) - high fan speed OFF
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That would be the low speed fan resistor. It and the connector are available from the dealer. Fans on high when AC compressor is commanded on and by temp

The resister is available at places like Autozone. If you get it at the dealer its $200 because they wont just sell you the resister. You have to buy the entire fan shroud and assembly.

NO thanks!

I'll take the $25 one from Autozone OR try pulling the resister out of my old radiator for free. I believe its called a cooling fan switch. As far as the connector, to buy that whole wiring mess that pigtails into each fan, then back to the power supply, is probably pricey at the dealer as well. Instead, I'll go to a junkyard and simply clip that female connector off another ford that uses the same connector. I"m going to call Ford tomorrow and ask them what models/years use that same wiring. Then I'll simply cut mine off and splice the new one on.

I"ll save at LEAST $300 that way...haha let alone labor costs
 

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I just pulled the same plug out of the resistor today, and mines looks exactly like yours. My cooling fans were really weak for a while, but I haven't had any overheat issues (yet)..I wonder if this is a widespread problem (??).
 

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The resister is available at places like Autozone. If you get it at the dealer its $200 because they wont just sell you the resister. You have to buy the entire fan shroud and assembly.

NO thanks!

I'll take the $25 one from Autozone OR try pulling the resister out of my old radiator for free. I believe its called a cooling fan switch. As far as the connector, to buy that whole wiring mess that pigtails into each fan, then back to the power supply, is probably pricey at the dealer as well. Instead, I'll go to a junkyard and simply clip that female connector off another ford that uses the same connector. I"m going to call Ford tomorrow and ask them what models/years use that same wiring. Then I'll simply cut mine off and splice the new one on.

I"ll save at LEAST $300 that way...haha let alone labor costs
Ford now sells the resistor by it self and the connector with the 2 wire pigtails in it, also seperately. I will try to get part numbers and prices Monday for everyones info.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ford now sells the resistor by it self and the connector with the 2 wire pigtails in it, also seperately. I will try to get part numbers and prices Monday for everyones info.
Someone PM'd me that info today, I will post it below. I was going by what told by someone a few days ago that the dealer wouldnt sell the resister w/o the entire assembly...seems you are right and that's changed now. I'm still gonna try my luck with Autozone. I went there today and they supposedly carry the resistor but it was out of stock at the particular location. I"m gonna bring mine in and go to a different Autozone and make sure its an exact match before I buy it, but its only $24 there....and I can always take the one out of my old radiator, its probably intact as the front passenger side of my car was hit in the collision.

The wiring I will probably just clip off as I described in my earlier post and replace with the same connector off another Ford. The connectors to the fans themselves are fine, its just the one that is all fried up. NO sense blowing money on the whole wiring harness, which I'm sure is around $50 at Ford if I dont need it, but everyone's case is different.

Thank member ztecpower for the info below, ok:

The Part# For the Resistor F5RZ-8L603-AC

The Wiring harness Part# YS4Z-8C290-GB

What happens (Basically) Is the fan resistor fails (The LO fan speed side) And the fans don't activate untill the car is in the RED of your Temp guage, this happens so many times without you evan reolizing it that it burns up the Wiring harness as well with all those Sudden starts from a dead stop, which the harness wasn't designed for, thus burning out the wiring as well.

The parts should cost no more than 90.00 at the dealer for BOTH.
 

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I came up with
Resistor F5RZ-8L603-AC $46
wire 4U2Z-14S411-DA $43

This example for a 2002 zetec connector is exactly as in pics above later years these parts may change
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I came up with
Resistor F5RZ-8L603-AC $46
wire 4U2Z-14S411-DA $43

This example for a 2002 zetec connector is exactly as in pics above later years these parts may change

You are correct..just got off the phone w/Ford.

The part number I gave in my post, The Wiring harness Part# YS4Z-8C290-GB, is for the entire wiring assembly. That costs $90 and change. The part number you gave is for just the connector with about 8 inches of wiring. Then you'd splice that into your pigtail. That part at my dealer was $46 and change. Obviously, depending on the situation, unless your whole wiring assembly was melted and burnt out, you're better off with just the connect for half the price.

As far as the resistor, as I said, I'm gonna take mine outta my old radiator. Also gonna try some junkyards for the wiring first too..if I can clip that connector off of another focus it'll save me the $45. Money is money to me, haha.

But all of this is alot better than how it used to be at Ford..ie you had to buy the entire fan assembly to replace the resistor.

BTW, still looking into getting the resistor at Autozone....as I said, it was out of stock at the Autozone I went to yesterday. If its the same part and an exact fit, its only $24 instead of $45. But my first option will be the free one from my old radiator, then if that one's no good I'll move on from there...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm going to replace my connector and resistor on Saturday when I go home.

My next question is, what if that doesnt fix the problem? Where do I turn next??


Does the Zetec Engine have a tempature sending unit that "tells" the fans to come on? If so, where is it located? I'm hoping (fingers crossed) that my resister and wiring solve the problem, but if not, where is the temp sending unit located?? Thx
 

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overheating

i have had same problem as described above. i had to replace the wiring harness and the resistor also. cost me 96 at the dealer. my connector was damaged very bad. i'll post some pics in a few days
i had all the same problem that were described in the post. overheating at an idle and cooling down as i gave car throttle i know that sounds crazy but its true, it amazed me also. fan only did come on when after car went into red as posted above.
 

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lol, what are the odds... it being slow at my dealer i have been doing used cars. 2002 zx3 with 70k miles and it would only overheat at idle...

checked the relays, waited for them to click over and checked the fuses... all good, start pulling off the connectors and i remove the resistor. hot damn thats melted.

i'll be looking out for this more often whenever i work on a used foci...

cost 32 bucks for the resistor and 75 for the harness... and paid me 2.5 hrs :)
woot
 

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Yeah I have this exact same problem, I'll have to check mine soon. You know on ebay you can buy the whole assembly brand new with fans for not much more than $100. That seems like a better deal to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
lol, what are the odds... it being slow at my dealer i have been doing used cars. 2002 zx3 with 70k miles and it would only overheat at idle...

checked the relays, waited for them to click over and checked the fuses... all good, start pulling off the connectors and i remove the resistor. hot damn thats melted.

i'll be looking out for this more often whenever i work on a used foci...

cost 32 bucks for the resistor and 75 for the harness... and paid me 2.5 hrs :)
woot
I"m glad my misery could help so many out [drinking]

Its a confusing problem that doesnt make sense--until you find that resistor and check it out.

Seems to be a common problem, can ADMIN move it to the "how to" archive or something? I mean anyone with a problem could just search the site, but we know "newbies" dont usually start their diagnosis and join the site that way. They usually just post the problem like I did and wait for answers...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yeah I have this exact same problem, I'll have to check mine soon. You know on ebay you can buy the whole assembly brand new with fans for not much more than $100. That seems like a better deal to me.
Yea luckily I had access to free parts , or else it woudl have cost me around $95 at the dealer. The radiator was a replacement from my accident, it came out of a salvage. And my original radiator was damaged on the opposite side of there the resistor is. So my resistor and wiring from before the accident were juuuuuuuuuust fine.

And I will look, but I doubt that 'assembly" you saw on ebay has the resistor and wiring. Maybe the resistor, but not the entire wiring assembly. Probably not even the connector that goes into the resistor. Thats a $45 part alone! So replacing the whole assembly, even at that price, isnt really saving you squat.
 

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I"m glad my misery could help so many out [drinking]

Its a confusing problem that doesnt make sense--until you find that resistor and check it out.

Seems to be a common problem, can ADMIN move it to the "how to" archive or something? I mean anyone with a problem could just search the site, but we know "newbies" dont usually start their diagnosis and join the site that way. They usually just post the problem like I did and wait for answers...

lol, no offense man but it didn't help me out, i found the thread last night after i ordered my parts wondering if this was a known problem, but im sure others have been helped. should still be a sticky though
 

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You guys are awesome. I'm an old fart for this site (50) but know enough (and to stubborn to pay someone) to do my repairs. I had the whole resister and plug/harness issue and you guys walked me right through the fix just viewing other post. I would caution anyone that one of the part numbers supplied (#YS4Z-8C290-GB) is for the entire harness including all plugs for fans etc. It's not just the plug for the resister and a couple wires. This part number was $80.00 at the dealer. I still dont mind spending the money because you guys saved me a bundle. Thanks very much. Your all a huge help.
 

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I just pulled my radiator resistor while at the dealer (buying a resistor pack to repair the A/C blower fan), and I didn't see any burning/blistering/etc. Can anyone give a way to manually check your radiator resistor/coil? I don't think my low-speed fan is working.
 

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Amazingly, i'm in yet another club inside a club, while idling with the family at the BK drive-tru, i hear the fan clickin' and since i have nightmares from my ol' ProbeGT i instantly look at the temp gage and it is truly hitting redline.
I almost broke the AC buttons trying to bring the temp down. It took about 20 seconds but it finally went down to the happy middle point.
Later on i turned the test mode on while idling and i found out that how fast you can go from 93 to 120 celsius.
Checked the FF threads and then my connector..melted..dun-dun-duuun....
To be continued....
 

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I have this problem, for the second time. I had it fixed at the dealership the first time (it wasn't cheap). They showed me the burnt-up resistor, told me about the low-speed fan, etc. It worked great, but the overheating started again a year later. I manage to get around it by turning on the AC, or the heater.

My question is: Do I risk causing more damage to the car if I don't get the problem fixed? I don't ever let it overheat... I've gotten real good at anticipating when it's going to heat up.
 
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